2007 Gardening Columns

I have some drab spots in my garden right now and want to fill those areas with something that will add interest during the winter. What is a good choice?

Many gardens that look great in summer are flat and barren in the winter. One way to keep something attractive in the garden year-round is to plant species that have widely varying bloom times. By adding some ornamental grass you will give the garden something eye-catching in autumn that will hold its shape through the winter.

One species of ornamental grass that is popular in Yakima Valley gardens is Miscanthus sinensis, commonly known as maiden grass. There are many cultivars of M. sinensis, a plant native to varied habitats in Eastern Asia. There are several specimens of Miscanthus growing at the Yakima Area Arboretum in front of the Interpretive Center by the parking lot and at the east end of the Oriental Garden. Miscanthus is a low-maintenance, warm season, clump-forming grass that produces showy tassel-like plumes that appear in late summer. Most varieties grow well in Zone 5. Cultivar sizes grow anywhere from 3- to 10-feet in height and 2- to 6-feet in width. The larger varieties work great as a single specimen focal point in the yard. Miscanthus prefers full sun and is heat tolerant as long as adequate water is provided. It also tolerates a range of soil conditions. Because of its self-seeding habits, Miscanthus is considered an invasive species in Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern states, where moist, moderate winters are ideal for self-propagation. In Zone 5, the plant can be controlled quite easily and is not considered a problem. People who grow Miscanthus often leave the previous season's foliage and plumes standing upright until new growth appears in late spring. To control its spread, or to divide the plant, cut its foliage back to about 6-inches above the crown.

Here are a few varieties to consider:

M. sinensis "Gracillimus" - one of the oldest cultivars. Narrow leaf blades are complemented by rust-colored plumes that bloom late summer to frost. Reaches 7-feet in height.

M. sinensis "Blutenwunder" - a cultivar known as Blooming Wonder because of its prolific blooms first appearing in early August. Tall, up to 7-feet and stately, with wide green leaves. It is also one of the hardiest cultivars.

M. sinensis "Purpurascens" - known as flame grass. Grass blades are a striking reddish-orange in the fall. Color intensity is known to increase in regions with warm, sun-filled summers such as the Yakima Valley. An early bloomer, with a compact growth habit and medium height of about 5-feet tall.

M. sinensis "Zebrinuss" - known as zebra grass. Horizontal banding on wide creamy-yellow blades of grass that send up plumes in late September. Stunning when backlit by the sun. Reaches 8-feet tall.

M. sinensis "Strictus" - with its horizontal banding on wide blades of grass, porcupine grass is reminiscent of zebra grass, but it has a more upright growth habit and is more compact. Blooms in mid-September and reaches 9-feet tall.

M. sinensis "Adagio" - one of several compact varieties that grow no higher than 3-4 feet tall. Blooms in mid-August. A good specimen for containers.

For people who want to mix their grasses, another contender for Yakima Valley gardens is "switch grass", Pancium virgatum, a hardy perennial that is native to grasslands and prairies across a large swath of North America. Switch grass grows to about 4-feet tall. There are several cultivars that produce reddish grass blades at maturity. The "Rotstrahlbusch" variety is tinged with red all growing season while some of the others such as "Shenandoah" start out with green leaves that then turn red by mid to late summer. "Rotstrahlbusch" has an upright growing habit, while "Shenandoah" has a more cascading form. Both varieties send up wispy, burgundy colored seedheads.

There is at least one specimen of P. virgatum "Shenandoah" growing at the Yakima Area Arboretum, near the main parking lot. It is a plant that must be seen in autumn to truly appreciate its crimson glory.

 

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What to do in the January garden....

If you have a greenhouse, now is the time to repeat some of the chores you've probably already done outside, such as cleaning up plant debris, cleaning pots and tools, checking your irrigation system, washing the windows on a sunny day, painting and varnishing, and making a list of seeds and supplies you'll need next spring.

Depending on how much sun your greenhouse gets or whether you are willing to go to the extra expense of cranking up a heating system, you can start slow-growing vegetables from seed such as onions and leeks. By spring these will be hardy, disease-free transplants.

A sunny windowsill inside a home can often accomplish the same effect as a greenhouse or cold frame. A heating pad can give seedlings, or even houseplants that aren't doing well, enough warmth to thrive. Don't forget the light. While many houseplants thrive in indirect light, seedlings will need about 14-hours of light a day. Seedlings that receive too little light grow thin, tall and weak and rarely produce a viable specimen for transplanting in spring. Many indoor gardeners compensate for lack of sunlight with artificial light such as fluorescent lamps placed directly over the seedlings.

Give your houseplants some TLC. Spritz them with water and use a soft cloth to wipe off the leaves. Be wary of commercial leaf shines because they will clog leaf pores. Check for browning of leaf tips, this can be caused by overwatering or too much direct sunlight.

Don't forget winter flowers. Bulbs such as paperwhites and amaryllis are easy to force in winter because they don't require chilling time.

Recycle your Christmas tree, or better yet, post it outside and lace it with food for birds and other backyard varmints. Just make sure it is in a location that isn't a magnet for neighborhood cats. Birds will reward you for your effort by hanging around until the summer to provide natural insect control.

Now is a good time to make an application of dormant spray to help control over-wintering insect and disease problems. Aphid eggs, for example, survive through the winter, but a coating of dormant oil spray smothers them. Avoid spraying when temperatures are below freezing, when it is raining or when the wind is blowing. Always read the labels for garden chemicals and follow the instructions.

Pruning of most deciduous trees and shrubs can be done this month. But, don't prune spring-flowering plants such as azalea, blueberries, forsythia or spirea because you would be removing their spring flowers. It is best to prune these plants right after they've finished blooming.

Now is a good time to get your lawn mower tuned up and have its blades sharpened. Chances are there will be a shorter wait at the repair shop than during the spring rush when you could be out mowing the lawn. A sharp mower blade cuts the lawn evenly and prevents damage to grass blades.

Wander around your yard to see where the winter gray spots are. Future plantings of evergreens in these areas will give the garden more year-round appeal. Or, try some ornamental grass. Even after the grass turns brown when the temperatures drop, many varieties produce feathery plumes or reedy spikes that add visual interest to the winter garden. Just remember to tread lightly and try to avoid walking on the lawn when it is frozen. Too much foot traffic can damage grass blades and garden soil and that will require extra work to repair in the spring when you'd probably rather be sowing seeds and planting flowers.

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I want to keep my hand in gardening over the winter but it's too cold outside and my plants are dormant anyway. What can I do inside?

A little experimentation might be worth your time, especially if you live alone or the people you share a home with don't mind living in a plant laboratory. Try growing a pineapple purchased at the grocery store. Select a pineapple that has healthy green leaves and slice off the top about an inch below leaf growth. Place the top on its side for a couple of days to allow the cut portion to dry. Then, set the top in an 8-inch pot filled with potting mix. Place the pot in a warm place or on a heating pad and keep the soil moist. Keep the plant out of direct sunlight and fertilize it every six to eight weeks with an acidic fertilizer. Check the plant after about three months to see if it needs to be transplanted to a larger pot. After several months, a healthy pineapple plant will begin to develop new shoots from its base. When this occurs, you can cut off the parent plant or you can separate them and start additional plants. If you have a sunny window sill, try sowing some seeds. A heating pad that is waterproof will help with germination. Slow-growing vegetable such as onions and leeks can be given a head start now and by spring will be strong enough to transplant outside.

Or, start an herb garden in the kitchen to have fresh cuttings handy for cooking. Just remember that vegetables and herbs need a lot of light. To be successful you can't rely on the short periods of winter sunlight to produce strong, healthy plants. You will need to provide the right kind of artificial light and long periods of it. But plants need darkness too -- glucose production in most plants occurs at night. During photosynthesis, the Calvin cycle or dark reaction (meaning light independent), converts light energy and carbon dioxide into sugars also known as carbohydrates, which give plants their nutritional value.

Although the term "grow light" is used commercially for both incandescent and fluorescent bulbs, incandescent bulbs are not really effective for propagation because they produce a low color temperature and have a red-yellowish tone; natural daylight has a high color temperature and appears bluish. Incandescent lamps work just fine for highlighting an arrangement of houseplants, but they burn hot, so keep the bulb at least 24-inches from a plant to prevent scorching. There are many kinds of fluorescent lights available. They burn cool and are commonly used for propagation. The most important thing to remember when using fluorescent bulbs is proximity to the plant. For standard fluorescent bulbs, they should be placed about 4-inches above the seedlings. Technological advances have developed high-output fluorescent bulbs that produce a broader, more even light coverage. There also are compact fluorescents for small growing spaces.

A third type of grow light is metal halide, which sends a strong white light that closely resembles natural sunlight. Metal halides tend to produce shorter, more compact plants that look almost identical to plants grown outside. There is a cost tradeoff though. A single metal halide light fixture can cost more than an entire indoor growing system that includes a compact plant stand with fluorescent light fixtures. Like any gardening venture, space, time and long-term interest should be taken into account when planning an indoor growing system. There are plenty of options available for the beginner and the veteran.

So, don't let a little cold weather and short days stop you from gardening. A plant menagerie is just a light switch away.

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I tried several varieties of vegetables last year that weren't very good producers. Are there any out there that will keep my refrigerator filled with fresh produce?

There are vegetable and flower varieties that do better than others in the Yakima Valley simply because they are early producers and are more ideally suited to our short growing season. When considering what to plant, look to see when the variety matures. There are some tomato and pepper varieties that begin producing fruit within 60-days of transplanting. While they might be as desirable as one of those heirloom varieties that takes more than three months to mature, they will give you fruit and a lot of it, which is why you're putting it into the ground in the first place. Buying transplants at the big-box garden centers certainly will give you a good start on growing a strong producer, but, the choices are limited to the most common varieties, some of which are not really suited for the Valley. Starting plants from seed or scouring the garden catalogs this winter for oddball transplants can be more satisfying than a trip to the store and it will give you something different than what your neighbor is growing.

Many catalog companies sell out of their best varieties so it's a good idea to order early, even though your shipment won't arrive until spring. Here are a few vegetables and flowers that have shown vigor in Moxee over the past couple of years:

	Taxi: This is a short-season, yellow-skinned tomato with a determinate growth habit. A scrawny transplant purchased last year through the mail and placed in the ground June 2 yielded it's first ripe tomato August 1. How's that for a short season? There were so many tomatoes at maturity that there were hardly any leaves left, just fruit and vines. The plant has a compact growth habit, which makes it ideal for small gardens. But, don't be fooled by its size, this variety will require staking. It is such a heavy producer that vines get weighted down to the ground. The round fruits grow to a small fist size. They are mild tasting and non-acidic. They make a good salsa tomato, adding a splash of color to the mix.
	Boothby's Blonde: This is an heirloom cucumber from Maine. Two specimens grow from seed sowed the last week of June 2005 produced several bushels of cucumbers beginning in late August. These are very vigorous plants that will require staking or trellising plenty of open ground to spread out on. The fruit has a yellowish-white skin similar to lemon cucumbers but grow much fatter and up to 6-inches long. They are very sweet and great for slicing in salads or fresh from the vine with a daub of balsamic vinegar.
	Nicotiana sylvestris: Add a bit of the tropics to your garden with a flower variety from the nightshade family that carries the melancholy name of "Only the Lonely". A spotted specimen grown from seed was placed out on the back patio in the summer of 2005. As an annual in Zone 5 it didn't make it through the winter but dropped enough seeds on the surrounding soil that by midsummer of 2006, it had reseeded itself and produced enough specimens that most were culled to ensure the vigor of the three plants left standing. This is a very eye-catching plant that will spark many gardening conversations. It grows large oblong leaves that fan out around the base of the plant. It eventually sends up a tall stalk (3 - 4 feet) that becomes covered with snow-white, pendulous, trumpet-like flowers. Once it becomes established, it grows vigorously and blooms all season.
	Calendula: This is an English garden favorite that gets snubbed at the garden centers. When the occasional Calendula does show up at the store it is predictably the pumpkin-orange variety and that is a shame because there is such a vivid spectrum of colors available through seed, from vanilla to burgundy. In Moxee, Calendula started from seed takes a while to produce its first flower because cold nights last through May. But, by midsummer Calendula is sprouting new flowers daily and don't forget that the flowers are edible. A summer salad sprinkled with Calendula petals will no doubt peak one's curiosity if not the palate. But the best thing about Calendula is that it s cold hardy. Long after your neighbor has removed those mushy marigolds killed by the first frost, your Calendulas will continue producing autumn color right up until the first snowfall.

 

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I have several kinds of fruit trees growing in my yard. When is a good time to prune them?

Late January through early March is the best time to prune fruit trees before active growth begins. Remember that the exact opposite is true of spring-flowering trees, such as dogwood and crabapple. If you prune those trees now, you will be removing the previous season's growth that produces the flowers. The best time to prune spring-flowering shrubs and trees is right after they have finished blooming. In our climate, pruning after the deep freeze of December and early January will remove damaged areas. To reduce winter damage, avoid stimulating new growth late in the season by avoiding heavy applications of fertilizer or excessive summer pruning. The technique of pruning fruit trees is to thin them so they don't produce an overabundance of fruit. Through thinning you will increase the size and quality of the fruit and prevent limbs from breaking under the strain of excess fruit. Here is some pruning terminology to keep in mind when working on a tree.

	Crotch angle: The angle formed between the trunk and limb.
	Scaffold limb: A large limb that forms a tree's framework.
	Leader: The uppermost portion of a scaffold limb.
	Shoot: The length of a branch after one season of growth.
	Spur: A short shoot that produces flower buds or fruit.

When pruning fruit trees, there are a few basic ideas to keep in mind:

	Never prune for the sake of pruning. If the tree has been well-maintained over the years it might only need occasional pruning, but it is better to do a moderate annual pruning than wait several years and be forced to make major cuts. Dead and diseased wood should be removed every year.
	Don't prune young trees too vigorously. It will delay fruiting.
	Your pruning strategy should take into account the fruiting habit of the tree. Apple trees, for example, often need a vigorous pruning to encourage new growth of fruiting wood. Apple fruit is produced on wood that have long-lived spurs. Don't let peach and plum tree limbs grow too close to the ground because some of the best fruit often grows near the top of the tree. With that in mind, keep the tops of these trees low so the fruit is easy to reach.
	Good light penetration is necessary for fruit spur formation, so it is important to keep the center of a tree open. The strongest crotch angle is 45° to 60°. Training scaffold limbs to these angles when the tree is young will reduce the need for corrective pruning later on.
	There is little evidence to support painting over pruning wounds. The commercial products available to seal pruning wounds do little more than blacken the pruned area. Healthy trees should be able to withstand careful pruning. The best protection for a wound from removal of a large limb is to leave the branch collar intact to protect against wood-rotting fungus.

When working with young trees, scaffold selection and training should begin the first growing season. Pick two to four scaffolds with the appropriate angles to maintain. They should be evenly distributed and not growing directly above one another. Remove shoots developing below the selected scaffolds.

Before pruning during the first dormant season, spread the scaffolds because it will change the shape of the tree and might influence pruning decisions. Head the central leader to induce branching. Cut it back 3- to 5-inches above the point where you want the next set of scaffolds to appear.

Older trees that have been neglected can be reinvigorated with proper pruning. Keep in mind the concept of an open center and begin by removing diseased and damaged wood. Then thin out crisscrossing branches and encourage a strong central leader. With older fruit trees, branches that grow long but with no spurs are probably overgrown water sprouts that were not trimmed earlier.

By following a pruning regime that includes good scaffold selection and careful thinning cuts, you will establish a healthy and productive tree.

 

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I have tried growing tropical plants as houseplants but have had little success. What can I do to improve their vigor?

The drying action of home heating and cooling systems create a very poor environment for plants normally associated with a rain forest One option for people determined to grow plants that require high humidity is to create a controlled ecosystem. A terrarium not only provides suitable habitat but also gives the active gardener something to do during winter. Other than creating an artificial environment, the basic ingredients of a terrarium are very much like any other garden: Light, water, healthy soil, pest and disease control, proper temperature and patience.

To start with, you need a clear container. This can be anything from a fish aquarium to a brandy snifter. The size and shape of the container is limited only by the user's flexibility. Remember when selecting a container to take into consideration things such as placement, access and mobility. The last thing you want is a great terrarium sitting in the wrong place that is too heavy to move. While the standard perception of a terrarium is probably somewhere along the lines of a fish aquarium sitting on a bookshelf with an array of small plants and the odd scorpion or lizard running around inside there are plenty of other possibilities. Lamp stands or coffee tables that have glass enclosures make a great conversation piece when filled with live tropical plants and there is an added benefit that they double as a functional piece of furniture. Tall tubular terrariums accent a corner of a room nicely and can be used to grow larger species.

Base layer: This is for drainage. Overwatering leads to root rot and plant death so it is important that excess water has a place to go to keep the soil from becoming soggy. Use pea gravel, small pebbles or coarse sand. Another product on the market is expanding clay pellets that reduce the overall weight of the base layer. The base layer should be at least 1-inch thick and depending on the size of the terrarium, could be as much as 3-inches thick. Some terrarium builders put a thin layer of activated charcoal above the base layer. The charcoal helps clean the air of gasses released by decomposing organic material.

Substrate divider: Above the base layer there should be a thin screen to prevent the substrate from sifting down and clogging the base layer. The divider can be woven nylon shade material, fiberglass window screen or a layer of sphagnum moss

Substrate: There are premixed terrarium soils available or you can make your own using one part coarse sand, one part humus and two parts potting soil. To create a desert habitat, just add extra sand to the soil mixture and additional gravel to the drainage level. Construct a landscape using rocks, branches or mounds of soil to add dimension and interest to a terrarium. If you are planning to add critters to the terrarium, such as a tarantula or a snake, make sure there is a dedicated water source. Terrestrial animals also appreciate terraces or valleys and something to hide under to break the monotony of a flat landscape.

Plants: Choose groups of plants that will grow well together. Think about compatibility such as watering and light needs. Smaller varieties that grow slowly are a good choice to keep plants from outgrowing their environment. Treat your terrarium as you would any other garden space. Make plant choices based on height, color and texture. When putting the plants in the terrarium be aware of spacing and adequate growth room.

Light: Inadequate lighting can be the death of a terrarium. If you're using a fish tank for your container, experts recommend using two full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs that run the length of the tank. Regardless of your terrarium's shape or size, light should be provided for 12- to 14-hours a day. An automatic timer will help keep the light cycle steady. Never leave the terrarium in full sunlight.

Humidity: Use a clear cover for your container and check it often for condensation. A healthy terrarium should have a certain amount of moisture on the glass, but you don't want heavy drops of water appearing. When this occurs, open the lid slightly until the excess moisture evaporates. By experimenting with ventilation you can balance the humidity for the desired effect. An enclosed terrarium will need little water, but be vigilant to changes in a plant's appearance due to moisture levels.

Terrarium options are limited only by your own creativity. There's even a company in Massachusetts that breeds poison dart frogs for terrarium enthusiasts who have a fascination with the exotic.

 

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I'm planning a new garden space and was wondering what I should consider in terms of plant selection?

Many gardeners find the process of planning a garden almost as enjoyable as planting one. Let's face it, that lushly varied oasis of color and form we envision in our minds usually exceeds the results of the real thing. This is especially true for the first few years as the plants begin to grow - or not - and reach maturity. And then, of course, somewhere in-between we make changes to the original plan based on our strengths (literally because a lot of gardening - i.e. Earth moving - is hard work) and come up with a more pragmatic goal. Eventually our gardens grow into extensions of ourselves. An illustration of this also can serve as a cautionary tale for anyone scanning unused yard space this winter with grand schemes afoot.

There once was a man who lived in the upper Sacramento River Valley. He had lived in apartments for more than a decade and finally decided to rent a house. The lawn he inherited was in pretty bad shape but reinvigorating the lawn sounded boring. He wanted to plant flowers and vegetables and impress his neighbors. So, in March he started to dig. After years of cramped apartment living he had built up a reservoir of latent energy. It broke dormancy in the form of digging with his newly purchased shovel. He dug and he dug and he dug until he had converted several hundred square feet along the entire length of one side of the house into freshly spaded soil.

In April he started to plant. It didn't matter what he planted. If it looked good at the discount drug store it went into the garden.

In May he had to start watering because the rainy season was nearing its end. He hadn't really prepared for this and his hose wasn't quite long enough to make it the length of the garden so a lot of hand-watering was involved.

By July the inferno hit. The average daily temperature for the month was 101°. In his garden were shriveled Zinnias, a wilted pumpkin, dead peppermint, etc. It was no victory garden -- more like a defeated garden. And all that pristine soil was attracting cats near and far to their newest favorite dumping ground. Gardening can't be this hard, he thought. But a trip to the library soon supplied him with the most important garden tool there is: Knowledge.

In September the section that was unreachable by hose was converted into a rock garden. What was left of the summer stock was replaced with desert succulents and drought-tolerant ornamental grass. A large section of the rest of the garden became the "graveyard". This was a sheltered, last-chance haven for plants that failed to thrive in other parts of the yard. He also overseeded the lawn with a winter-hardy variety.

With the early spring came satisfaction. The lawn was golf-course quality. The red yucca, Hesperaloe parviflora, bloomed its first year. The Aloe plants doubled in size. The graveyard produced strong specimens that could be transplanted somewhere else and the neighbor's cats? Well, they didn't find the sharp rocks to their liking and took their business elsewhere.

The moral of the story is that you can't always get the garden you want.

We live in the high desert. The indigenous flora of the Yakima Valley has evolved to withstand extreme temperature swings. Unless you're willing to devote a lot of time running outside to protect plants every time there is a significant change in the weather you'll want to grow plants that are hardy in Zone 5. That means those cool subtropics are out. Don't plant Agapanthus, a Zone 7 perennial known as Lily of the Nile, unless you're lucky enough to have a predictable microclimate.

And, think about water. We can compensate for our minimal rainfall with the hose or an irrigation system. But how and when you water is something that should be planned before the plants go in. Plants that require little water make good sense environmentally and economically.

But mostly, gardening is experimental. What works in your neighbor's yard might not work in your yard. And just because someone says, "don't plant Agapanthus" doesn't mean you shouldn't try it. If you can make it grow, it's one heck of a plant. After all, it is your garden and you are what you grow!

 

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I know it isn't spring, but it seems like it is about time for the Master Gardener Spring Symposium. Am I right?

You are right and many Master Gardener volunteers have been planning so that you will have another fun day with us. It will be held February 24th and you can get more information by calling the Extension office at 574-1600. Of course, we will have wonderful classes for you to attend including topics such as Propagation, Flowering Trees through the year, Ornamental Grasses and others. You can count on us for an all-day supply of cookies, snacks and beverages and the chance to win wonderful prizes. There will also be a display of yard art to give you ideas for your own yard. Lunch will also be available for an additional fee. Come join us for a day of education and fun.

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What to do in the February garden...

It may look cold, barren and uninviting outside, but if you are a gardener, you have already been out there poking around hoping for some early bulbs showing their heads, and perhaps some annuals that have reseeded themselves. At any rate, gardeners don't really ever stop gardening and even if the cold and snow tries to stop them, they will retreat into the warm house to do some planning for when the weather is more inviting.

Get out your garden catalogs and begin some earnest reading. Choose your favorites to browse and that might mean that they offer better variety, better prices or lower costs to ship. All those things should come into play. You don't have catalogs? Get on the computer and keyword the name of the nursery you want and they will take info and send you one, or go visit the Arboretum Library where they have a whole shelf of catalogs. Look at the selection a bit different this year. Rely on old favorites but take time to study the new varieties of veggies and flowers and order something new. Why not try some lemon cucumbers or a glove artichoke or maybe you want to push the zones a little and try a warmer weather crop like peanuts. Put some creativity into your garden this year.

Shop for a 2007 calendar that has big squares for each day so you can use this as a journal. They are all on sale right now and what a good way to begin the year for recording your progress. Make the first entry the date, place and what you ordered out of the catalog. Include the prices you paid.

If you have backyard fruit trees, it is time to prune them and if you don't know how, call the clinic and a Master Gardener will call you back and help you -- 574-1600. There are also bulletins available on this subject. You can also prune some of your ornamental shrubs right now but do not prune spring flowering plants because you will cut off their blooms. It is also time to prune your grapes and while you are at it, take the prunings and make a wreath that hangs from the garden gate.

Take some time in your gardening shed/barn/garage and make sure all your spring tools are ready to go. Do some of them need sharpening? Are you a carpenter? Get ready for spring by building a cold frame to help with those early spring plantings. This is a good time to build or repair your raised beds. While you are at it consider making some one-foot grids in one of them to prepare for some square foot gardening. This system allows you to just plant what you need in each square and to do some succession planting for constant vegetables in the garden. This year Master Gardener volunteers will be installing this system in our demonstration garden located at the Ahtanum Youth Park. For more information about square foot gardening check out books by Mel Bartholomew at the Yakima Library.

Get ready for some spring seeding indoors by disinfecting all your old recycled pots and trays.

Do little walking in planting areas during the wet spring months. This can cause compaction and be hard on the roots of many of your plants.

Don't get in a hurry to get out into the garden and when you do go, start slow so that your winter muscles have time to get adjusted.

Be patient -- spring will come soon.

 

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Last year I tried growing many of my flowers from seed; however, I lost most of the seedlings to damping off. I'm willing to try again, but I do not wish to experience the same disappointment. Do you have any suggestions for controlling this damping-off critter?

Damping-off generally refers to sudden plant death in the seedling stage due to the attack of fungi. These fungi are soil-borne and are stimulated to grow and infect the seed or seedlings by nutrients released from a germinating seed.

The damping-off issues is a common problem worldwide. It occurs in most soils, temperatures, tropical climates and in greenhouses. The amount of damage the disease causes depends on the fungus, soil moisture and temperature. Typically, cool wet soils favor development of the disease.

Preventive measures are based on eliminating fungi that cause damping-off or providing chemical barriers to prevent the fungi from growing in the planting medium. As a home gardener, you may want to begin with the following steps:

	Purchase pasteurized, packaged soil that is available at many garden centers.
	Prevent soil recontamination. Sterilize all items that you will use in your process of starting seeds, i.e. tools, pots, flats, etc.
	As the possibility of recontamination typically always exists, fungicide seed treatment should also be considered. Examples of fungicides used as seed treatments include Thiram and Captan. As always, be sure to read and follow label instructions when using any chemical.

 

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As I think towards spring, I also think how sad my yard looked last year, especially when compared to my neighbor's. When I queried my neighbor regarding his green thumb, he simply responded "Compost". So, what is so great about compost?

Perhaps you dug in and planted your garden before building up the soil as much as you should have. Compost is a way of fixing your soil without starting over. What your neighbor is telling you is that well-aged compost is his green thumb magic. Compost adds important organic matter to your soil, allowing it to stay moist, yet drain well. In addition, it adds air to keep your plant roots healthy and provides important nutrients for thrifty, robust plant growth.

Do you want to improve your soil without starting over? Here are a couple of suggestions:

1. Feed plants you already have. This technique can actually be done any time of the year but it is easiest in the spring when your plants are still small. How do you do it? Simple. If there is plant debris or mulch in your flower bed, pull that away, then put down 2- to 4-inches of compost around each plant. Start about an inch or so away from the crown and extend it just beyond the plant's drip line. Then exercise patience and allow your garden's earthworms and bacteria to do their job incorporating the compost into the soil. Doing this each year will gradually improve the condition of your soil. In the meantime, your compost works as mulch, keeping soil moist and inhibiting weed growth.
2. Prepare the perfect planting hole. As you add new plants to your garden, dig a hole as large as you can without disturbing any nearby plants and dig the hole 3-to 6-inches deeper than normally required. Then, mix the soil from the hole in a bucket with an equal amount of compost. Put some of this mix in the bottom of the hole, place the new plant in and fill in around it with more of the mixture.

While you can initially buy compost commercially to get your garden off to a great start this spring, consider a composting program of your own. It is an easy, inexpensive way to turn garden waste into this wonderful garden tool. To learn more about composting, attend a no-cost Master Composter class offered through the Yakima Solid Waste Department. The telephone number to call is 574-2450.

 

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I know it isn't spring, but it seems like it is about time for the Master Gardener Spring Symposium. Am I right?

Yes, you are right and many Master Gardener volunteers have been planning so that you will have another fun day with us. It will be held February 24th and you can get more information by calling the Yakima County WSU Extension office at 574-1600 or going on-line and downloading the brochure and registration form at http://treefruit.yakima.wsu.edu/mg/mgindex.html

Of course we will have wonderful classes for you to attend including topics such as Propagation, Flowering Trees Through the Year, Ornamental Grasses and others. You can count on us for an all-day supply of cookies, snacks and beverages and the chance to win wonderful prizes. There will also be a display of yard art to give you ideas for your own yard. Lunch will also be available for an additional fee. Come join us for a day of education and fun.

 

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I love lilies and would like to plant some in my garden. Can you tell me ow to choose, plant and care for them?

Large, striking flowers, fabulous fragrance and relatively easy cultural requirements are some of the inviting reasons to grow lilies. But, perhaps the most compelling reason to grow them is because nothing can compare with an arm full (or vase full) of fragrant lilies. Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types of lilies for the garden. They grow from fleshy bulbs that produce flowers that can be shaped like frilly stars, trumpets or bells and come in various colors. Different varieties have different hardiness ratings so look for bulbs that will thrive in USDA zones 6 and 7. Asiatic lilies are the easiest to grow. They are quite hardy and sturdy so they don't need to be staked. They are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it is well-drained. Oriental lilies are popular because of their large, exotic blooms and heavy, sweet fragrance. If you mulch them heavily each fall they can be grown successfully in colder climates - provided the soil is rich in organic matter, has good drainage and is on the acidic side.

Although lily bulbs are usually planted in the fall from mid-September through mid-October, they can be planted in the spring. You must remember that these bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting. When buying bulbs, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached and plant them as soon as possible. Plant any bulbs that you order through the mail as soon as you receive them.

Lilies that you buy in containers, such as Easter Lilies, can be planted in your garden throughout the growing season so long as they are sufficiently hardy. Avoid planting them out before cold weather has passed as the unconditioned bulb will be susceptible to the cold. Don't expect more blooms that year. Chances are, the bulb was forced early and will not bloom in the garden again until mid or late summer of the following year.

Plant lilies in full sun. Plant large bulbs 4- to 6-inches deep and smaller bulbs 2- to 4-inches deep (to the top of the bulb). They will look best grown in groups. Plant five to seven small bulbs together and groups of three to five for larger bulbs. Space the groups about a foot apart. Feed each spring with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (such as 5-10-10). Divide and replant large clusters of bulbs every three to four years to keep them blooming vigorously.

New spring shoots are susceptible to slug and little varmint damage - so protect them however you can -- baits, traps or garden cats -- whatever will work for you. Watering the soil and not the plant will help to prevent most diseases that lilies are prone to. Deadheading will prevent the plant from wasting its energies producing seed. Wait to cut foliage back until it begins to die back. This will allow maximum energy to be stored to the bulbs so that you will be able to enjoy their presence in your garden year after year.

 

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Can you give me some tips for forcing blooms in the house? I want to see some color!

We do need some color in early spring and a good way to find it is from some of the garden branches you are pruning right now. It is a judgment call about what to cut and when to cut it but we can offer some guidelines. Shrubs that produce flowers before leaves are easiest to force. Only take branches that will leave the shrub looking right. Cut your branches on a mild day, around noon when the sap is up into the branches. Put the cut ends into a container containing room temperature water and in a few days, change the water and move this to a north-facing window so it receives some filtered light. When the flowers begin to open, put this into full sun to help the color of the flowers. Some that might do well when cut in March are Cercis canadensis, red bud, C. florida, flowering dogwood; Crataegus spp, hawthorn and Malus, flowering crabapple. For more information read the book Gardener's Desk Reference, by Anne Halpin.

 

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I love Alliums. How do I achieve the biggest, showiest blooms possible?

First, start with the bulbs. For the biggest blooms, always buy "top-size" bulbs. This is a bulb-industry term that is a great indicator of how large your blooms will be; most often, the bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower. Second, always keep in mind that soil matters. The ideal soil for alliums is a sandy loam. Add a layer of compost and a bit of sand to your soil if it does not drain well. Work the compost/sand components deeply into the soil well below where the bulb will sit. Alliums are healthiest when planted in soil that stays dry, so combine them with other dry-loving plants to avoid giving them too much water. Third, immediately after planting, sprinkle some 7-1-5 bulb food onto the soil surface, scratch it into the soil and water it in. To keep the flowers blooming big and strong, feed them with about a handful of the same bulb food three times every year --

• -- In spring just as the foliage pokes through the soil;
• -- In summer when the blooms fade and foliage withers; and
• -- In fall, as you do your final garden cleanup.

If you have alliums that have grown weak and failed to flower it is quite often a problem with the roots. As long as they still grow foliage, it is not too late to save them. Problem indicators and possible solutions include:

1. Pale, weak foliage - fertilize.
2. Soil too wet and bulb is starting to rot - move it to a drier spot.
3. Trees or shrubs aggressively competing - again, move the bulbs.
4. Clump of foliage and no flowers - while Allium bulbs are slow to multiply, this may indicate they need to be lifted, divided and reset.

One final suggestion in helping you grow your alliums with the greatest "WOW" factor, is to pinch back the faded head before it sets seed. Leave the foliage and the entire stem to feed the bulb.

 

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I've heard that the Master Gardener Spring Symposium is this month. Is it too late to register?

Yes, the Spring Symposium is this Saturday, February 24th, 2007 at the Yakima Area Arboretum. You can go online and download a registration form at http://treefruit.yakima.wsu.edu/MG/mgindex.html, or call for a registration form or more information to the WSU Extension Office at 574-1600. You may also register at the door on a space available basis. Master Gardener volunteers have been planning lots of fun stuff so that you will have another great day with us. Of course we will have wonderful classes for you to attend including topics such as Propagation, Flowering Trees through the year, Ornamental Grasses, Perennials and others. You can count on us for an all-day supply of cookies, snacks and beverages, and the chance to win wonderful prizes. There will also be a display of yard art to give you ideas for your own yard. Lunch will also be available for an additional fee. Come join us for a day of education and fun.

 

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I am in the midst of ordering seeds for this spring's vegetable garden and the kids want me to order some gourds. There are so many choices. What should I order? And, can you give me any tips on growing them?

Great! It is wonderful to see interest in the garden by children and they have picked a fun crop to grow. The common name for gourds is based on their appearance. Just look at what a swan, penguin or banana gourd looks like and you will know why they are named as they are. The Latin name for gourds is Cucurbitaceae which makes them a cousin to cucumbers. They are easy to grow, like a well-drained soil and like to sprawl. You could grow them in hills and let them run along the ground but ideally they like a trellis to grow on. They will provide an annual privacy screen, create shade for your patio or grow along your fence to save space. Read the description of the seeds that the nursery is offering and they will tell you how big the gourds will get. Small gourds have a yellow bloom and open during the day. Large gourds have white blooms and open at night where they rely on night-flying insects to pollinate them. Some nurseries offer a package of seeds that include many varieties and this would be a good way to begin and fun to watch all the shapes and sizes you produce. Order some gourd seeds!!

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My husband spent the winter building window boxes for me and I have never planted them before. What should I do first?

First you should give your hubby a kiss and a big thank you! What a nice gift that will bring you pleasure for a long time. Window boxes are a way to bring a bit of color in small areas. Of course they look nice against your home, but can even brighten up the wall of the garage, an outdoor shed, the chicken coop or perhaps along side your mail box. And, you can do a multitude of plantings in them. Of course, you should consider perennials, annuals, vines and colorful foliage but you can even use them for food production by planting herbs and vegetables.

There are some planting instructions that can help you with success. First, it is a small area so use good soil with some compost mixed in and some sort of mulch on the top of the soil to help retain moisture. And water them often. Remember that we live in a desert and small containers will need more water. Make sure there is drainage in the bottom.

Consider where you are mounting the boxes. Depending on whether it is in the shade or the sun, choose and use plant material that grow best in those areas. If you decide to put one by the mailbox and it is near the hot road this would require some extra care in plant selection. Portulaca or moss roses do well in hot areas and will reseed themselves. We have seen boxes done entirely with sedum too and they are beautiful.

So do your homework and enjoy this wonderful gift you have received.

 

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I have had trouble in the past with powdery mildew in my garden. Can you tell me how to get rid of it?

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal disease in the world of plants. A white (or light gray) talcum-powder-like mildew is characteristic of this fungal disease which attacks many different plant species. To be accurate, it may be noted that some powdery mildew pathogens attack many different plant species, but most are specific to a limited host. In other words, the pathogen that causes powdery mildew on lilacs is not the same one that causes it on beans - but they are similar and can be controlled in the same ways.

Biological Controls: Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew generally does not grow in wet, rainy conditions. Infection can actually occur on dry leaves. However, the relative humidity of the air does need to be high for spore germination. Warm temperatures, high humidity, poor air circulation and shade combine to make a perfect environment for the fungus to grow and spread. On the other hand extreme heat and direct sunlight are fungus killers.

Planting disease resistant or disease tolerant varieties with enough space between plants for good air circulation will get things off to a good start.

Succulent new growth is very susceptible to powdery mildew. Try cutting back on high-nitrogen fertilizer. Replace it with a time-release product or a lower nitrogen formula.

Prune out infected leaves and branches to remove disease and provide good air circulation and destroy all infected plant material included fallen leaves. Do not put them in the compost heap unless you know how to maintain a nice hot pile that will kill the pathogen.

Fungicide: Although most plants will survive and outgrow a mild case of powdery mildew with simple biological controls, an application of sulfur or other commercial fungicide might also be warranted. Be sure to determine if the chosen product is registered for use on the affected plant by reading the label and be sure to follow all directions.

 

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When I start my own plants from seed they always get long and skinny and flop over sideways, especially the tomatoes. I know it's from lack of light but if I try to put them in our sunniest window they get too hot and dry out. Is there some way to start plants inside and provide them with enough light?

Legginess in plant starts grown indoors is a common problem and you are right about it being a lack of light. A south facing window may be too warm during the heat of the day to provide the right environment for fragile little seedlings but a window with an eastern or western exposure might not provide enough light to prevent leggy growth.

Light can be supplemented indoors by hanging a regular fluorescent light directly over the seedlings. The trick is that the light must be within inches of the plants. Two four-foot light fixtures hung side-by-side, can provide light for multiple seed starting trays. A sturdy five-foot board set atop cement blocks on either end is a simple framework from which to hang the light fixtures. Screw hooks into the underside of the board and use chains to hold the light fixtures. The fixtures can then be raised and lowered to keep the lights within a couple inches of the seedlings (don't let them touch the light). You will find that your seedlings will have more color and be less leggy when grown this way.

If you don't want to mess with the lights, growing your seedlings on the windowsill can still be a successful way to start plants. A gangly start is seldom a permanent problem once the plants get growing outside. However, care must be taken to prevent damage from sun, wind, cold and other weather exposure by acclimatizing a plant start to outside conditions before planting it out in the garden. Contrary to what you might think it can be the sun more than the cold that damages young plants. Protection from freezing is important but sunburn on tender leaves can also be devastating. Plants that have been somewhat light deprived need a little toughening up before they can take the great outdoors. This is called hardening off.

Hardening off is a process by which you gradually condition plants grown indoors to outdoor life. One method is to bring the plant outdoors for a gradually increasing period of time each day. Start with ten minutes and increase by five minutes each day for two weeks. This method works well as long as you're not forgetful. Another method is leaving plants in a sheltered place with filtered sun or that has periods of sun throughout the day. Using a double thickness of floating row cover as a tent is another effective method of hardening off. This lightweight garden fabric provides a few degrees of frost protection and will help prevent sunburn. After a few days the second layer can be removed and a single layer can provide diminishing protection. Just remember that the temperature will become elevated under that cover if left indirect sun on a warm day and conversely, that it will not protect from a hard freeze. It is best to take plants in at night until they are planted and/or frost danger is past.

Starting your own plants from seed can be very rewarding. You will be able to try weird and wild varieties that you could never find in the store. Seed catalogs will become your favorite read and you will find a new zest for gardening.

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What to do in the March garden...

Here is a list of things to do in the garden in March. Because you will be doing a lot of pruning and trimming this month, a set of clean, sharp garden shears is a must.

	Finish pruning fruit trees and evergreens but avoid pruning flowering trees and shrubs, such as dogwood rhododendron, until after they bloom. Wait no longer than just after buds begin to swell to finish pruning soft fruit trees, such as peaches, cherries, plums and apricots.
	Now is a good time to transplant hardy nursery stock. Trees and shrubs will get a good chance to establish themselves and begin root growth before the heat of summer.
	Cut back ornamental grasses to a few inches above the ground to make way for new growth.
	Cut raspberries and other cane berries to about 5 feet; cut fall-bearing raspberries to ground level. To prevent the spread of cane borers, dig out and destroy galled canes and infested crowns.
	Prune rose bushes. Remove any dead, diseased or damaged stems. On bush varieties, cut stems back to an outward-facing bud, shortening them to about knee height. Make an angled cut about a quarter-inch above the outward-facing bud. Don't cut too close to the bud or it will dry out. The rule of thumb for many rosarians is the harder you prune, the stronger the new shoots will grow. Another good rose-growing tip is to feed them with alfalfa meal, a slow-acting, all-purpose fertilizer that helps create larger blooms and increases a plant's cold tolerance. Many rosarians make a foliar spray of alfalfa tea to apply directly to the leaves. To make alfalfa tea, soak 1 cup of alfalfa meal per 5-gallons of water. But be careful, an over-application of alfalfa meal will generate too much heat and damage roots.
	Divide perennials that bloom in late summer and early fall, such as blanket flowers and cone flowers. Spring and summer perennials can be divided now, too, but it is better to enjoy their blooms and divide them in the fall. You can tell when a perennial needs to be divided when the center becomes less vigorous or dies out.
	Give spring bulbs a light application of a balanced fertilizer.
	Replace or amend the soil in your tubs and containers. Add enough humus to break up compact soil so plant roots can spread freely.
	If you have a sunny spot in the garden, sow some sweet peas to get a jump on annual flowers. Soak the seeds overnight in lukewarm water to promote germination. Provide a trellis or other support for the plants to spread out on.
	Try sowing some root or cole crops such as radishes or cabbages. Keep a close eye on the seedlings and protect them from hard frosts with floating row cover. The issue with growing cold-hardy vegetables at this time of year is not so much protecting them from frost, cabbage can withstand subzero temperatures; it is getting the seed to germinate in soil that still has not warmed to an ideal temperature. A cold frame is an option for starting plants before moving them to the garden.
	Begin removing heavy layers of mulch around protected plants as the nights begin to warm. But, don't be fooled by a few warm days. The last day of frost for Yakima County is May 15. Thin layers of mulch should be left in place because they will protect plants from summer heat and retain moisture for more economical watering.
	Get started on weeds. Cool weather weeds already will be infesting your lawn and garden. If you had a lot of lawn weed problems last year, try applying a pre-emergent herbicide after about March 15th to control the onslaught of warm-weather weeds. But remember that a pre-emergent will inhibit the growth of grass seed too. If you have bare spots in your lawn that you want to overseed later in the spring, don't apply pre-emergent to those areas.
	Rake up yard debris that blew in over the winter. Areas with thatch will need to be power-raked to give new grass a chance to grow. Consider having your lawn aerated or do it yourself. This can be as simple as putting on your golf shoes and methodically walking the length of the lawn. Garden centers sell inexpensive spiked soles that can be strapped to your shoes.

 

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Why doesn't the hardiness zone recommended for Yakima County gardeners coincide with the hardiness zone map distributed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture?

The short answer is that the USDA is in the process of creating an expanded version of the hardiness zone map so this area's designation could change. The USDA hardiness zone map places Yakima County in Zone 6 or 6A if you follow the most up-to-date version, but the Washington State University Extension office places Yakima County in Zone 5. That means the average annual minimum temperature a plant must be able to withstand is minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. That leaves tropicals, subtropicals and even many temperate-region plants out of reach for gardeners in this area without winter protection. Even some Zone 5 plants need winter protection to ensure their long-term health.

Zone 5 makes sense for this region when placed in a historical context. Areas in both Yakima and Kittitas Counties face extreme weather conditions at different times during the 20th century, when temperatures dropped below the minus 10 degree cutoff for Zone 6. While temperatures that cold occur infrequently, it takes only one severe cold snap to wipe out a decade worth of gardening.

That said, the confusion doesn't really end by acknowledging we live in Zone 5. One of the indicator species for Zone 7 is Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica), which means under normal growing conditions an Atlas cedar would not thrive in climes where the lowest average temperature is below zero degrees Fahrenheit. But visit the Yakima Area Arboretum and you'll find a healthy, cold-hardy Atlas cedar in the middle of the Arboretum grounds with no protection from the elements. One of the Zone 6 indicator species is Japanese maple (Acer palmatum). Given how many residential homes in the region have Japanese maples, one would think it is a species native to the area.

Sunset Magazine devised its own cold hardiness map, which claims that Yakima is in the coldest growing region in the West with a growing season from only June through August. Admittedly, we have a short growing season, but its not that short! Otherwise, the farmer's market in Yakima would not have expanded its season into late fall.

The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map was first published in 1960 and revised in 1965 to depict 11 hardiness zones it divided North America into regions separated by increments of 10 degrees Fahrenheit descending in number as the average temperature dropped. The model has been used by the plant breeders to rate plants for cold resistance so consumers understand what is likely to survive in their region. The 11 zones were subdivided in 1990. Zones 2-10 were split in two with an "A" for the lower end of the temperature scale and a "B" for the upper end. But plant breeders rarely use these subdivisions and they mostly serve as a guidepost for gardeners who want to experiment with half-hardy plants in colder regions.

A myriad of changes have occurred since climate mapping began in the 1940's. Cultural and environmental factors in many regions are significantly different now than 50 years ago, and the USDA acknowledges that many of the zone classifications are no longer valid. The American Horticulture Society has received a grant to update the hardiness zone map. The group has studied 30 years of weather data and is in the process of updating the zone maps to include mitigating circumstances such as the length of cold spells in the winter, airflow patterns, the effect of large bodies of water, such as oceans and lakes, and heat factors. The new version of the map will abandon the A and B subzones but will add four new zones for a total of 15.

Confusion over cold hardiness regions likely will persist as cities and regions are moved from one zone to another. Gardeners will no doubt be scratching their heads, wondering if their yard full of plants will survive. Fortunately, plants adapt to environmental changes and will continue to do so just as they have for millennia. To view the 1990 version of the USDA plant hardiness zone map, go to www.usna.usda.gov/hardzone/ushzmap.html

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What is a gothic garden?

In today's society, a gothic garden most likely conjures up images of Morticia Addams trudging around a graveyard in the moonlight, searching for belladonna or mandrake to mix into one of her toxic brews. But it should invoke the longing stare of a flawed romantic, the Byronic hero, seeking solace through nature.

Some people go to great lengths to make a part of their yard look mysterious or gothic through their choice of landscaping, which might include strange topiary, vine-covered arbors, garden sculptures (think gargoyles) and plant selection that usually favors dark blooms. Every year around Halloween, gothic gardens become a short-lived phenomenon.

A common feature in gothic gardens are plants that produce "black" foliage or flowers. Apparently this is a visual representation of the shadow world so prevalent in gothic imagery. While there is no true black in the flower world, the nursery industry often inserts the word "black" to describe blooms that are deep purple, dark red, burgundy or chocolate. In the right light, they can look black. And while black flowers might be sought after for groupings in a gothic garden, they also can join the yellows, oranges and reds of any other garden. In borders around a white picket fence, for example, what will stand out more, white Shasta daisies or Aguilegia "Chocolate Soldier", a columbine that produces dark brown flowers?

One plant not normally associated with dusky hues is the calla lily (Zantedeschia). Most of these natives of South Africa produce creamy white flowers, but, hybridizers have expanded the color range. And, as more colors make their way into people's gardens, the more popular calla lilies become. The Associated Press recently reported that a variety of calla lily called "Edge of Night" is one of the most popular cut flowers in Europe. The 3-inch, conical flowers are a purplish-red that in the right light look like black velvet But, the eye appeal doesn't end there. "Edge of Night" has silver-flecked, purple-edged, glossy green leaves and deep purple stems. Calla lily is a moisture-loving plant that prefers partial shade, but the amount of sunlight will affect the blooms on "Edge of Night". More sun increases the blackness of the flowers. In the Yakima Valley, calla lilies work best in containers because they can be transported inside before the first frost. The rhizomes, however, can be dug up at the end of each season and easily over-wintered.

Here are some other "black" plants for people looking to add a little elegant gloom to their gardens:

	Bugbane (Actaea simplex 'Black Negligee'): Lacy, purple-tinted foliage and white bottle-brush flowers that are strongly fragrant .
	Elephant ears (Colocasia esculenta 'Black Magic'): a tropical plant with huge, grayish-purple leaves. A great addition around ponds and water gardens.
	Oxalis (Oxalis regnellii 'Atropurpurea'): Purple, shamrock-like leaves. Thrives in shade. Produces small lilac flowers.
	Meadow Cranesbill (Geranium pratense 'Midnight Reiter'): Deep purple foliage and bluish lilac flowers. Will repeat bloom in the fall if cut back n early summer.
	Bat Plant (Tacca chantrierei: A bizarre creature that would make Bram Stoker proud. It has wing-like leaves and dusky blooms with 12-inch long tentacles. A 3-foot tall, shade-loving tropical plant, it needs warmth to survive
	Some other dark blooms include the always durable viola family: 'Bowles Black' violet (Viola cornura) and 'Black Moon' pansy (Viola x wittrockiana), tulips such as 'Black Parrot' or 'Queen of Night' add drama in spring.
	Peppers (Capsicum): 'Black Pearl' was an All-America Selections winner in 2006. This culinary ornamental has moderately shiny black leaves and produces small, round fruits that ripen from black to red.
	Rose (Rosa): 'Black Baccara' is a hybrid tea with burgundy flowers that appear almost black.

And while on the subject of roses, one other cultivar of note is named after Lord Bryan. It is a small climbing rose that produces large apricot blooms, perfect for that solitary arbor.

But a garden, even a gothic one, seems to be the antithesis of Byronic cynicism. As the English Philosopher and mathematician Bertrand Russell once said: "Every time I talk to a savant, I feel quite sure that happiness is no longer a possibility. Yet when I talk with my gardener, I'm convinced of the opposite."

 

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Are there any roses that grow well in the shade?

Roses love five to six hours of direct sunlight a day and no rose will thrive in full shade. But, there are several varieties that do just fine with minimal exposure to sun. When considering shade plants, it is important to note that roses planted in shady areas tend to grow tall and leggy, often losing the attractive shape so common of the genus. Roses grown in shade also are more prone to disease and won't produce as many blooms. Regardless of where they are growing, roses like slightly acidic soil and should be lightly fertilized several times a season. To reduce the risk of disease, plant roses so they have plenty of circulation. Avoid watering regimes that soak the leaves, but an occasional washing will help rid leaves of dust and aphids. Of the many classes of old garden and modern roses, there are a few that adapt to shade better than others.

Hybrid musk is the most shade-tolerant class of roses. Many varieties come from stock bred by the Reverend Joseph Pemberton that first appeared in 1913. Hybrid musk is a continuous-flowering cluster shrub. They are best grown freely and pruned with a light hand, allowing their individual forms to develop. Many will thrive with as little as one or two hours of sunlight a day. Dappled sunlight throughout the day will increase bloom productivity.

Alba is one of the oldest groups of cultivars. Albas are medium-sized, upright shrubs that bloom midsummer.

Rugosa is a class of rose that comes from the coastal environments of Siberia, China, the Koreas and Japan where they often are found growing in sand dunes. It is a hardy plant that is disease resistant, making it a good choice for shaded areas.

Floribunda, as the name suggests, produces an abundance of flowers. They are placed in the modern rose classification and are a popular bush plant used in beds in combination with hybrid teas and grandifloras. The main reason they can deal with shade is their productivity. But be prepared to see far fewer blooms on a floribunda growing in shade than on one in sunlight.

Here are 10 cultivars that rosarians agree will tolerate shade and are suited for hardiness Zone 5.

• Ballerina: A post-Pemberton hybrid musk that makes everyone's list for shade tolerance. Five-petaled flowers of pink and white grow in clusters and bloom well into the fall. This is a shrub that can be trained as a small climber.
• Cornelia: A Pemberton hybrid musk. Fragrant, deep pink double flowers with shades of apricot and gold borne in large clusters. Good repeat bloomer. Ideal for hedges with mature size about 5-foot tall and 5-foot wide.
• Gruss an Aachen: A floribunda that is covered with clusters of salmon-pink double flowers that fade to creamy white. A garden favorite since its introduction in 1909.
• Hansa: A hardy Rugosa with deep pink to mauve flowers that are highly fragrant. Produces a heavy set of large red hips. These big fruits often are called shore pears or beach tomatoes because of the native habitat of Rugosa species.
• Iceberg: A floribunda introduced in 1958 by hybridizer Reimer Kordes of Germany. Profuse clusters of white, double-petaled flowers. Compact growth habit. Voted World's Favorite Rose in 1983.
• Knock Out: A shrub rose considered by some rosarians to be the most shade tolerant of all roses. Heavy producer of cherry-red blooms from early spring through the first frosts. Black spot resistant and drought-tolerant. An All-American Rose Selection winner in 2000.
• Mme Hardy: A damask rose dating back to 1832. Elegant white blooms with a blush of pink. Flowers open flat, revealing a green eye. A 5-foot shrub with one annual bloom. A member of the Old Rose Hall of Fame.
• Mme Plantier: An alba named for its hybridizer. White, very fragrant blooms with foliage that produces few thorns. A good climber that can reach 18-feet high if supported. Thin canes are pliable and easy to train. Blooms in the summer.
• New Dawn: A large-flowered climber with double blooms of pale pink flowers that appear in spring and again in late summer. Voted a World's Favorite Rose in 1997.
• Playboy: A floribunda that is a top choice for shade tolerance. Heavy bloomer that produces orange-scarlet, semi-double flowers with a splash of yellow. Disease resistant and cold hardy.

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What is the best method for growing potatoes?

Potatoes are easy to grow. They don't require a lot of special treatment and can produce a large crop in minimal growing space. When planting seed potatoes, use only certified seeds to ensure that they are disease free. Don't use potatoes from the grocery store because most are treated with a chemical that prevents them from sprouting. A week or two before planting, place seed potatoes in a warm, lighted area to stimulate sprouting. Wait until the soil outside has warmed to about 45 degrees before planting. Plant small seed potatoes whole and cut larger seed potatoes into pieces that have three or four "eyes" for growth.

In the Yakima Valley, daytime temperatures will be ideal for planting potatoes long before nighttime temperatures catch up. Potatoes are hardy plants. Tender growth that is killed by late frosts will be lost production, but the potato itself is usually hardy enough to send up more vegetative growth.

When preparing the soil make sure there is enough organic matter to break up heavy clay that can inhibit tuber growth. Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soils but do well in average soil. The most important thing is to provide good drainage so the soil doesn't become soggy and rot the seed potatoes.

Here are a few growing methods that have proven successful. It is up to the gardener to assess which will work best with the space available.

FIELD GROWING: Plant seed potatoes about 12-inches apart in rows that are spaced 2-3 feet apart. Plant seed pieces 3-4 inches deep, but don't cover completely with soil. When sprouts begin to develop, add more soil so that there is always at least 2-inches of new growth showing.

Potatoes grow between the seed piece and the surface of the soil, so adding layers of soil in intervals as new growth appears allows more crop production. While it is considered a root crop, the harvestable part of the potato plant is actually the swollen stems.

Some potato growers use black plastic to cover their row crops. This helps warm the soil temperature, discourages slugs and insects, controls weeds and shields potatoes from sunlight which stimulates the development of solanine, a bitter toxin that turns potatoes green.

HILLS OR MOUNDING: Basically the same as row planting but can be used for confined spaces. Plant three or four seed potatoes on a mound of soil. Cover lightly and pull in additional soil as the potatoes develop.

STRAW: Plant potatoes above ground in a bed of straw, and as the vines begin to grow, mound straw or mulch around the base of the plants. This results in a yield of very clean potatoes. New potatoes are harvested easily before plant maturity.

 

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When is a good time to divide perennials?

Now is the perfect time to start dividing plants that bloom in late summer and fall such as blanket flowers (Gaillardia), cone flowers (Rudbeckia) and chrysanthemums. Plants that bloom in spring and early summer, such as bleeding heart (Dicentra), sunflowers (Helianthus) and daylilies (Hemerocallis), perform best when divided in the fall. But hardy perennials can withstand division in either spring or fall as long as they are dormant or showing only vegetative growth. Just don't divide a perennial when it is blooming or producing buds.

Iris, peonies and Oriental poppies are exceptions. Wait to divide iris until late summer or early fall. Similarly, divide Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale) in late summer when they begin to produce new foliage. Peonies (Paenonia) don't like being disturbed. If you need to divide them, late summer is recommended.

Division is an easy and inexpensive way to propagate plants and helps keep perennials healthy. During division, while the plant is out of the ground it is also easy to attend to garden maintenance such as weeding, removing rotting plant parts, fertilizing the soil and if necessary, mounding the soil where the division will be replanted to keep it from sinking into a waterlogged hole.

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I have a grapevine that is growing in the wrong place. Can it be moved?

Grapevines are usually deeply rooted. While transplanting an established plant can be done it is not practical and a lot of work. If you have a favorite variety of grape, the easiest thing to do is buy a new one. With proper care and training it will begin bearing fruit in two or three years. (Patience is another sign of a veteran gardener.)

If you like your grapes but don't know the variety, you can start new plants from the old vines. Cut dormant sections of healthy growth from last year about 2-feet long with nodes no more than 6-inches apart. Bundle them together and bury them in a trench below the front line for at least six weeks or wrap them in plastic and put them in the back of the refrigerator for the same length of time. The cooling period creates calluses at the base of the cuttings. When you plant them in spring, bury the cutting up to the top bud.

Another option is to bury a 2-bud section of year-old vine without cutting it from the mother plant. Weigh it down with a rock and mulch to keep the buried part damp. Roots should form and the new plant should be strong enough to be cut from the original and transplanted a year from the time it was layered.

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How do I protect my grapes from powdery mildew?

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that appears in grayish-white patches on the underside of leaves. Leaves growing in shaded areas can be affected on both sides. Young leaves are deformed and stunted, while older leaves can show some yellow spotting. When stems become infected, they develop dark patches that later leaves a reddish discoloration. Infected flowers fail to set fruit and infected fruit develop grayish spots on the skin.

Conditions that favor powdery mildew are warm, dry, dusty days -- standard summer weather in the Yakima Valley. The spores are spread by wind and the fungus overwinters on the bark or in infected buds.

Nonchemical management options are your first line of defense. When planting new grapevines, orient them to minimize shade and to maximize air flow through the canopy. Keep established grapevines from becoming overgrown. Train and prune them to provide good air circulation and light penetration. Remove suckers and other wayward growth. If the problem persists, apply a fungicide when new growth is 6-inches long, and repeat applications at 10- to 14-day intervals. Many fungicides are copper or sulfur based, which can damage the leaves of varieties sensitive to these elements, especially "Concord". Always read and follow the directions on the product label when applying a garden chemical.

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What to do in the April garden...

	Any of the perennials that you didn't have time to divide in the fall may be divided now.
	Start by taking inventory of your garden. Walk around and try to remember what changes you wanted to make from last year. This is the time to do the transplanting and the dividing of large clumps of flowers. Decide where the divided plants will be planted and clear the ground around that area. Dig the hole for the plant making sure the ground is dug in a wide and deep enough area to accommodate the roots and size of the divided new plant. Dig up the plant to be divided and carefully divide into as many new plants as you think the area will hold, according to the size of the plant that needs to be divided. For instance, very large clumps of daisies may need to be divided into several smaller clumps. Transplant the divided clump into the new hold, making sure to fertilize and water deeply.
	If your planters, barrels and hanging baskets contain soil and roots from last year, now is the time to replace and/or amend the soil depending on how long it has been in the current container. If the container is small to medium-sized, take a tarp and spread it out on the ground. Dump the soil onto the tarp and remove the old roots and debris. Now is a good time to add new additional soil, time-released fertilizer and water retention granules. Mix soil thoroughly. Next, take the pots and wash them or spray them with a mild bleach solution, rinse and let dry. Moisten the soil and you will be ready to plant your containers when the danger of frost is past. For large containers, dig out the roots of the previously planted vegetation with a small shovel or a large trowel. Follow the same procedure as with the smaller containers, but if the soil is old, you may have to remove some or all of the soil and replenish with new soil and soil products.
	Now is the time to clean up the winter accumulation of debris that has blown into your garden and yard. Also, get out the garden tools and make sure they are in good condition. Get rid of or replace the handles on those shovels, rakes and other tools that are broken. Sharpen the edges of the metal tools and sand down the rough edges to get rid of the splinters on wooden handles.
	It is also time to check the plants that have been stored in the garage or basement such as the geraniums, fuchsias and begonias. They can be cleaned up, watered, fertilized and readied for planting in the garden.
	Now is the time to read and check the back of the seed packages you purchased to see how many days until germination time and determine whether you would like to cultivate the plants inside for transplanting later in the garden.
	Get your hoses out and check for repair or replacement possibilities. Clean your sprinkler heads and flush out the irrigation lines. This is necessary to make sure none of the lines were frozen and are broken and need to be replaced.
	Next time you go to the grocery store, buy a small spiral notebook, take a permanent marker pen and write the date "2007" across the front and under that write "Garden and Lawn Supplies". Use this notebook to make a list of all new and replacement parts and supplies that are needed to start up the sprinkler system, new plants you want to look for at the garden centers, measurements, names of products and any other information you sometimes wish you could remember when you are away from home. This notebook is a handy reference and is small enough to fit into a purse or pocket. Priceless!
	When the irrigation water is available, but not before, you can fertilize your lawn. If you allowed the lawn to grow longer over the winter, you may want to remember to reset the blade on your lawn mower for a shorter cut on its first mowing. Remember though, the rule of cutting is never to remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at one time. Start weed control before they have a chance to go to seed. Aeration and thatching can be started now in order to get better penetration of water.
	Certain plants will benefit from pruning --Roses should be pruned early in the month. Check for bugs, mildew and winter damage. Prune out winter damaged branches and limbs from shrubs and trees. Vines that are fast growing such as Silver Lace and Virginia Creeper can be trimmed back to contain their area of growth. Wait until rhododendron, camellias, forsythias and other spring-blooming shrubs have stopped blooming before pruning them, but do not wait until summer when next year's flower buds have formed. Forsythia in bloom signals the time to begin treating your lawn for crabgrass.
	Remove the faded blooms from your tulips and daffodils to help prevent them from using their energy to produce seeds. Do not remove the leaves until they turn yellow. They need exposure to the sun until they die back.
	Mildew is destructive but easily avoidable on most plants. Check to see if you have the proper placement to allow for adequate circulation and movement of air between plants. Also, if a plant requires sun, make sure it is placed properly so it has enough sunlight. If you had a mildew problem last year, watch for it this year and control it early.

 

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Last year my wisteria vine began to take over my yard. How do I keep it in better control?

Wisterias need regular pruning to control the growth and to encourage bloom. They can grow so prolifically they can take down a less than sturdy trellis. In early spring to midsummer, prune all growth to within 6-inches (four to six leaves) since these will become next year's flowering spurs. For control, prune new shoots to 6-inches every two weeks during the summer. You can still help form a central leader framework with horizontal branches at least 15-inches apart by choosing the strongest shoot to train upright against a very sturdy support. Prune laterals by one-third of their length. Training of the branches can also be done by selection and control by tying branches so they grow where they should grow.

Bring an annual pruning routine if the plant is three years old or more. For control, prune new shoots to six inches every two weeks during the summer. Before winter, prune flower spurs to 3- or 4-inches with two or four buds per spur. Remove all weak or dead wood.

A wisteria can be pruned heavily when space is a consideration. Avoid using nitrogen fertilizers as they cause vegetative growth and curtail bloom.

 

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I want to move my bulbs to a better viewing place, when is the best time to dig and move the bulbs?

The best time to move the bulbs is in the fall, when you would normally plant new bulbs. But, the next best time to move them is as the foliage begins to turn yellow and die back. When this begins to happen the plants have had time to replenish energy back to the bulb from the foliage, but the leaves are still attached, making the bulbs easy to find.

 

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I drove by a house in the lower valley and saw such a beautiful blooming bush that I went to the door to ask the owner what type of plant it was. She told me it was a tree peony. Now I am excited to find out more about them, can you help me?

The tree peony, or Paeonia 'moutan' is a plant of great beauty, great variety and great color. It doesn't die back to the ground after flowering but leaves a lovely bush with interesting foliage. It is hardy to USDA zone 4, which is a minus 30 degrees, and when properly planted requires little care with an annual top dressing of any nitrogen rich fertilizer.

It has very large, absolutely beautiful blossoms in early spring and the young leaves have shades of color from violet crimson to various shades of green. Tree peonies are not particular as to soil or position. September and October are the best months for planting, but, if planted from pots, they can be planted in the spring. They will bloom after the second or third year and will repay your neglect with a shrub that may reach 10 feet tall and produce up to 50 flowers with 10-12" blooms in varied range of colors from white to graduations of pink, crimson, yellow, carmine and purple. They often have petals striped in contrasting hues or suffused with different colors.

The specific name "moutan" is derived from the mythical Chinese flower emperor. This plant originated in northern and western China over a thousand years ago. It was taken to Japan over 700 years ago. Tree peonies are grown and enjoyed around the world and their beauty can be enjoyed in the gardens of Yakima and surrounding areas. There is a nice bed of them at the Irrigated Research Station at Prosser.

 

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I was given a Phalaenopsis orchid recently and was told I should go ahead and repot it from the store container. How do I do that?

Congratulations on receiving a beautiful, long-lived and long-blooming plant. Your friend was correct to tell you to get it out of the original store pot. Often these are planted and shipped in planting material that is designed to retain moisture for the long trip to the store and shelf-life. However, leaving them in this material will lead to their demise.

You will need to purchase a medium or fine orchid bark in which to plant your new orchid. You will also need a pot that is freely draining. Some home and garden stores sell a pot with slots in the sides which they call an orchid pot. Place some of the bark in the new pot. Gently remove the orchid from the existing pot. Carefully and very gently remove any of the planting material from the roots of the orchid. You don't want this wet material to transfer over to the new pot. Carefully spread the roots out over the new bark in the pot and they gently spread more bark over the top of these roots. Gently press this bark into the pot to secure the orchid, but be very careful to not use too much pressure. Keep in mind that the bark is basically a medium to help the orchid stand up. Water the orchid and watch that the water drains out of the pot freely. Misting regularly will make your orchid happy.

The Yakima Orchid Society is hosting an "Introduction to Orchid Growing" on Saturday, October 28th at the Yakima Area Arboretum. Class time is 10:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Call 248-7337 to reserve a spot.

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This year my New Year's resolution was to start plants from seeds. How and where do I start?

First, an important bit of information is that the average date of the last killing frost in the Yakima vicinity is the middle of May. It is earlier in the Lower Valley and later in the Upper Valley areas.

Next, on the back of the seed packet you will find instructions and it will give you information on how many days to germination and days to bloom, how deep to plant the seeds, when to thin and other guidelines for planting. A general rule of when to start plants indoors is to check the times on the back of the seed packet and estimate the time needed to grow each kind of plant from seed to transplanting size. Count back from the average date of the last killing frost in our area. This is the date you should sow the seeds to start your plants.

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I am planning my plantings for the summer and would like to have a fragrant section in my yard. Will you please help me determine some plants to be included?

There is nothing like walking through your garden and enjoying the fragrance of your own well-thought out garden.

Here is a list of a few plants you should enjoy:

	Daphne (D. cneorum 'Eximia')
	Heliotrope
	Mock orange (Philadelphus 'Belle Etoile')
	Alyssum
	Night-scented stocks (Mattiola incana)
	Wallflowers (Erysimum)
	Regal lily (Lillium regale)
	Sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis)
	Viburnum (V. x burkwoodii)

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Each year my forsythia seems to be getting taller and taller. When and how should I prune it?

Unpruned, forsythia can grow as tall as fifteen feet, creating a dense mass of trunks and limbs too shaded in the middle to grow and bloom well. When the shaded limbs and trunks die out they leave a plant that looks bedraggled and more dead than alive. Rejuvenation of the plant will take two or three years to cut it all back in one year will cause a lot of stress to the plant.

The best time to prune spring-flowering shrubs is AFTER they have bloomed, but you can prune out obviously dead wood on an overgrown shrub as soon as the new growth starts and you can tell what's still living. Prune the dead wood out at ground level. Then after it blooms, cut the top back about one-third the height of the shrub. Next, cut out about a third of the branches to ground level. This will let more light into the middle of the shrub and allow healthier growth. The new growth will provide next year's bloom.

Early next spring, follow the same procedure as you used the year before. Cut the top back one third to one half and thin out older woody trunks, leaving younger more vital wood. Continue until you have the shrub at the height you want. For annual maintenance, after bloom, thin out small weak woody stems and cut the remaining woody stems back to about a foot high. New growth will rapidly replace what you have cut out and you'll have a beautiful shrub covered with blossoms every year.

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My family is moving here from out of state with their young family. What should I be concerned about that is growing in my yard that might be harmful or poisonous to my grandchildren?

There are a number of plants that have different parts that can cause a number of serious effects to the body. Among the effects are: digestive upset, nervous excitement, depression, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, irritation of the mouth and tongue, irregular heartbeat and pulse, convulsions, difficulty with breathing, paralytic syndrome, coma, staggering and ultimately some may be fatal. Here is a list of the plants that you would have to watch carefully if young toddlers or children were left in the yard and do what young children do -- pick up almost anything to transfer to their mouths.

	Plant:	Toxic Part:
	Hyacinth, Narcissus, daffodil.........	bulbs
	Castor bean..................................	seeds
	Larkspur.......................................	young plant, seeds
	Monkshood..................................	fleshy roots
	Autumn crocus..............................	bulbs
	Star of Bethlehem.........................	bulbs
	Lily of the Valley...........................	leaves, flowers
	Iris...............................................	underground stems
	Foxglove......................................	leaves
	Bleeding Heart..............................	foliage, roots
	Sweet Pea....................................	seeds in large quantities
	Rhubarb.......................................	leaves in large amounts
	Potato..........................................	sprouts, foliage
	Tomato.........................................	leaves
	Daphne.........................................	berries
	Wisteria........................................	seeds, pods
	Golden Chain................................	bean-like capsules
	Laurels, Rhododendron.................	all parts
	Yew.............................................	berries, foliage
	Magnolia......................................	flower
	Wild and cultivated cherries...........	twigs, foliage
	Oaks............................................	foliage, acorns
	Elderberry....................................	shoots, leaves, bark
	Black Locust................................	bark, sprouts, foliage
	Holly............................................	berries

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I know we have a problem in our area with soil, weather, frost and wind just as other areas do, but what can I as a homeowner do to help protect and encourage growth of the plants I will plant?

First, try to pick the plant for the area. Plants that need sun, plant in the sun, plants that need shade, won't thrive in the sun. Aside from that, in our Zone 5 area we do have what are termed as "microclimates", which are small pockets that are colder, warmer or windier than many other areas in the valley. First observe your particular yard and watch the sun angle, wind direction daily minimum and maximum temperatures. Also, take into considering the following elements:

For wind exposure you can help modify the microclimates in your yard by planting hedges for windbreaks, trees for shade, or move plants from an unfavorable area to an area in your yard that will help them to thrive better.

If you have excessive wind, choose wind-resistant trees, shrubs and perennials. Another option is to block the wind with a hedge or a windbreak of closely spaced trees planted on the windward side that will create a sheltered area. A 10-foot tall hedge will help shelter 100 to 200 feet of ground behind it.

Masonry or stucco walls that face the sun from the south and the west will be especially hot and plants like Sedums and Zinnias might best be planted here. In this area where our summers are hot, plant trees to shade these walls, or screen walls with heat tolerant vines. Annual vines like morning glory grow quickly and have blue, dark pink or white blooms and which flower during the summer until frost.

A north wall that receives little direct sun is an ideal place to plant shade-loving plants like ferns, Solomon seal, Pacysandra, Hydrangea, Viburnum and Sweet Woodruff.

Sloping ground is another problem. On a downhill slope as the air flows downhill the cold air mixes with warm air so it is a bit warmer than the still air on the higher areas or in the valleys. Heat-loving plants planted on a south or west-facing slope pick up extra heat that helps the plant grow and usually produce earlier flowers, vegetables and fruit.

Cold-air pockets where low-lying spots allow cold air to pool are another problem. Chilled air can also be blocked behind structures and landscaping elements like hedges. Frost-tender plants that need heat don't belong in cold pockets. You may lose them to frost, or hinder their growth with cool or colder temperatures. Such spots can be used to advantage where extra chill encourages plants such as lilacs to bloom.

East wall, although it can get up to half a day of sunshine, the sun is less intense here than on a west-facing wall. This makes a perfect place for plants that like plenty of light but not much heat.

Overhanging eaves protect delicate flowers from shattering or burning while providing a couple of degrees of frost protection for tender plants underneath. Remember to irrigate under overhangs.

Shade trees form a canopy of leaves, or, overhead structures with latticework as with an arbor, casts filtered shade preferred by hostas, impatiens and many other shade-loving plants.

Dry banks have fast draining soil that is prone to erosion. Cover these banks with heat and drought tolerant ground covers such as ice plant, sedum, penstemon or salvia.

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What is the difference between 'determinate' and 'indeterminate' that I see in reference to tomato plants?

The terms determinate and indeterminate refer to the growth patterns that tomato plants have. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow throughout the season. A healthy, staked indeterminate tomato could easily grow to be 6- to 10- feet or taller. Indeterminate tomatoes produce most of their blossoms in the leaf axils. Once they begin blooming, they continue blooming and producing tomatoes right up to the first hard frost of the fall.

Indeterminates are the most often grown tomatoes in backyard gardens. Early Girl, Beefsteak, Better Boy and Super Fantastic are among the indeterminates that are available in the Yakima Valley.

On the other hand, determinate tomato plants produce their blossoms on the branch ends and then neither grows much more nor produces new blossoms. Determinate tomatoes are sometimes bush tomatoes because of their small stature and they produce their entire crop in a few short weeks, which is what commercial canneries need, but not what the home gardener generally desires.

There are a few intermediate determinate tomatoes, notably Celebrity, which continues to bloom throughout the season. It is a highly recommended tomato for the home gardener and is available in many gardening centers. It produces an excellent tasting fruit that averages about a half-pound.

 

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Can sunflowers be started indoors? Is there much time gain in doing so?

While sunflowers will germinate in relatively cool soil, there are advantages to starting the seeds indoors. The main advantage is that you know what you have when you head for the garden, trowels and plants in hand. You will not be faced with blank spots in the bed or trying to decide whether and how much to thin them when they come up too quickly.

Sow the seed 1-inch deep in 4-inch peat pots about 4 to 5 weeks before the last expected frost date. Keep them moist enough to germinate, but not soggy. When setting them out, make sure to cover the tops of the peat pots with soil or carefully tear away just the rim. If the top of the pot is exposed to air, it will "wick" the moisture away from the plant's roots. Restrain yourself from planting more closely than is recommended for the variety. Air movement between the plants will lessen the likelihood of fungal infection.

If you desire a lot of sunflowers and have the space, you may want to try the perennial sunflower, Helianthus maximilliannii. "Max" grows from 5 to 8 feet tall and being bushy and somewhat floppy, takes almost as much room side to side. It has bluish-green, willow-like leaves that make it attractive all summer. In late summer it blooms with clusters of 3-inch "daisies" which go on until frost. The flowers attracts butterflies and birds love the seeds. "Max" is available in started plants or in seeds. It may take a little searching, but it is worth the effort.

 

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Can too much rototilling damage my garden?

If you are talking about an established garden, where you have added humus in each year and worked it in with a shovel, then very little rototilling needs to be done. Good soil maintains proper space between particles for air and water. So, over-tilling of any kind can break down its structure.

Rototilling to the same depth over time will create hardpan where the tines reach deepest and eventually will interfere with or stop root growth. Making one or two passes with your tiller or turning over the soil once or twice with a spade should be sufficient.

 

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I have some large areas on which I would like to put some plants that spread. Can you help me?

Here are some seed spreaders:

Forget-me-nots (Myosotis)	These plants with little blue flowers persist for years as they self-sow. They are easy to pull where you don't want them.
Johnny-jump-up (Viola tricolor)	This petite-flowered member of the viola clan is a relentless re-seeding plant and is also an edible blossom. It is easy to pull or hoe. It likes the cooler weather of spring and will seem to die back and disappear but shows up when the weather cools down again in the fall.
Jupiter's Beard (Centranthus rubber)	This plant self-sows prolifically and has small dandelion-like parachutes on the seeds. Plant in a fringe area and when you feel you have covered the area you want covered, cut off old flowering stems to prevent self-seeding.
Stolon-spreaders -- False Dragonhead or Obedient Plant (Physostegia virginiana)	This plant has pink, lavender or white flower spikes resembling snapdragons - it's obedient only in that blossoms stay in place when twisted. To keep clumps within bounds, divide them every two years in the spring.
Garden asters	Hardy, small-flowered types
Indian mock strawberry (Duchesnea indica)	A trailing ground cover with wiry stems that root; thrives among open shrubs or small trees. Flowers are yellow and single petaled; berries are small, nearly tasteless. Can be a rampant invader. If you must grow it, confine it to big pots with saucers and display it on a paved patio.
Mexican evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa)	Pink, poppy-like flowers bloom profusely in spring and summer. Will grow downhill following water. Grow in raised beds or in planting pockets.
Periwinkle (Vinca major)	This blue, burgundy or white flowered ground cover has trailing stems that root wherever they touch the ground (useful on banks). It grows rapidly in sheltered areas. Dwarf periwinkle (Vinca minor) is less invasive.
Russian sage (Perovskia)	A woody perennial with lavender/blue spires and spreads rapidly even in arid soil. Sends up whip-like shoots of silvery leaves. They are difficult to pull when established.
Sweet violet (Viola odorata)	This spring blooming heart-shaped leaved plant has purple, lavender, white or mixed colored flowers. The flowers are fragrant and make sweet bouquets. It is a great ground cover and quickly carpets land where soil is moist and trees create semi-shade. It is easy to pull.
Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum)	This plant is a low ground cover with pretty green leaves and fragrant white flowers. This plant spreads rapidly in moist, shaded gardens.

 

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What are some of the beneficial insects I want to have in my garden?

Probably the most widely known is the Ladybug or Lady Beetle. They love to eat aphids and other soft-bodied insects in quantity. But, if you release too many ladybugs at one time in one place most of them will emigrate and may head back to the mountains where they came from. To avoid this, release some under row cover stretched over infested plants, or at night, or by providing an alternate food such as nectar or pollen until they become established.

Green Lacewings (the name describes the adult's appearance) are about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch long, are voracious eaters of aphids, small caterpillars, mites, insect eggs and other soft-bodied insects. They will generally stay in the area when released.

Damsel bugs (Nabidae) are slender, gray or tan insects common to our northwest area. They over-winter in weeds, grain or alfalfa fields. The adult is about 3/8 of an inch long and feeds by sucking out the body contents of aphids or lygus bugs.

Many other predator insects are very specific about what they will consume. Cryptolaemus for instance, a small Australian Lady Beetle with an orange head and black body feeds mostly on mealy bugs. The two-spotted Stink Bug (Pentatomidae) -- usually black with reddish markings on its back -- feeds on caterpillars and beetle larvae and is an especially important predator of Colorado Potato Beetle larvae. Crab spiders (Thomisidae) and wolf spiders (Lycosidae) are two other important predators of insect pests.

There are even some predator mites and flies, but to be able to recognize these, we suggest you pick up a copy of bulletin number PNW343, "Beneficial Organisms" at the Extension office for a nominal fee. It has color pictures and excellent descriptions of many of the more common beneficial insects. Remember, only a very small number of our many insects are harmful. Most of these harmful insects are kept in control by natural predators. So, in our quest to make our gardens insect free, make sure not to kill the predators too.

 

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I have moved to Yakima from the Seattle area where we had beautiful azaleas and rhododendrons. Will they grow in Yakima?

Even though we associate azaleas and rhododendrons with the mild, moist climate of western Washington members of these two rhododendron species can thrive in our area. You can have success if you are careful to follow some general guidelines.

To begin with, walk around your yard to see if you have a spot for the rhody, one where the plant will have protection from the winter's sun and wind and from summer's hot afternoon sun. Locations in the filtered shade of taller trees and on the east or north sides of buildings and fences are best.

Once you have selected the site, check out the soil. Rhododendrons and azaleas need a moist, fertile organic soil, acidic in pH. Since they like air in the root zone as well a moisture, you want a soil that drains rapidly and yet retains moisture. If your soil is lacking in organic matter, add something like peat moss which also helps make our alkaline soil more acidic. About one cup of soil sulfur per planting site will aid in making soil acidic. This may be obtained at a grower's supply outlet.

Another way to meet these soil needs is with a raised bed, one that is about 12-inches above ground level. Mix organic material in the top soil then fill the raised bed with a mix of about 50% peat moss, 20% sand and 30% garden soil. It takes more time, but it is worth it to meet the rhododendron's requirements for drainage.

Now select your plants. First of all, choose varieties that are designated H1 for hardiness to at least -10F and varieties that meet your size and color requirements. Your nurseryman should be able to supply this information. You can also check hardiness rating growth patterns and bloom color in a book such as Sunset's Bulletin #1579, "Landscape Plants for the Inland Northwest". Not only will you find which of these species grow best but you will learn of other landscape plant materials suited to this area. For example, Rhody species hardy to -25F include: "Northern Lights" azaleas; "Pioneer", "Nova Zembia" and Boule de Niege".

Plant the azalea or rhododendron with the top of the root ball slightly above soil level. Take care not to have soil wash in and bury the stems. These plants have surface roots and like a mulch of pine needles or bark. Resist cultivating because the roots may be damaged.

Fertilize when growth starts in the spring, at bloom time or immediately after and repeat at monthly intervals until August. Use a commercial acid fertilizer. Follow the directions on the label. To be extra safe, you can cut the portions in half and feed twice as often. Remember to provide adequate moisture. On those hot dry summer days an additional early morning spray or misting of the entire plant is helpful.

Having made informed choices as to plant variety, site, soil preparation and planting, enjoy your rhododendron for years to come. Extension bulletins are available for a small fee from WSU Extension, Room 233 in the Yakima County Courthouse.

 

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I have an Oregon Grape that has taken over my flower bed. How do I get rid of it?

The Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquilifolim) can grow quite large and in the right location is a very useful plant. It has glossy green leaves, bronzing in cooler weather and striking yellow flowers in late spring and early summer followed by blue-black fruit. It attracts butterflies and birds, tolerates shade and drought and is deer resistant. It is a good groundcover on banks and grows well under trees. But yes, it can become a nuisance when it grows out of bounds.

To eradicate Oregon Grape, you must dig, pull and cut as many of the running shoots as you possibly can, then spray any emerging shoots with Roundup. This will take time, labor and dedication, but it will eventually work.

 

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What to do in the garden in May.

On your mark - get set - GO! That's what gardening is about in May -- a million things to do and usually too little time to do them. It's a joyful, energetic time when everything is bursting out of the earth and out of the bud. Let the excitement in nature energize your efforts in the garden - but, be kind to your back which has probably been hibernating.

Here are a few ideas for things to do in our gardens in May:

	Deadhead spring blooming bulbs to prevent energy from going toward seed production. However, let the foliage grow until it starts to dry out. This is how energy is manufactured and stored for next year's flowers and it is essential to the ongoing health of the bulb. Do not fertilize your bulbs heavily right now as it can make bulbs susceptible to disease. Fall and early spring are the right times to fertilize spring bulbs.
	Deadhead and/or begin replacing cold weather flowers like pansies and primroses as the blossoms begin to fade.
	Give everything a good feeding with compost or an appropriate commercial fertilizer to get things off to a good start. If you have areas where you are concerned about soil health, you might consider doing a soil test to determine fertility and/or pH levels. Simple soil test kits are available at garden centers or you can have the testing done in a commercial lab.
	Divide crowded perennials and replant or share divisions with a friend. Remember to water divided plants often until they are again well established.
	If you don't have a full-scale irrigation system, visualize how you will water your garden this year and think about changes that will lighten the hose-dragging chores. Put in a new spigot at a strategic spot, add some weeping hoses just under the soil, add a timer to the system or just buy a new sprinkler that has a nice big watering range. Sometimes it is the little things that make your gardening more enjoyable and less work.
	Dig in your summer bulbs. Now is the time to plant dahlias, gladiolus and other summer show stoppers
	Put stakes in the ground to support tall plants (like dahlias and gladiolus) as they grow. Setting stakes is more difficult when gardens are in their summer fullness, so do it now.
	Weed, weed, weed! Right now there are lots of weeds setting seed. One of the best ways to prevent weeds in your garden is to get rid of them before they go to seed. Pull them, pick off the flowers, use your line-trimmer to shear off the flower heads, just don't let them spread their seeds. You will have to be persistent but the pay-back will be fewer weeds later on. Don't wait too long because many weeds have set viable seeds by the time the flower is fully open. Get rid of them early!
	Now is the time to prune spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia and flowering quince. Pruning right after the blooms fade will ensure that next year's blooms which will form on this summer's growth, will not be compromised by a late summer haircut.
	If you haven't gotten started already, plant your veggie garden. There may still be some frosty nights, but everything except warm weather plants (like tomatoes, corn and melons) could be seeded or planted out now with little risk. Be sure any plant starts that you set out are "hardened off" (gradually acclimated to the outdoor weather) before you plant them out with no protection.
	If you have troubles in your garden with powdery mildew, don't wait until it is out of control. Spray with a good quality fungicide and then repeat application as directed on the label.
	Consider mulching this year. As the soil warms, mulching will conserve moisture in your beds and it will help keep down the weeds.
	Plant annual bedding plants.
	Plant or transplant trees and shrubs before the heat of summer.
	Turn the compost.
	Water regularly, especially new plantings. If it rains, check to make sure the ground is wetted deeply before dispensing with normal watering.
	Treat yourself to one great new plant while the selection is still good. Pull it out of the pot while you're still at the nursery and make sure the roots are healthy and not rootbound.

Happy Gardening!!

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I want to grow some vegetables but have only two small flower beds and I don't want to give up my color. What can I do?

You can still grow some vegetables. There is probably some space in your flower beds where you could squeeze in some favorites. How about some beautiful Swiss chard, purple cabbage, red beets and long lean onions. You could do some succession planting which simply means that when you harvest one crop you plant another and you could do that in your flower bed too. And, look around at other spaces. Do you have a deck big enough for some large containers? They are wonderful for a good variety of herbs such as chives, thyme, basil, borage and dill. They look beautiful and you can keep harvesting and they will keep producing for you. How about some boxes or barrels by the garage? They don't have to look pretty to produce potatoes or some sprawling vines of cucumbers or squash. Don't forget to check out the fence or trellis at the back of your property. Maybe you could grow some tall corn right by the fence and have pumpkins at the base of the corn.

 

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My neighbor gave me some Crocosmia bulbs and I don't know how deep to plant them. Can you help?

Crocosmia is a summer blooming bulb that is planted now for beautiful yellow, orange or red blooms. A good rule of thumb for depth of the bulbs is to do a little math. You should plant summer blooming bulbs, corms or rhizomes at a depth that is three times the widest diameter of the bulb. The only exception to this is dahlias which require a deeper hole. They all look nice planted in groups of three or more for a clump effect. Crocosmia are a bit sensitive to winter cold so it is advised to either dig them or mulch heavily before winter.

 

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How much sun do I need for a vegetable garden? Will they grow in the shade?

At a minimum, most vegetables need six hours of full sun every day and without it many will be sparse or be of poor quality. Ideally the garden should face the south for best results. There are some vegetables that can tolerate some shade but even these need sun. Consider beets, broccoli, cabbage, leeks, lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard and turnips. Take a look at your yard and try to help the sun situation. Can you use use another area of the yard? Would pruning some overgrown shrubs help let in some light? Do you have something, or can you build something that some vining-type vegetables could grow up on to reach sunlight better?

 

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Is it time to plant my tomatoes? Will there still be frost?

The last average frost date for Yakima County is May 15th, but remember that that is an average which means we have had the last date be much sooner and later too. Check the long-range forecast and use that as a guide. There are other helpful ideas to help you too, such as using many kinds of caps for frost protection. Check your favorite garden shop for ideas or be creative and make your own so you will be ready for those possible cold nights.

 

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Can sunflowers be started indoors? Is there much time gain in doing so?

While sunflowers will germinate in relatively cool soil, there are advantages to starting the seeds indoors. The main advantage is that you know what you have when you head for the garden with trowel and plants in hand. You will not be faced with blank spots in the bed or trying to decide whether and how much to thin them when they come up too thickly.

Sow the seeds 1-inch deep in 4-inch pots about 4- to 5-weeks before the last expected frost date. Keep them moist enough to germinate but not soggy. When setting them out, make sure to cover the tops of the peat pots with soil or carefully tear away just the rim. If the top of the pot is exposed to air, it will "wick" the moisture away from the plant's roots. Restrain yourself from planting more closely than is recommended for the variety. Air movement between the plants will lessen the likelihood of fungal infection.

If you desire a lot of sunflowers and have the space, you may want to try the perennial sunflower, Helianthus maximilliannii. "Max" grows from 5- to 8-feet tall and being bushy and somewhat floppy, takes almost as much room side-to-side. It has bluish-green willow-like leaves that make it attractive all summer. In late summer it blooms with clusters of 3-inch "daisies" which go on until frost. The flowers attract butterflies and birds love the seeds. "Max" is available in started plants or in seeds. It may take a little searching, but it is worth the effort.

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What can I do to help keep plant diseases out of my vegetable garden this year?

Here are 10 suggestions (revised from a Delaware Extension Service publication by a coordinator at OSU).

1.	Select locations suited to the plant's needs. Sun lovers in the sun, shade lovers in the shade, etc. Most plants need good drainage, so avoid wet soils that may cause root diseases.
2.	Rotate plants yearly. If possible, occasionally change your garden's location to prevent the buildup of disease organisms in the soil.
3.	Plant disease-resistant varieties when you can; plan early if you can't get them locally, order from catalogs that will say "disease resistant" or "mildew resistant" in the description.
4.	Use only disease-free seed and transplants from reputable dealers. Accept bargain and free seeds and plants at your own risk.
5.	Since plants may become too weak or too vigorous because of improper fertilization and thus more disease-prone, test your soil and fertilize as needed.
6.	Crowding plants may create high humidity beneath the canopy, which favors mildew and Botrytis blight. Thin plants to permit free air circulation.
7.	Water evenly avoiding dry and wet fluctuations which is a sure recipe for tomato end rot. Too much moisture, if it lingers on the plant, favors disease so water early in the day and water the ground not the leaves, if possible.
8.	Control weeds. They help create a microclimate ideal for fungus and bacterial diseases and may be the source of certain viruses.
9.	Control insect pests which may carry and spread viruses and bacterial diseases. But, be careful about spraying because if you wipe out the harmful bug's natural predators, you may end up with more destructive bugs than you started with.
10.	Destroy diseased plants lest they serve as a source of further disease or spread disease to other plants. Don't compost them since disease organisms can live on in the compost; instead remove and destroy them.

 

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What can I do to prevent crabgrass from growing in my lawn this summer?

Both hair crabgrass and smooth crabgrass grow east of the Cascades; both can be controlled by applying a pre-emergent herbicide before their seeds germinate in the spring, when the soil temperatures approach 70°. After forsythia blooms and before lilacs begin to bloom.

The pre-emergent weed killer/herbicide to use is Dacthal, available as Ultragreen Crabgrass Control and Lawn Food™ by Lilly Miller and Turfbuilder+ for Lawn Crabgrass Control™ by Scotts. Follow label directions to zap the seeds before germination. Timing is critical for the herbicide is active for only about six weeks.

It is probably impossible to eliminate crabgrass completely in just one year since many seeds were produced last summer and deposited on your lawn. This is especially true if you use a mulching or recycling mower that places every mature seed back on your lawn. To increase control, apply the Dacthal twice -- when the forsythia begins to bloom and again when the lilacs are in full bloom (the label says another application can be made in eight weeks). That may seem wasteful but what one should do is apply the control mainly where the infestation occurred last year. Make a map of the problem areas this summer and put the Dacthal on them next spring.

You can make those crabgrass seeds that do germinate unhappy by keeping your lawn fertilized and cutting it a little higher - at about 2 1/2 inches. If some plants still make it to midsummer, there's another product you can use. It is Crabgrass Killer. It may take several applications but it does work. You must kill the plants before they can produce seeds. If you miss some, make a new map and tackle the crabgrass problem again later.

 

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I have seen a number of spiders around my home and garden and was told the hobo spider is one I should watch out for. Are they dangerous and how do I identify them?

The hobo spider, Tegenaria agrestis, or the aggressive house spider, is a common funnel-web spider found in the Pacific Northwest. As the name implies, it can be aggressive when threatened.

They spin funnel-shaped, non-sticky webs in corners in dark areas such as basements or in woodpiles, window casings, along home foundations or in siding. They are not great climbers so are usually found only on floors and lower levels. The aggressive house spider is one of the more prevalent arachnids in basements and window casings. The spider sits in the mouth of the web waiting for prey to trip, then attacks and kills the prey. Because of poor eyesight they are more prone to attack humans than are other spiders. When trapped in bedding or clothing they will feel threatened and may attack.

The bite of this arachnid is not particularly painful at first, producing a small, hard area within the first 30-minutes, then an expanding reddened area surrounds the bite. Bites can result in ulceration of the skin, even necrosis and can require surgery for repair. Other symptoms may include a headache that is not alleviated by aspirin and may last up to 7-days along with nausea and flu-like symptoms.

The hobo spider ranges in size from 1-inch to 1 3/4-inches with an elongated body shape and relatively long legs. It is a very quick-moving spider with color ranging from light to dark brown. They are often confused with the non-agressive common house spider that is similar in size and shape. The distinctive features of the aggressive house spider are the chevrons on the rear end (abdomen) and the lack of rings on the legs.

Tegenaria agrestis are more commonly abundant from midsummer through the fall when the mature males can roam great distances in search of females. However, the immature hobo spiders can be spotted in the spring in pursuit of nesting sites.

For more information on the hobo spider and others, plus helpful photographs, EB1548, "Spiders" is available at the WSU Extension Office in the Yakima County Courthouse for a nominal fee. Also, at the Extension Office there is a display of insects that have been encapsulated in resin so they may be viewed and identified by the curious learner of insects and bugs.

 

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I would like to grow some flowers and dry them for arrangements and other crafts. What types of flowers are good for drying and how do you dry them?

There are so many wonderful kinds of flowers and foliage that can be preserved and used year round. Drying flowers and foliage from your garden is one way of enjoying the fruits of your gardening labors all year round. Below are a few methods for drying and some suggestions for varieties of flowers and greenery.

There are several kinds of flowers that practically dry themselves. Statice, hydrangeas, baby's breath, strawflowers, cattails and pussywillows need only be put in a vase with no water and given time they will dry beautifully. For best results, pick flowers when they are just fully opened. The exception to this is hydrangeas; leave them on the bush until they are beginning to age and dry out a little.

Other varieties give good results with a simple upside-down, air-drying method. Yarrow, roses, larkspur, Celosia, dock, goldenrod, heather and Russian sage are some examples of flowers that dry well in this way. But, don't be afraid to experiment with others.

Pressing is an age-old method with very romantic undertones. Visualize a violet from a lover's bouquet pressed forever between the pages of a volume of sonnets. Now if that's not romantic -- what is? Use pansies, periwinkle, larkspur, ferns, dusty miller or any flower or leaf that is not excessively fleshy. The beauty of this method is that many weeds that grow up in the spring and early summer are perfect candidates - purple mustard, buttercups, blackberry, purple vetch and sweet peas (press the flowers, leaves and tendrils) or any similar flowers or leaves. Foliage with tendrils is especially lovely. If you don't have any pretty weeds in your yard, take a walk --I guarantee you will find some.

Some kinds of foliage will readily take up a glycerin/water mixture into their leaves making them flexible and long-lasting. Magnolia leaves, eucalyptus, boxwood, beech, camellia, oak and rhododendron all respond to this treatment.

Desiccants are materials in which a flower or foliage is imbedded during the drying process. Plant materials dried in desiccants are more realistic looking and flexible than those which have been air-dried. Silica-gel granules or a mixture of borax and either white cornmeal or clean sand are some commonly used desiccants. Drying flowers in a desiccant takes about 2 weeks or a couple minutes in the microwave, then wait a day before removing the flower from the drying material. Experiment, nearly any kind of plant material dries will in a desiccant.

Here are a few more tips to help ensure success:

Air-drying method: Strip off leaves and hang flowers upside-down in a warm, dry area away from sun. Use rubber bands to secure stems together. Flowers that are air-dried can be extremely stiff and brittle and must be handled carefully. Blue and yellow flowers retain their colors better than pink ones which fade to tan. The right time to pick flowers for air-drying is just before they are fully open.

Pressing: Great results can be obtained with just a little paper and a good (meaning large and heavy) book. Slip folded paper into the book. Put the flowers and foliage between the paper and then close the book and wait a few weeks -- simple method -- beautiful results. When your pressed flowers are dry and ready to use, try decorating the mat in a picture frame with them. Use just a touch of craft glue on the end of a toothpick to secure them. Start at the four corners and then arrange something nice at the top.

Glycerin: Cut branches 18-inches or less and mash the stem-end with a hammer. Place the stems in a warm mixture of glycerin and water (1:2 by volume). Refill the container as the mixture is drawn into the plants. You will know they are done when the leaves turn golden brown (in two or three weeks).

Desiccants: Silica-gel granules absorb moisture which makes them an excellent drying material. Borax mixed with either cornmeal or clean sand in a ratio of 2:1 is also affective and less expensive. You can find directions for using desiccants in craft books or on the Internet. Flowers should be picked when they are not yet fully open.

 

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How do I keep grass from infiltrating my flower beds and borders?

Such a simple question - such a difficult problem. There is nothing quite as frustrating as the scraggly grass that comes up in beautiful mounds of perennial ground cover or beds of iris, daylilies, lavender or other perennials. It is hard to get rid of, but if you know the enemy your chances of success will be greatly increased.

Know Your Enemy!! Some grasses are annuals that grow each year from seed. These can be pulled relatively easily or hoed out when they are young. It is perennial grass that gives us such trouble in our flower beds. Perennial grasses persistently send roots out into and across flower beds and borders. You can pull it out but it will re-grow at any spot where a little piece of the root is left in the ground. Once the roots are intertwined with your permanent plantings it is next to impossible to get all the roots out.

A Clean Start -- The best way to keep perennial grass out of your flower beds is to start with clean ground. When preparing beds for planting, carefully comb the cultivated soil for any little pieces of grass root. Put them in the garbage and not the compost heap. Whenever dividing perennials or moving plants, take the time to clean grass roots out of the root ball and surrounding soil. Moisten the soil before starting so roots will pull out more easily.

Outline Beds with a Mechanical Barrier -- Because perennial grass (your lawn) probably borders your flower beds, it is wise to create a mechanical barrier to prevent the grass roots from infiltrating into surrounding areas. Rocks, bricks, cement curbs, lengths of wood and commercial plastic borders are some commonly used materials. The important thing is that the barrier is dug down into the soil at least eight inches or deeper. This barrier should be as solid as possible. Place bricks and rocks close together.

Mulches and Landscaping Fabrics -- Mulching in areas where grass is a problem can give good control. Use overlapping layers (15 or 20 sheets) of newspaper, a good quality landscaping fabric or just a thick layer of mulching material for good control of existing grass and weed problems. Cover the paper or fabric with a thick layer of bark, dry grass clippings, compost or other mulching material to keep paper in place and protect fabric from the degrading effects of the sun. One thing to note about landscaping fabrics - they are useful for smothering weeds underneath them, but weed seeds can still germinate and grow in the bark or mulch on top of them. If these weeds are allowed to grow their roots will become enmeshed in the fabric and become very hard to pull.

Chemical Control --there are selective herbicides that are specifically used for killing grass. Although these may be useful in some situations they should be used carefully and as a last resort. Please read and follow all labels and instructions. There are some plants such as iris, which has a grass-like structure, which these herbicides will kill. One of our very clever Master Gardeners uses a foam brush to paint the grass with herbicide while shielding her bedding plants with cardboard. If you use this method, wear disposable gloves and wash up carefully before handling other plants. It may be that the most useful chemical treatment might be limited spraying around the edge of established mechanical borders to keep grass from crossing over into beds.

Once you have the upper hand, be vigilant and use preventative methods. Eradicating grass forever from your flower beds is probably not a possibility, however, good control is possible.

 

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How can I get my kids interested in gardening?

Most children love to garden as long as (here is the important part) the garden is theirs. The joyful thing about a garden is that it becomes a reflection of the gardener. Children may not be that interested in working in your garden but give them their own little spot of ground and a box of your seed packets and watch the gardener emerge. A raised bed is the perfect garden for a child -- it is a kingdom with a border. Don't be too long on advice at first -- just some basics to help them get the seeds in the ground and some plants up out of the ground. Let them experience some things and ask some questions.

A vase of red poppies on the table or a 2-foot long zucchini (bake zucchini bread) or one of their own pumpkins to carve at Halloween time is reward for their labors and incentive to continue to have their own relationship with the good earth.

 

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What to do in the June garden....

	Don't get impatient. Remove yellowed, brown bulb foliage as it pulls off without resistance -- no sooner.
	Did you have tulip and/or hyacinth bulbs that provided a disappointing bloom? If so, dig and discard these poor performers now. Most tulips and hyacinths produce well 2-3 years then begin to decline.
	Daffodil clusters typically benefit from being divided approximately every three years. If this would apply to your plantings, once the foliage of your daffodils has died back, you may divide and use the surplus bulbs to create additional areas of spring color next year.
	A photo journal of your bulb plantings during bloom is a great reference tool. If blooms slipped by without getting a chance to use this memory booster, make a map or other notation of where and what bulbs to replace next fall. The maps and notes will provide a valuable tool when you are buying and planting replacement bulbs.
	Mulch does matter. If you haven't already, apply a mulch layer to your flowers beds, trees and shrubs. Mulch reduces weed germination, conserves moisture and adds important organic matter to you soil.
	Continue monitoring your new plantings, making sure they are well-watered.
	Do you enjoy compact, busy chrysanthemums? To promote bushy, well-flowering plants, pinch off the last inch or so of the branches. You can continue pinching back into the month of July. While you are in the pinch back mode, cut back asters and other tall, floppy, late-summer bloomers by about 1/3 once they are a foot or so high. The plant will be sturdier and should produce more flowers.
	Thoughtful use of stakes and supports in your garden help enhance and preserve its capacity to provide visual satisfaction and is typically beneficial to the plant and its neighbors. Monitor your garden, staking tall growing or otherwise less self-supporting plants before they break, bend or distort.
	Stop cutting asparagus and rhubarb so they can rejuvenate their capacity to give maximum production of their taste treat next year.
	Keep deadheading. To promote an abundance of flowers and the side benefit of a tidy garden, make deadheading part of your daily routine. Roses are at their spring high water mark for color, deadheading is especially important to keep the blooms going longer.
	Inspect your irrigation system. This check should include not only an inspection for clogged or broken sprinkler heads, but also gaps in coverage. Has a plant grown thick and tall, blocking good water coverage to its neighbor?
	This has been a cool spring. Be sure to be on "mildew patrol" regularly. Catching and treating breakouts of mildew is very important. Beyond planting mildew resistant strains, chemical control is probably the most effective defense. If necessary, secure a mildew control product from your nursery and plan on successive applications. As always, read and follow the directions provided on the product label.
	Was your spring something less than a gardener's delight? Not enough garden time? "Color Spots" may be a quick and easy fix. Color spots are easy care, blooming size annuals that nurseries sell in 4" pots. Select enough plants to provide a strong color splash. Prepare the soil, water the plants before you remove them from their pots; plant the color spots at the recommended spacing; water them again. Result: instant color!!
	If the weather becomes hot and dry, don't forget to raise the cutting height of your mower. Also, make sure to keep your mower blades sharp for a healthier and more attractive lawn.
	Be tenacious in your weed control. Pulling weeds before they have a chance to go to seed will provide great dividends in time saved in the long run.
	Four to eight weeks after your iris blossoms are but a memory, cut the leaves down to a few inches above ground level. You may also divide and replant at this time as well. In replanting, be sure to put the rhizome at ground level; don't bury it. Iris typically needs to be divided every three years. Is this the year for you?
	Properly space and thin your vegetable seedlings to get optimum yields.
	Harvest green beans, peas and other spring vegetables regularly. This will keep them producing.
	Give your bedding plants and annuals a boost with a high nitrogen fertilizer. This will promote strong growth. However, follow-up by pinching the plants back as growth kicks in from the fertilizer. This will encourage compact, sturdy stems.
	As long as a perennial is not a spring or early summer bloomer and as long as the foliage is not more than 5 or 6 inch's high, you still have time to divide the plant. You will want to do this if your perennials are getting crowded (reduced blooms, a dead spot in the middle of the plant cluster, etc.) or you simply want more plants.
	Continue composting. It is a great way to reduce the kitchen and yard waste that you send to the landfill. Your compost enhanced garden soil will pay you wonderful dividends.
	You have worked hard in your yard, so be sure to take time to relax and enjoy it!

 

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I think I understand the importance of building the organic matter component in soil, but my plant vigor is telling me I have a problem. Although I have been adding amendments to my garden soil, the plants are not responding. In fact, they are possibly less robust than if I had done nothing. What am I missing?

Your efforts to build soil organic matter are applauded. They are probably the most important thing you can do to enhance long-term soil performance. However, adding certain types of organic matter that is still busy decomposing can trigger a nitrogen deficiency, at least for the short term.

Potential nitrogen deficiency evolves through the following process: Plants depend on microbes to break down organic matter and make nutrients available to them. Most microbes get energy from carbon compounds. Mixing organic material into the soil triggers a feeding frenzy and an explosion of microbial growth. To grow, these microbes need carbon for energy and nitrogen to build proteins. For every twenty to thirty carbon atoms they consume, they use about one nitrogen atom. If that nitrogen is not available from the newly-added organic material, microbes will take it from the he soil, depriving growing plants of needed nitrogen. Long term, the nitrogen is not lost from the soil. It is simply preset in the cells of the microbes and largely unavailable to plants. Ultimately, microbial activity will slow when the remaining compounds decay at a very slow rate. It is at this time the nitrogen from the dying microbes becomes available to plants.

Not all soil organic matter is created equal. Fruit and vegetable wastes quickly degrade because they contain mostly simple carbohydrates (sugar and starches). In contrast, leaves, stems, nutshells, bark and wood chips decompose more slowly because of the chemical profile. And remember, since soil microorganisms require nitrogen for their growth, the process of degrading fresh organic matter in the soil sometimes can cause nitrogen deficiency for plants. Perhaps the safest approach is the use of well-composted organic materials. They decompose slowly when added to soil because they have already undergone a significant amount of decomposition during the composting process and thereby carry less potential to compete with the plants for nitrogen. In any case, you may wish to complement your mission of building organic matter with a supplementary nitrogen fertilization program.

Is it worth it? Yes, soil organic matter affects soil quality in many ways, including the following:

• Stores and supplies plant nutrients (N P K and micro-nutrients).
• Stabilizes and holds soil particles together as aggregates.
• Helps soil to resist compaction, promotes water infiltration and reduces runoff.
• Aids your plant's growth by improving the soil's ability to store and transmit air and water.
• Makes soil more friable and easier to work so the plant roots can penetrate the soil profile better.
• Provides a source of carbon and energy for soil microbes which cycle nutrients and fights plant diseases.
• Reduces the negative environmental effects of pesticides and other pollutants by binding contaminants.

How long does it take? Building organic matter is a slow process. As the amount of residue and active organic matter increases, the species and the diversity of organisms in the soil will gradually change and the amounts of stabilized organic matter will rise. While it may take a number of years for total organic matter levels to increase substantially, the beneficial effects of the changes appear long before. Patience and an occasional supportive/supplementary nitrogen fix will take you to your goal.

 

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How can I deal with the grass that invades my flower and vegetable beds? Some of it is lawn grass that is encroaching and other grasses are the weedy type like cheat and quack grass.

We need three different answers to this question. Cheat grass is an annual that blooms early and is annoying, but can easily be pulled up or hoed out. The proper name for it is downey brome. It has a seed head that can cause problems with dog's feet or ears so you should try to eliminate it. It is an annual and spreads by seeds, so if it has seed heads on it, do not compost it but put it in the garbage.

Quack grass is spread by rhizomes and you should not try to chop it out or use a tiller as this cuts the rhizomes and spreads it more. You could wet the area and then when it is damp but not muddy, push a shovel down beside the clump and try to get all the roots out. You will have to be diligent with this and do it several times. This is hard work but can be effective if the grass has not grown into the clumps of perennials or vegetables. If that happens, it may be worth your while to remove the plants at the end of the growing season, water well and when more grass comes up, spray it with some herbicide such as Roundup to kill the rest of it. If you put the perennials back into the bed, clean off most of the soil at their roots and look for the rhizomes that might be hiding there. Remember to not let the root zone dry out on your plants. If you think you have a serious problem with quack grass and have more of it than the plant material that you want there it might be worth your while to abandon the area for one year and kill it with herbicides several times. You could also try a solar method which simply means putting down some plastic that covers the whole area and the heat will do a pretty good job of getting rid of the weeds in that area.

And the last part of this question about lawn grass sneaking into your beds. Try these solutions: Dig down and install a barrier. You could use metal, concrete or edging material to help stop grass from invading. You could also dig out more of the lawn area next to the flower/veggie beds. This gives you a little space between both areas and will allow you to hit any new grasses that start to move that way with some herbicide that contains glysophate. Remember that this is a non-select chemical and so you must be careful that you don't get it on other plant material. This area wouldn't have to look unsightly, but could be filled in with colorful rock or bark mulch. Lastly, keeping your beds densely planted doesn't allow weeds/grass to grow as well since the soil becomes shaded and those grasses need sun too. You could also use a dense layer of mulch as a barrier to weeds. We hope some of these answer will help you with this problem.

 

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Can you give me some advice on perennials to plant for late summer and early fall blooms?

There are many perennials that bloom into late summer and fall. Some may require deadheading for continued bloom. (Deadheading: removal of the flower head after it has finished blooming.)

These plants need to be considered:

Achilleas or commonly known as yarrow. The Achilleas grow in a number of different colors so check around for the color that best suits your garden color scheme.

Agastache, a member of the mint family but grows taller than most mints and is sometimes called licorice mint because of the taste and smell.

Japanese Anemones

Asclepias or showy milkweed

Perennial Asters, which also grow in a variety of colors.

Buddleia, called Butterfly Bush that grows into a rather large bush so give it plenty of room. It also grows in a variety of colors like white, pink, lavender and purple.

Caryopteris or Blue Beard as it is sometimes called has blue flowers and grows to a medium sized bush

Echinacea or Purple Coneflower is considered an herb and grows to about 24 inches. It also grows in white and yellow.

Eupatorium purpureum or Joe Pye Weed, an old-fashioned plant with broad, deep purple-lilac flower heads that bloom in summer and autumn on stiff strong stems which are well-clothed in greenery. This is a statuesque plant that likes space, depth and not too dry of a soil. It grows to be 5 or 6 feet tall.

Euphorbia -- check to see if it is hardy in our Zone 5 since there are many different species.

Oenothera speciosus 'Rosea'

Perovskia or Russian sage, which grows to about 36 inches tall and has about eh same spread when fully established. It has a lovely looking silvery colored leaf with a lavender-blue bloom.

Gaillardia

Rudbekia or black eyed Susan has yellow flowers with a brown center and the different cultivars grow from 18 inches to 36 inches tall.

Salvia, the perennial cultivars

Sedum 'Autumn Joy'

Scabiosa that grows in lavender and white

The perennial grasses add texture and should be considered as an addition and contrast to the flowering plants.

Also consider too the foliage of various shrubs, trees and vines to add to your late summer and fall color.

 

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Is there an easy solution to eliminating quackgrass from my garden?

Sorry, quackgrass has been a long-standing issue in the home garden and once established is difficult to eradicate. An understanding of how the quackgrass grows will help avoid common errors in doing battle with this plant. Quackgrass grows from underground rhizomes (underground stems). Rhizomes are yellow to white, approximately 1/8" in diameter, with distinct joints or nodes every inch or so. Each node is capable of producing fibrous roots and generating new blades. Now the scary part -- one plant can produce 300 feet of rhizomes each year. This fact generates the first rule in fighting quackgrass, i.e., Never use a rototiller where quackgrass is growing. If you rototill, the chopped up rhizomes will propagate thousands of new plants. This brings us to the second rule in fighting quackgrass, eliminate quackgrass prior to developing any new garden planting. This is the easiest time to conquer this common garden headache.

If you inherited an infested garden area, or for whatever other reason you have an existing garden that hosts this tenacious weed, there are several approaches towards control. The most effective way to eradicate quackgrass is by using an herbicide that contains glyphosate (Monsanto Roundup is one example). Be very careful in the application of the herbicide. Glyphosate is non-selective and it will kill almost any green plant it contacts and it can also injure or kill woody plants. Therefore, it is very important to restrict the herbicide to only the plants you wish to eliminate. Apply only when there is no wind and when you can suspend irrigation for 48 hours. The quackgrass must be green and actively growing for best results.

Control through a single application of an herbicide is rarely completely successful. Typically 95% of the lateral buds on the rhizomes are dormant even though the plant is actively growing. Herbicides translocate from the leaves to active growing plant tissue. After about seven days the glyphosate degrades and the dormant lateral buds will start to grow new shoots. Therefore, it may take more than one application to completely eradicate your unwelcome garden guest. Plan to repeat the herbicide application every 30 to 45 days until control is complete and avoid cultivating for two weeks after each application.

In daylily, iris or other perennial flower beds, control through the use of herbicide becomes even more tedious. You will need to use a small applicator like a child's paint brush or small sponge and then be extremely careful to apply the herbicide only to the quackgrass leaves. As always, read and follow the directions provided by the herbicide manufacturer. It is also important to wear rubber gloves and eye protection to avoid skin/eye contact with the herbicide.

Nonchemical control can include, where applicable, several spring cultivations and killing any weed seeds before they develop rhizomes. Strive for extremely shallow cultivation where there is existing quackgrass as cutting of the rhizomes simply means rapid multiplication. Rhizomes either must be hand dug, striving not to break them off in the soil, and/or repeatedly eliminating the grass blades by slicing them off with a hoe. Without photosynthesis, the plant will not be able to store food reserves in the rhizomes and will eventually die. This process is a test of will -- yours against the plant's!

 

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I keep getting conflicting opinions. Do I or do I not deadhead developing seedpods from rhododendrons and azaleas?

The Washington State Nursery and Landscape Association recommends deadheading the developing seed pods. It should be noted however, other rhododendron authorities offer the opinion that deadheading is not important, that it is simply an aesthetic choice. Should you choose to break off the spent flower, be careful not to damage net year's flower pods that are in the process of developing.

As you contemplate your decision, more importantly, remember that both rhododendrons and azaleas should receive an application of "rhododendron" or evergreen-type fertilizer immediately after they have finished flowering.

 

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I continue to hear a lot about deadheading in the garden. Is it really that important and is it worth the time?

Opposite to the association the name "deadheading" suggests, it is the diligent practice of deadheading which generally promotes and extends the vitality and life of your garden. Despite the ominous tone, deadheading is nothing more than trimming off spent flowers keeping plants tidy and ensuring maximum bloom time. Although some gardeners fear that if done imperfectly, the regimen might harm the plant, unless you really whack away at it, your plant will benefit not be deformed or injured in the process. Nearly all flowering plants profit from at least some deadheading. When blooms start to fade, brown, curl or otherwise look unattractive, it is time to trim them off. The process not only encourages your plants to continue blooming, it contributes to the plant's ability to maintain a compact and thrifty stature.

Your investment is much more of time than strength. Whereas a gentle tug of the old spent flower or a quick pinch with your thumb and forefinger will be sufficient in many cases, you may need to use your hand pruner for the tougher, woodier stems.

Shrubby plants with many small flowers (Coreopsis, lobelia, potentilla, flax, gaillardia, etc.) make trimming one flower at a time impractical. With these plants you can use the macro approach, shearing with grass shears. Get as much of the flower stalk as you can, avoiding buds. Don't worry if you take some foliage in the process -- it will grow back.

Approach shrubby plants with large flowers (large marigolds, summer phlox, purple coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, etc.) with your hand pruning shears. Cut off each flower individually but get enough of the stalk that it does not protrude. Again, it is okay if you take off a bit of the foliage too. In the case of leggy plants such as petunias, cutting back foliage is often desirable.

Cut back long-stem flowers on tall stalks (daylilies, fox glove, hostas, tulips, daffodils, oriental poppies, iris, etc.) with hand shears as close as possible to the spot where the stalk meets the leaves.

Employ restraint when deadheading roses. First, do not confuse deadheading with pruning. The traditional approach, when deadheading roses, is to take out only the minimum amount of stem to remove the flower but also dictates that the cut should be made just above the first five leaflet leaf below the spent blossom. Your choice of cut point should also be directly above an outward-facing stem (a stem that points away from the plant's center. Make this cut at a 45 degree angle that slopes toward the center of the rose bush.

Please note that a slightly different approach in deadheading roses is also in practice. The method puts a high importance in the conservation of all foliage and encourages deadheading way up the stem, immediately below the spent bloom You may wish to try both methods and draw your own conclusion as to which works best.

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What to do in the July garden...

It's July...summer has officially begun. What made it official? It wasn't that spike of 90 degree days we had in early June and it wasn't the release of the valley's children from school. June 21st was the Summer Solstice, longest day of the year. That is what told us it is really Summer. Hope you did something to celebrate!

The first bloom of roses has passed -- if you haven't done so already, you should prune the roses to promote continued blooms. The general principle of pruning bush roses is to cut back to the first five-leaf growing in the direction you want the next stem to grow, remembering that you want air flow around the leaves to help prevent leaf mold.

Along with pruning the ruses, if you want your flowers to produce blooms, be sure to deadhead (cut back) the spent blossoms of all annuals and some perennials.

Keep weeding!! The weeds you allow to go to seed produce more of their kind. Not to mention that weeds growing in among our flowers or vegetables are robbing your plants of precious nutrients.

Watering is a most important activity in July. Watering in the morning allows leaves to dry out during the day and helps to prevent leaf mold. The cooler morning temperatures also prevent evaporation from the soil. "Drought-tolerant" plants need adequate watering for about two years in order to establish their root systems. Deep watering two to three times a week is preferable to frequent light watering. Deep watering encourages root system development. Try digging down in the soil to see how deep the water has gotten. It is always good to conserve the precious water resource in the valley, so don't water unnecessarily and use mulches to retain water in the soil. Try not to let the water run down the street into the drain.

Water the lawn deeply when the top one or two inches are dry. Let it run long enough to saturate the soil to a depth of six inches or more. Keep the mower blade set high. This helps the grass survive the hot weather. Let a slow hose run under shrubs and bushes to get a good, deep soak.

Plants in containers need frequent watering, sometimes twice a day during very hot periods. Rigging up a drip watering system for containers is an ideal way to care for these plants. If you are going to be gone on vacation and don't have drip irrigation, or a neighbor who will do you a favor, it is a good idea to bring pots into the house out of the heat and put them someplace they will get enough light, but not the intense heat. Be sure to water before you go.

Early July is the time to plant lettuce, peas, bush beans, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, Swiss chard and beets for fall and winter harvest. These plants need the midsummer heat and light to germinate and develop good roots. Keep the soil moist so that germinating seeds in the surface layer don't dry out and die.

For fall and winter cole crops, these plants benefit from being transplanted. Set out sturdy transplants of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage and collards.

Collard greens are an excellent winter vegetable for the valley. The plant is hardy to 10 degrees below 0. I know it's hard to think about now, but just keep the snow shaken off the leaves so they don't break. Harvest individual leaves and let the plant keep growing. You will have fresh greens all through the winter.

Back to summer! You will be harvesting radishes, lettuce, cucumbers, the last of the spring peas, early tomatoes, strawberries and raspberries.

Your house plants will need plenty of water this month along with fertilizer.

This is a great month to visit the farmer's market. It is entertaining and you get to purchase varieties that are not in your garden. You might get some ideas of vegetables you would like to try next year.

Don't fertilize trees or shrubs after mid-July. You don't want to encourage new growth that will not have time to harden off before they are harmed by winter.

Now is the time to hose off spider mites and their webs. A strong stream of water from the hose will do it. Remove dust from the under sides of leaves with the same method to discourage dust mites.

Now this is also the time to just sit and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Dry some of the mint from your garden and sip a glass of mint iced tea while you listen to the birds singing and calling to each other. Breathe in deeply the scent of roses and honeysuckle.

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More...What to do in the July garden....

Summer is finally here and it is hot! Watering is the most important task to perform in the July garden and landscape. Use water-wise techniques like drip and mini irrigation. Water in the cool of the morning to minimize evaporation and to prevent leaf mold. Mulching around plants will also help retain soil moisture. Less frequent, slow, deep watering promotes good root development. Dig down in the soil to see how deep the water is reaching. Trees like dogwoods that are not native to this area need extra watering.

In July we are enjoying the harvest of the vegetable and herb garden. Start cutting and drying herbs. Frequent cutting encourages new growth and increased productivity. The fresh dill is ready for the grilled salmon and a couple days of drying in the July heat will prepare the mint for a refreshing iced mint tea. Harvest summer squash before they get oversized and tough. This allows the plant to save energy for ongoing production. This is also true for beans. The early tomatoes will be ripening soon and the first cucumbers are ready.

Weeding is a season-long endeavor. Get to them before they go to seed in order to prevent regeneration. When using the hoe, try not to dig too deeply. This brings new seeds to the surface. Use screens in the garden hoses to prevent seeds from passing with the irrigation water. The tighter the mesh, the fewer seeds will pass and the more frequently the screens need to be cleaned of debris.

Now is the time to cut the runners off of your strawberries. If yours are an everbearing variety, you can transplant or pot the runners. These plants need to be replaced every other year.

Dead heading (removing old blooms) annuals and most perennials will encourage continued blooms. Prune roses with the five leaf rule: cut the stalk just above the fifth-leaf in the direction you want the stalk to grow. If you want large blooms, where there are clusters of buds prune off all but one.

To produce a trophy size Dahlia, the main stems should be kept free of side shoots, allowing only the terminal bud to develop. They usually require staking to support the weight of the bloom.

Irises can be divided now through August. This needs to be done every two to three years. Cut the green leaves down to about 1/3 to prevent new plantings from being whipped around in the wind.

Perennials that are for sale in containers can be planted all summer long into the fall as long as they are planted long before heavy frost. Loosen the roots by pulling them apart or cutting the bottom third of the root ball into fourths and spread them. These plants will need attention to their watering needs so they develop a good root system.

Set the mower blade higher at this time to help the grass survive the hot weather. Mowing in a varied direction pattern helps prevent compaction.

This is a good time to evaluate what is going on in your garden or landscape and see what changes you would like to make for next year. Are landscape plants growing well in the current location? What would you like to add or move? What do you see blooming around town that you would like to have in your yard?

Visit the Yakima Valley Arboretum to see what/how trees and plants there are doing. This is a good place to see what mature specimens look like and will assist with visualizing how tall the trees and bushes will eventually grow and help with your planning.

Another place to go and see what is possible in just a season and a half is the Master Gardener's Demonstration Garden at the Ahtanum Youth Park. It is truly incredible. There is a minimal fee to enter the park now, so be prepared for that.

During the long days of summer, house plants need to be fertilized weekly. They may also need more frequent watering. Observe for signs of pest damage. Check plants for the need for repotting. If the roots are growing out of the hole in the bottom, it is time. Now is a good time to take cuttings for starting new plants.

The Yakima Farmer's Market is a great place to visit now with all the produce that is being brought in. Check out the varieties and the opportunity to meet local farmers and artists.

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What can I do to give my rhododendron a lift and keep the leaves green during this hot weather?

Hot weather really is hard on rhododendrons. You can give them a real lift by keeping their roots in damp soil. This means deep and frequent watering will be needed. They also like acid soil. Soil in this area seems to be generally alkaline so add one to two cups of vinegar to five gallons of water and pour it on the roots around the drip line of the plant. Fertilizing should be done just before or after they have bloomed. Rhododendrons that have yellow leaves may be lacking iron and/or nitrogen but a formula that is not too high in nitrogen (12 or under) is recommended. Chelated iron is advised to meet that deficiency. One important thing to remember about this plant is that the roots are quite shallow and extend out beyond the drip line. For this reason it is better to pull weeds from around the plant rather than using the hoe and risk damaging the roots. This plant only needs four hours a day of sunlight to bloom fully, so the morning sun and the afternoon shade provided on the east or northeast side of the house is ideal. You could also look for varieties that can stand the heat of the valley summers.

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I have heard about something called soil solarization. What is it and how does it work?

Soil solarization is a nonchemical method for controlling diseases and pests. It is the safest and most effective means of controlling soil pest issues in home gardens. However, it is dependent on the area of application having abundant sunshine and warm temperatures. That said, it has been used successfully in field trials in Vancouver, Washington, therefore the climate of central Washington should certainly qualify.

Capturing radiant heat energy from the sun, this simple technique is relatively easy to apply. It consists of covering the soil with a clear plastic tarp for 4- to 6-weeks during the summer when the soil will receive maximum direct sunlight. When correctly done, the top six inches of soil will heat up to as high as 125°. Over several weeks, that is hot enough to kill a wide range of soil inhabiting pests such as wilt and root rot fungi, root knot nematodes and yes, noxious weed seed. In addition, tests show solarization is especially effective for treating garden soils as the process stimulates the release of nutrients from organic matter present in the soil.

The first step in soil solarization is tilling the area to be treated. Break up soil clods and remove plant debris to ensure consistent and close contact between the plastic tarp and the soil. The soil surface should be raked smooth before covering with the plastic.

The second step is to moisten the soil. Wet soil conducts heat more efficiently that dry soil. Moistening the soil to the depth of one foot will enhance heat penetration through the potential rooting profile. Also, in moist soils, pest organisms are more active and therefore more susceptible to the effects of heat. In dry soils, most pest organisms are dormant.

Next, cover the soil with clear polyethylene plastic tarp 1 to 2 mils thick. Avoid thicker 4 - 6 mil tarps as they are more reflective and do not allow the soil to heat up as much. Clear or transparent plastic should be used, no black plastic. Again, clear plastic results in greater transmission of solar energy to the soil which in turn promotes greater heat gain.

Killing of pathogens and pests is related to time and temperature exposure. The longer the soil is heated, the deeper the control. In addition, longer soil coverage increases the opportunity for biological control mechanisms to work. Although some pests organisms are killed with days, 4 to 6 weeks of treatment in the full summer sun is usually best.

When solaring is complete, plant your bed with seed or healthy, uncontaminated plants. Do not mix untreated soil into the solarized bed. The less disturbance of the solarized soil, before and at the time of planting, the better. Raised beds can also be solarized in the same fashion as ground beds.

Solarization is represented to be the most effective way home gardeners have to reduce or eliminate soil-borne garden pests. For some diseases, control has continued for at least two growing seasons. Also, preliminary evidence suggests that some pathogens may re-infest solarized soil at slower rates than non-treated soil. In any case, your immediate and direct tangible benefits include healthier and more productive flower and vegetable gardens.

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My roses have bloomed once. Should I prune them now?

There are two types of bush roses: floribunda, with multiple blooms on each stem and hybrid teas, which are grown for long-stemmed single blooms. For plants that are established and growing well, pruning cuts can be made further down the stem. Cut above two or more five leaflet leaves from where this year's growth began, on an outward facing node.

Shrub and climber roses should not be pruned at this time. Whole canes may be taken out by cutting at the ground level in the late fall. This is done to prevent winter snow damage. Otherwise, pruning can be done in early spring.

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Some of the leaves on my rose bush have yellow and light green streaks in them. What is causing it and is it serious?

It is hard to diagnose plant problems without seeing the plant, but it sounds like it could be infected with a virus called Rose Mosaic. This disease causes leaves to show yellow or light green ring-spots, zigzag lines and mottled patterns. You might see other symptoms such as a general yellowing of the plant, stunted growth or deformed leaves. This virus is spread by insects or pruning tools, but can be spread by grafting or budding, so the plant was probably infected when you got it. To get a good diagnosis, bring in a sample of the plant to the Master Gardener's Clinic on Monday, Wednesday or Friday to the WSU Yakima County Extension Office located on the second floor of the Yakima County Courthouse in Room 233.

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I moved over from the Seattle area last year and was quite surprised to find slugs in my garden here in Eastern Washington! Did I bring them with me? Any tips for getting rid of them that I might not know? I have pets that I don't want to endanger with pesticides.

The slugs were already here and you probably know a lot of the tricks for control, but we will give our suggestions. First, slugs like cool, moist places to hide and to breed, so the first step to control is to remove stones, plant debris, boards, weeds, etc. near the plants you want to protect. Low-growing ground cover plants such as ivy can provide a daytime haven for slugs and snails. (Yes, we have snails too!). They will also hide in decorative bark and the compost pile. Trim hedges a few inches up from the soil so that they are not providing a hiding place.

Moisture is something we can control easier here than in the Seattle area. Watering deeply every few days instead of a little every day allows the plants and soil to dry out and eliminates the cool, moist environment that slugs need. Watering in the morning allows the environment to dry out during the day.

Slugs are active at night, so setting out traps and checking them during the day is an effective control. Good traps can be made by turning over a flower pot and prop it up a little with a small stone. The same can be done with a grapefruit half which also has an attractive scent. A wide board or piece of black plastic sheeting will also work. You probably know the beer in the saucer trick. Try using beer in a cottage cheese container. Cut three oval-shaped flaps in the lid, leaving one end of the oval attached like a hinge and push it down to the inside. This will allow the slugs to crawl in, but not out.

An alternative to beer for bait in traps is a solution of 1-1/2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of grape jelly and 2 cups water. Bring ingredients to a boil and stir until the jelly and sugar are dissolved. This will fill several containers. It can be changed every three weeks.

Another suggestion is to use a perimeter of lava rocks or diatomaceous earth (sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures). The slugs and snails do not like to crawl across it. This only works, of course, if the area has been completely cleared of the creatures first.

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I was thinking about getting a butterfly bush for my yard, but my friend said that it is a noxious weed. What does that mean and can I plant it?

The definition of a Noxious Weed is a plant that is not native to the area and is causing problems because it is able to spread quickly and may be difficult to control. They are invasive in croplands, range lands, forests, prairies, rivers, lakes, wetlands and estuaries. They cause both ecological and economic damage.

The Washington State Noxious Weed Board puts out the list of these undesirable plants. There are three classifications on the list:

-- Class A Noxious Weeds are nonnative species that are prioritized for eradication of existing infestations and preventing new infestations. Eradication of all Class A weeds is required by law.

-- Class B Noxious Weeds are nonnative species that have different control priorities in different parts of the state. In regions where they are not yet widespread, prevention of new infestations is the primary goal. In regions where a Class B species is already abundant, containment of the infestation so they don't spread to other uninfested areas is the goal. Control is decided at the local county level.

-- Class C Noxious Weeds are either already widespread in Washington or are of special interest to the agricultural industry. A Class C status allows the individual county to enforce control if it benefits the County. This is usually done to protect agricultural crops. Other counties may choose to provide public education or technical support to control these weeds.

The butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii or Buddleia davidii) was placed on the Classification C Noxious Weed List in 2005. It is a bigger problem in some counties west of the Cascades in Washington. The butterfly bush is a profuse producer of lightweight, winged seeds that are easily taken great distances by the wind. Butterfly bush can also reproduce vegetatively, as cut stems can sprout roots and grow into new plants. It was placed on the Noxious Weed list because in western areas of the state it is crowding out native plants and competing for the nutrients needed by these plants.

The butterfly bush was imported from China and has become a pest in Great Britain and New Zealand. It is a Class B Noxious Weed in Oregon. So, though I have seen potted specimens of butterfly bush for sale locally, it is not a good idea to plant a new one at this time.

Alternative plants have been suggested by the Washington Invasive Species Coalition. One of them is the chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus) which looks very similar to the butterfly bush. It is a tall, upright shrub that does well in a hot, sunny location. Blooming in summer to early autumn, it adds color at the same time as the butterfly bush. The blooms also have a similar lilac-like form. Bloom colors are lavender-purple or white. The nectar attracts butterflies and the foliage provides a food source for the butterfly larvae. The foliage of the chaste tree is aromatic and free of pests and diseases, making it a perfect alternative to the butterfly bush.

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I have a lot of thatch buildup in my lawn. What causes the problem and how can I control it?

Thatch is more of a problem in lawns that are watered frequently, but not deeply. Thatch is an accumulation of living and dead stems, roots, rhizomes and leaves of the grass plants. It is the dark brown layer of spongy material between the soil and the grass crowns. Some thatch is normal, but causes a problem when it builds up more than about 3/4 of an inch. A buildup of thatch keeps nutrients and water from penetrating the soil.

The best control method in our area is practicing deeper, less frequent watering. Spring is the time to remove thatch by power raking. Then, follow up with aerating to improve water and oxygen penetration to the roots. In rare cases where thatch layers are several inches thick, removing the sod and starting over is the most practical solution.

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I have heard of the tomato horn worm. What do I look for to prevent them and the damage they cause?

The mature adult of this larva is about the size and shape of a hummingbird, for which they are often mistaken, and therefore called the hummingbird moth. They hover around blossoms that are also attractive to their namesakes in the late evening. They feed on the nectar of the blossoms, but lack the speed of the bird. They lay eggs on tomato vines which develop into large, green worms about three or four inches long with a spiked tail. They are voracious eaters and will eat all the leaves out of the tops of your tomato plants. Check your plants regularly, looking for these little green monsters and pick them off by hand and destroy them. If you wish to use an insecticide, call the Master Gardener plant clinic to get current recommendations.

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How can I keep worms out of my sweet corn?

Corn earworms are about 1/2- to 1-inch long, green, brown or reddish in color and love sweet corn. They feed on the silk and kernels of the corn ear.

Nonchemical methods of control should always be the first choice. These practices include planting early in the season and encouraging natural predators such as parasitic wasps and green lacewings. In a small patch where it is manageable, placing a clothespin at the point where the silk enters the ear can prevent access by the earworm. This should be done as soon as the silks appear.

It is important to till the soil of the corn plot in the fall to kill the pupae that over-winter there. Rotating the location of the corn patch will also help.

Next year you could consider growing varieties such as "Country Gentleman, "Breeder's Choice", "Golden Security", "Silvergent" and "Staygold" which have tighter husks and are more resistant to the pests.

If you do choose chemical control, a pesticide containing carbaryl is recommended. Products that are legal in Washington State include
-- Eliminator Bug Killer
-- Conc. Sevin Brand Carbaryl Insecticide
-- Fertri-lome Liquid Carbaryl Garden Spray
-- Garden Tech Seven Conc. Bug Killer

Apply the product directly to the silk as soon as the silks appear. There is no need, nor is it desirable, to apply pesticide to the entire corn stalk since it has no positive effect on other corn pests, but can be very detrimental to bees which are needed in any garden. Doing the application early in the morning or late evening before bees are active is a good practice. Always read pesticide labels and follow the directions carefully.

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I have seen used coffee grounds for gardening available in some coffee shops. How can I use them in the garden?

I wish more coffee shops would offer their spent grounds to the public for use in the garden. It certainly would save a lot of this useful material from going to the land fill.

One really great use of the grounds is in the compost mix as it is an excellent source of the nitrogen needed for this process. An ideal mix for composting is one-third green (high nitrogen) and two-thirds brown (high carbon) materials. The coffee grounds have a high 20:1 (20 to 1) nitrogen ratio making them comparable to grass clippings. A higher nitrogen ratio material would be manure at 15:1 (15 to 1). I find the grounds to be most useful for the compost process in the fall or very early spring. At those times I have piles or bags of dry leaves collected and there are no weeds or grass clippings to use for the one-third green part. The filters from home brewed coffee can be included in the compost, but it is recommended to tear them up a little to aid in the breakdown.

I love to have a hot compost pile that was started in the fall. As the turning maintenance continues into the early winter and the ambient temperature is freezing, I get such a thrill when I stick the thermometer into the pile and find the temperature inside is 130°F.

Coffee grounds can be used as a soil amendment for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons, azaleas and blueberries. Grounds that are finely ground should be lightly worked into the top one to two inches of the soil around the plants. Regular grind, such as from your own home brew, can be spread on the surface of the soil. The grounds can be used in the rest of the garden to lower the pH effect. Grounds are not recommended for use with house plants because they tend to attract fruit flies.

Utilize these tips for incorporating coffee grounds into your gardening practice and on a warm morning as you survey your garden, you will literally wake up and smell the coffee, even if you don't drink it yourself.

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I thought my vegetable garden would be doing better in this hot weather than it has. What is wrong?

Most temperate plants stop making sugars (the product of photosynthesis) when the temperatures hit 90°. Also, water use increases dramatically so you need to stay on the alert and monitor soil moisture daily.

Some problems in the vegetables are caused by very hot temperatures:

• Tomatoes will not set fruit.
• Cucumbers may develop pointed ends and become bitter.
• Sweet corn may have blank tips on the ears or blank spaces in the middle of the ear.
• Tomatoes and peppers may have sunburned fruit or develop blossom end rot.
• Early potato varieties that are short on nitrogen fertilizer will die down early.

The only things you can do to minimize these hot weather problems is to provide adequate water utilizing good irrigation practices, provide adequate nutrients and control competition for nutrients from weeds.

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What to do in the August garden...

It is August! The successes and disappointments in your garden typically become more evident with each passing day. Use this month to critique and evaluate your gardens. Make notes not only of issues that require immediate action, but observations that will help you build on your triumphs and reduce frustrations next year. Be conscious of what pleases you. What does not? Is a sun loving plant too shaded? Or the reverse, is a shade plant receiving too much sunshine? Is a tall perennial in the wrong place? Are you creative in the use of complementary colors? Wander and ponder your garden.

Respond to the August requests of your garden. It will more than reciprocate by giving you extended enjoyment, feeding your senses, soil and body with its bounty.

August reminders:

1. Remember the basics in your watering practice. Those fundamentals include: watering in early morning, when possible; water the soil, not the leaves; adjust your water schedule as necessary in response to extended periods of hot August days; it is typically better to water less frequently, but deeply rather than often and in amounts that fail to penetrate the root zone;
2. Water container plants at least once a day. Add a second watering during days of extreme temperature.
3. Harvest your vegetables frequently and regularly. This will stretch the garden's productive season and allow you to enjoy your vegetables at their peak.
4. Do you have portions of your lawn turning brown? Brown lawn may indicate that it has gone dormant due to lack of adequate irrigation. Be cautious in how you respond. One choice is not to water and allow the lawn to remain dormant, but brown. The alternative is to bring your lawn out of dormancy with good, regular watering. If you choose the latter, continue to apply necessary water until the lawn goes naturally dormant in late fall.
5. Roll up your sleeves and continue to deadhead the tired blossoms on both your annuals and your perennials. While you are attending to this important task also pinch back leggy growth on annuals.
6. Plan to divide and transplant perennials once the temperature begins to moderate.
7. Your perennial herbs need time to rebuild in preparation for winter. Make your last heavy cutting no later than the middle of the month.
8. Don't place your roses and perennials in harms way. Late fertilizing encourages late, frost/winter vulnerable growth, so keep your August applications light. If you rely on systemic for insect control, an August application is still okay.
9. Walnut growers stay alert for the walnut husk fly. You can check with the Master Gardener clinic for updates as to when to provide treatment for this pest.
10. Water your compost pile regularly. Keep it moist and active. If you do not have a compost pile, start one.
11. Do not spray pesticides during the heat of the day. Confine your application to either the early morning or late evening hours and follow the directions provided on the label.
12. Does your garden claim more time than you wish it would? If so, perhaps it is time to plan a garden makeover, adjusting and adapting your garden to your needs.
13. If you have plants showing symptoms of chlorosis (leaves turning yellow, veins staying green), apply a fertilizer that contains chelated iron. Accommodate the uptake by the plant by keeping the soil moist and protected with suitable garden mulch.
14. Take out or cut back plants that have finished their life cycle. Be aggressive in taking out/cutting back spent annuals, biennials and some herbaceous plants that are getting woody. Prepare the area for next year by cultivating in soil amendments.
15. Replenish the mulch layers in your garden. Mulch preserves moisture, inhibits weed germination and builds long-term soil health.
16. Provide supports for mature plants that are lying over. Tie them up to a stake or use some other type of plant support to keep them upright. This will prevent them from smothering neighboring plants and keep your garden looking much tidier.
17. Late August is the time to begin lifting and separating spring flowering bulbs (tulips, daffodils, etc.). If your iris need dividing (every three years is a good rule) do it by the first week of September. This will allow the roots time to become established before cold weather.
18. Feed your strawberries in mid-month. Follow label directions as to the application rate.
19. For best results, flowers harvested for drying should be selected when the bloom has almost fully opened. Cut the flowers early in the morning, just after the dew has evaporated.
20. Share the bounty of your garden with your neighbors, food bank, Union Gospel Mission, Salvation Army or other institutions.

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It is late summer and I think my garden has been visited by every critter and every seasonal weather element known to man. Now, I believe, Fusarium wilt is paying its complements. How do I cure, or at least control, this beast?

Fusarium wilt is a nasty disease caused by a soil-borne pathogenic fungus. Commonly found throughout the United States, it attacks many of the most popular garden vegetables such as potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and basil.

Fusarium, like Verticillium wilt, infects plants through the roots. Invading the plant through the fibrous root system, the fungi disrupts water and mineral uptake within the plant. It is spread by water, insects, garden equipment, etc. Over-wintering in the soil or plant debris, once established, this pathogen can remain almost indefinitely. Cleaning up crop residue at the season's end can help, as well as the immediate removal of stricken growth. Be sure to sterilize tools, gloves and/or your hands immediately after contact with infected plant material (one part bleach to four parts water). Controlling garden insects also helps check the spread. Many weeds host the disease, therefore, a weed-free garden is also of importance.

The best/most practical solution is to rotate your crops and plant resistant varieties. Many of the popular varieties of tomatoes, for example, have resistance to the common variety of Fusarium fungus, to the Verticillium fungus or to both. This resistance is commonly identified by the symbols "V" for Verticillium, "F" for Fusarium and "N" for nematode on plant labels or seed packages. A few tomato varieties with resistance to Verticillium (V) and/or Fusarium (F) include: Early Cascade (VF), Burpee's (VF) and Beefmaster (VFN).

Long rotations (4-6 years) may help to reduce fungal inoculum levels in the soil, but will not control the disease. There has been some success in defeating this wilt pathogen through summertime soil solarization. The process is simple. Plan to solarize during the hottest part of the summer, for up to 3-months. To solarize, smooth out the area (removing sod, plant debris and rocks), moisten the soil, lay a 4 mm to 6 mm thick sheet of clear plastic over the bare soil and seal the edges of the plastic with rocks or soil. This process can naturally heat the top 4-8" of the soil to over 140°F which kills most pathogenic organisms. Soil that is rich in organic matter will be "cleaner" faster than soil that is low in organic matter.

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During the visits of hot weather this summer, it seemed I was forever chasing dry spots and droopy plants. How can I react better in maintaining my yard during periods of heat stress?

The best advice to help you manage water distribution is to know your yard and gardens. Visit often and see what's working and how your plants are responding to various water application rates. Landscape professionals generally agree that most landscaping receives more water than necessary. The key then, is to manage the distribution of water to your yard. A quick checklist in water management includes the following:

	Water only as much as necessary. The greatest waste of water comes from applying too much, too often. Routine visits to your yard will quickly tell you which areas are turning slimy or showing stress from too much water and which areas need attention because they are not receiving enough.
	Inspect your system on a regular basis. Periodically check your irrigation system to make sure everything is working properly.
	Zone your yard. Different plants need different amounts of water. Divide your yard and landscape areas into separate irrigation zones. To achieve the most efficient use of water, incorporate both sprinkler and drip irrigation in your yard.
	Base watering times on plant needs. Yes, generally more water is required to help new plants become established. However, once plants are acclimated and their rooting systems developed, watering times typically can be decreased.
	Once you have figured out the optimal water application for the respective zones in your landscape, record that information and program it to your irrigation system's automatic controller. Or, if you are working with a non-automated system, time the moves of your sprinklers to closely match the various landscape requirements that you have recorded...
	Water in the morning. The hours between 5:00 a.m. and 10:00 a.m. are optimal because the sun is low, winds are generally calm and temperatures cool to moderate. Watering mid- to late-day is less efficient because of possible water loss due to evaporation. Watering in the evening may leave plants wet overnight, which invites plant disease.
	Mulch. Mulch helps your planting beds retain moisture.
	When installing new landscapes, a properly designed and installed irrigation system is a great water conservation tool.

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I have read in your column that it is a good rule to divide iris approximately every three years. Please tell me the basics on how to do this.

August is an excellent month to divide your iris. When summer heats up, bearded iris goes dormant; that is the best time to dig and divide established plants. Dividing your iris revitalizes crowded clumps and multiplies your stock of plants.

The process is simple. Using a shovel, pry the clumps out of the ground. Discard old, leafless rhizomes from the center of the clump. Then, break or cut the thick, vigorous rhizomes apart at the knuckle-like joints, making pieces approximately 3- to 4-inches long. Trim leaves on each piece back to 6- to 8-inch fans and also clip stringy roots back to about 6-inches. Finally, set the rhizomes in dry shade for a day or two to allow the cuts to heal.

After allowing time for the healing process, replant the divisions 1- to 2-feet apart in soil amended with well-aged compost. Water well and continue irrigation until winter moisture takes over.

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I keep reading about rotating the plantings of my vegetables. Is it really that important?

Plant diseases can be a significant problem in home gardens and most vegetables are susceptible to a number of diseases. Wilts, leaf spots, blights and fruit rots are just a few of the disease problems that plague vegetable gardens every year. Home gardeners can reduce the occurrence of many diseases with wound cultural practices, one of which is crop rotation. For most of us, garden space is limited and it is very tempting to fall into a routine of planting certain vegetables in areas that seem most convenient to us.

What can happen if we totally ignore rotations? That is, if you were to plant the same vegetable in the same garden spot each year. This was done in Penn State research fields for tomatoes. The results are summarized below and show the rapid development of tomato early blight.

Defoliation associated with Alternaria early blight on tomatoes after growing tomatoes in the same field for one, two, three or four successive years:

Successive Years	% Defoliation when 5% of fruit was ripe
Year 1	3%
Year 2	30%
Year 3	74%
Year 4	70%

The results provide a clear indication of the value of rotations relative to diseases caused by pathogens that can survive either in soil or in association with refuse from diseased plants. Many vegetable diseases are in this category. Traditional wisdom and commonsense, combined with results such as those presented in the study above, tell us that rotations are important.

Grow the same plants or closely related plants in the same soil only once every 3 to 5 years. This practice helps starve out most pathogens that cause stem and leaf diseases.

Unfortunately, crop rotation doesn't work against soil-born problems such as root and crown disease caused by the fungi Phytophthora and vascular wilts caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas. These organisms typically persist several years in the soil and affect many plant families. You can get only very limited benefit against Fusarium wilt.

The following table presents common vegetables listed by families or groups. Rotate these with another vegetable outside of that group:

Plant family Alliaceae:	Chives, Garlic, Leaks, Onions
Plant family Brassicaceae:	Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Radish Spinach, Turnip
Plant family Cucurbitacae:	Cantaloupe, Cucumbers, Honeydew melons, Pumpkins, Squash, Watermelon
Plant family Fabaceae:	All beans, English peas, Southern Peas
Plant family Solanaceae:	Eggplant, Peppers, Potatoes, Tomatoes
Plant family Poaceae:	Corn
Plant family Malvaceae:	Okra
Plant family Apiaceae:	Carrot

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Help! Some of my perennials are trying to take over my garden. How do I regain control?

Perennials can and do provide a dynamic aspect to any garden with their seasonal show of foliage and flowers. However, over the years they can spread a considerable distance, covering large areas and increasing in size to become a major presence. Although perennials can impart a sense of fullness and maturity to your garden, their sprawl can create problems when they outgrow their space. First, their spread may encroach on other plants, giving your garden an unkempt appearance and, perhaps more importantly, overcrowded plantings are more prone to disease problems. Second, some perennials thrive for a time, but after several years become crowded and lose vigor or fail to bloom. Third, perennials with spreading growth habit, like bee balm, creeping phlox, etc., often colonize areas where less aggressive plants are growing. If the assertive spreader is not restrained, its shy neighbors may be overcome and lost. If you see any of these developments in your garden, it is time to consider dividing the plant. Dividing perennials renews their vigor, limits their size and provides additional plants to expand your garden or share with friends. Or, if a spreading perennial becomes more trouble than its maintenance warrants, consider removing it from that particular garden to a spot where its vigor is not a problem.

Late summer or early fall is the ideal time to divide spring and summer blooming perennials. Division is most successful when the parent plant is dug, divided and all plants immediately replanted. If you must hold the newly divided plants for a short period of time, keep them cool, shaded and moist. Propagation through division is simple and requires only a few tools, some planning and yes, some elbow grease. These few care points will help the division establish quickly.

• Before dividing a plant, prepare the area where the new divisions will be located. This allows you to quickly put the plants back into the ground.
• Be sure to amend the soil with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure as it may be several years before you work the soil again.
• Then, gather your tool kit. Most divisions can be made by using a sharp spade, two garden forks, a large butcher knife and/or a folding pruning saw. The type of plant you are dividing will dictate what type of cutting divide will be needed.
• Thoroughly water any plants that are to be divided the day before your division exercise begins.
• Using the spade, cut around the outer perimeter of the plant, then using the garden fork, loosen the plant.
• Lift the clump out of the ground and remove most of the soil from the roots. Removing the soil from the roots allows the individual plants within the clump to become visible.
• Examine the plant crown and discard any portion that is injured or appears unhealthy. Throw away the old mature portion.
• Trim the foliage back by 50% before replanting the new divisions.
• How quickly a newly planted division blooms is largely dependent on the size of the division. If you want blooming to occur next spring/summer, divide the clump into a few large plants. If you want large numbers of a plant and are willing to wait for blooms, divide the clump into many small plants.
• After dividing, soak the root system in a bucket of water for about an hour prior to planting in the new location.
• Regardless of size, all divisions should be planted immediately, thoroughly watered and provided temporary shade.
• In your replanting process, make sure the plant is growing at the same level it was before you dug it.

Another way to limit the growth of a spreading perennial is to contain the roots. Cut the bottom out of a large plastic pot and sink it into the ground where you want the plant to grow. Allow the lip of the pot to extend to the soil line. Then plant the perennial in soil in the pot. The spread of roots and/or underground shoots is largely contained by the sides of the pot.

Certain clump-forming perennials such as Siberian iris, blue oat grass and hosta, spread in a more controlled manner. The clump simply increases in size in an ever expanding circle. It is not unusual for these clump-forming perennials to lose their vigor and begin to decline in the center. The areas at the edges of the clump remain healthy and form a ring around a dead core. Divide such clumps with a sharp spade or butcher knife, discarding the dead interior area.

The exact timing as to when you choose to divide your perennials primarily depends on the plant's season of bloom. Generally, spring and summer flowing perennials should be divided from late summer to early fall; fall flowering perennials in the spring.

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I have waited all summer to feast on my own homegrown tomatoes. Now I am finding many of my much anticipated fruits have an ugly, sunken black spot on the blossom end. What is the problem?

Blossom-end rot is a common disorder. A symptom of calcium deficiency, it is a non-parasitic, physiological issue that occurs on tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and even on some melons. This deficiency may be caused by low soil calcium, low levels of calcium in the maturing fruit, or other cultural factors, especially fluctuation in soil moisture. Extremes in soil moisture (either too dry or too wet) can result in a deficiency of calcium available to the maturing fruit. While blossom-end rot is most prevalent on tomatoes, as stated above, it can occur on other crops and the fruit symptoms are the same. However, in peppers, the rot appears tan in color and should not be confused with sun scald, which is white and usually is apparent higher up on the fruit.

The calcium deficiency producing blossom-end rot is related to several factors, including calcium, nitrogen and soil moisture levels. The severity of the condition can be compounded when two or more of these factors interact. An example of this would be low soil calcium level in combination with an inadequate or interrupted supply of soil moisture. However, it can occur even when there is abundant calcium in the soil.

Blossom-end rot usually appears initially on the first fruit cluster of a plant. This is due to the combination of rapid plant growth with a large leaf area for water transpiration, water stress and fruit enlargement. In addition, the lack of calcium may be due to the plant's inadequate root uptake of certain nutrients. Even a temporary water stress during early fruit enlargement can cause blossom-end rot because the fruits are the last to receive containing calcium and other minerals moves rapidly to the leaves. Most water is lost (transpired) through the leaves, and, as a result, most of the calcium is found there. Fruit does not transpire as much as leaves, therefore, less calcium is deposited there, resulting in a localized calcium deficiency in the fruit. When this calcium deficiency occurs in the end of the fruit, which is an area of rapid growth, it causes cells to collapse.

Another cause of blossom-end rot is over-fertilization, especially with nitrogen. Excessive vegetative growth increases the transpiration surface and further prevents calcium accumulation in the fruit. Now that we understand the beast, we can react in several ways.

First, you may wish to apply lime to your soil several months ahead of planting. As most home gardeners do not have soil test information to guide them, a good rule of thumb is as follows: If no lime has been applied in the last three years, and no soil test is available, broadcast 5 pounds of dolomitic lime per 100 square feet (an area 10 feet by 10 feet). This application should be made 3 months before planting and should be incorporated into the soil. While lime is frequently available free from many of the local fruit warehouses, it is typically also available, and relatively cheap, at your nearest nursery store.

Second, the use of 5-10-10 fertilizer in place of 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 on tomatoes will help reduce nitrogen problems associated with the issue, i.e. plants that are too vigorous.

Third, removing affected fruits when symptoms are first observed may promote subsequent sound development of other fruit on the plant. By the time a second set of fruit begins developing, the plant has expanded and developed a root system more capable of gathering and delivering calcium to the fruit.

Fourth, mulch plants to conserve moisture and to provide a more uniform water supply. Adequate soil moisture throughout the season through the use of mulch and good water management is essential for avoiding the disorder.

Fifth, avoid severe pruning. Severely pruned tomato plants are more prone to develop blossom-end rot than unpruned plants.

Sixth, keep water supply uniform and regular.

Seventh, foliar sprays of calcium won't correct blossom-end rot once it has occurred on the fruit. This is because fruits do not have openings in the skin where moisture can be lost or where calcium can enter the fruit from surface application, That said, foliar sprays can be used to help prevent the problem on young developing fruit before signs of the disorder occur. If you choose to use a foliar supplement, remember calcium chloride is suggested only for tomatoes, not other fruits or vegetables. Begin application prior to the first cluster of fruit appearing. Be cautious in the timing of your application as calcium chloride may burn the plant if sprayed during the hotter part of the day. Soil-applied treatments and prevention through cultural practices are generally preferred over sprays.

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What are some key basics to consider when planning my new gardens?

There are many ways to approach the project, but to do it right, it should be a thoughtful process. It is an exercise of collecting information, analyzing the information and ultimately sharing the information.

Make notes concerning the elements of the property, your wants and needs list and the assets and liabilities of the property. Are there areas subject to strong winds, hot sun, views to preserve, views to hide? Be sure to be thorough here and try to represent the entire year, not just the current conditions. This phase of the process is called inventory.

A self-inventory should be made asking questions about your lifestyle, your current ability to fund and maintain a landscape project and where you are in your life cycle. Be extremely honest in answering two important questions. The first question is how much can I comfortably budget for the project? The second question is how much time am I willing to invest in maintenance?

Next, analyze this information. This should reveal what is reasonable for your situation and will probably cause you to modify your wish list. While the inventory and analysis phase of the landscape process may not be the most fun, it can and will save you time, money and frustration both now and down the road.

Then, share this information with nursery and landscape professionals. The sharing of information is an important aspect in your design process, but only if the information is accurate. It is much easier for a nursery professional to guide you if you provide notes, pictures and dimensions of the spaces you will be working with. The ultimate success of your project requires attention to detail and one important aspect of this is remembering that plants grow. A cute one gallon specimen plant may not be as cute when it grows to the size of a small car. Again, plan for growth.

There are many considerations in designing a landscape that are not covered in this response, but, by following the above process you will come much closer to realizing the features that are most important to you.

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I'm not having good luck with foxglove. Can you help me better understand the plant and its care?

Foxgloves are biennials or short-lived perennials. However, although individual plants may be short-lived, foxglove readily self-sows and multiplies. A side note, foxglove leaves contain digitalis, a potent heart medicine and are considered poisonous.

Choose a site with light shade and work for moist, yet well-drained soil. Set plants out in spring or fall, spacing plants 12-inches to 2-feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the bed by working the soil to a depth of 12- to 15-inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball, firm the soil and water thoroughly.

If you plan to work from seed, sow seeds in early summer. Foxglove propagates well from seed.

For routine maintenance, apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. It is usually best to stake taller varieties to keep them upright. You may choose to remove the central flower spike after flowering to encourage other side shoots to form and produce more flowers. However, if you want the plant to self-sow and multiply, leave the flower spike intact on the plant so seeds can mature and disperse.

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My petunias that I plant in May begin to be eaten in late June or July -- not the leaves, but the blossoms. What is doing this?

It come be one or more of a variety of insects, worms or slugs. To help identify the source of the problem, you may need to examine the plants by turning over the leaves and looking at the base of the plants. Checking things out at night with a flashlight can sometimes be revealing. Typically you are dealing with grasshoppers, earwigs, cut worms or slugs. These are the most common invaders. If you want help with identification, call the Master Gardener clinic at 574-1600 on Mondays, Wednesdays or Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon or 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

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What to do in September....

"In the garden, autumn is, indeed the crowning glory of the year, bringing us the fruition of months of thought and toil. And at no season, safe perhaps in daffodil time, do we get such superb color effects as from August to November." Rose G. Kingsley, The Autumn Garden, 1905

September is a favorite month here in the Yakima Valley with orchards ripe with beautiful apples and our garden bounty ready for harvest. How lucky we are to live here.

	Begin your list of things to do in September by enjoying some of those wonderful apples, eaten fresh out of hand or prepared in a luscious dessert for your family.
	Take a walk through your yard and garden and pat yourself on the back for the good job you have done in some areas and take note about some spots that need change. Make notes in your journal where you want to improve production, year-around color or the health of your plants.
	September is a good time to get new plant material established and nurseries in the valley will be having a good variety with good prices. Consider planting some new shrubs or trees and do it now so the roots will take hold before winter. This is also a good time to do any division of spring-blooming flowers. When you are transplanting, share your extras with a neighbor. Water your new plantings well.
	Get after those late weeds so they do not make seeds. If they already have, do not put them in the compost pile.
	If your potato plants have died down, it is time for harvest. Get the whole family involved in this activity and plan on baking a few of the big ones and top them off with chives snipped from your herb garden. To store, do not wash the potatoes but brush the soil off and place where it is cool and dark.
	If frost threatens, cover your tomatoes and peppers for a longer harvest. Cut your basil as it is very tender. If it is a hard freeze coming, pick all your tomatoes that have even a hint of color and they will finish ripening on your counter. Consider making some clean-up-the-garden tomato sauce by using up peppers, onions, garlic, thyme and some basil with those tomatoes. Freeze in plastic bags for winter pasta dinners.
	A hard frost can be damaging to squash and pumpkins. Harvest them when the skin seems tough and place them in a warm area for a couple of weeks before storing in a cool place.
	Bring in those houseplants you took outside last spring, before frost hits them. Wash their leaves off to get rid of any insects and be sure to check the under side of those leaves to see if any bugs are hiding.
	Fertilize your lawn for the last time this year. Follow label instructions.
	Plant some spring bulbs, such as daffodils and tulips. Remember to plant them twice as deep as they are long. Buy extra and plant them at our grandma's house when she isn't home for a spring surprise. (Keep it a secret.)
	Shop at local orchards, fruit stands, gardens and nurseries for the freshest possible and to give support to Yakima Valley agribusiness.
	Plan on attending the Central Washington State Fair which begins September 28th for some LOL good times! Check for entry dates and enter those prize-winning potatoes, tall cornstalks and a scarecrow. Spend a lot of time in the Agriculture Building and vow to plant more variety next year. Check out the educational display put on by Yakima County Master Gardeners.
	Take a walk and gather acorns and colorful leaves for your fall table. Embrace September!

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I have brown spots on my lawn and the grass there comes out easily like it is being eaten off. What is causing this? Is it an insect?

You can be an investigator and try to solve this problem. Dig down and lift out a shovel of soil going down about 9-inches. Look through the soil and see if you see any grubs that are about 1/4- to 1/2-inch long that are white with a brown head. If so, you might have an infestation of billbugs.

We have had several calls in the Master Gardener Clinic about billbugs this year. The grubs feed during July and August and leave your lawn looking bad. The adults are beetles 1/4- to 1/2 inch long and are gray/black in color. Billbugs can be controlled by a Bayer product called Advanced Garden Lawn and Garden Insect Killer and the main ingredient is Cyfluthrin. Be sure to follow the label directions. If this isn't your problem, call the Master Gardener Clinic for further discussion at 574-1600 on Mondays, Wednesdays or Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

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I have had a hard time dealing with powdery mildew this year. Please give me some tips to help me.

Even though you may have this fungal condition on many types of plants, most are specific to a limited host. They are all sort of related, but powdery mildew that attacks your zinnias is not the same as the mildew that attacks your roses.

The good news is that you can treat them all the same way. Wet leaves do not bring this on, as many believe, but high humidity might. We recommend that you water in the mornings so plants have a chance to dry off. It is also a good idea to water at the soil line and not spray the leaves and we also encourage you to prune to allow better air circulation.

You could also use a fungicide to control powdery mildew. Be sure to read the label to see if the plant that is affected is listed. Prune out and clean up affected leaves, but do not compost unless you keep a very hot pile that will kill the pathogen.

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I don't like using chemicals, but what can I do to help prevent diseases or insect infestations.

Of course you want to keep your plants happy so that they do not invite these problems in, and the first step to that happiness is to have them planted in the right location. Should they be in direct sun? Full shade? Do they like well-rained rich soil? Can they tolerate a drought? All these things should be taken into consideration before you do your planting. Plant the right plant for the right place to begin.

Take into consideration new varieties of plants that are more tolerant of diseases. Read the labels that appear on their tags or the seeds you purchase. Rotate your vegetable crops and do not plant veggies from the same families in consecutive years. Learn the vegetable families. Don't overcrowd plants. Give them good air circulation to reduce mildew.

Prune landscape plants at the right time of the year and do it properly to avoid letting in insects. Keep weeds down as they are sometimes a host for plant disease in your garden. They also steal nutrients and water from your desired landscape plants.

Hand-pick large insects when you see them and use a powerful stream of water to reduce small creeping insects like aphids. Encourage predator insects such as lady bird beetles, praying mantis and lacewings. Invite birds into your garden by providing food, water and cover. They eat hundreds of insects every day.

Destroy diseased plants as soon as symptoms appear and do not compost. Cut out any dead and dying parts of trees or shrubs and use a 10% beach solution to clean your pruning tools.

Clean up the garden/yard in the fall by raking up leaves, seeds, twigs, etcetera. Consider applying dormant oil in the spring on your trees to cut down on the population of aphids and scale. Read labels and use them properly.

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I bought a Brandywine tomato plant from the Master Gardener's plant sale and it has really produced for us and we love the taste of this variety. Please tell me how to save seed so I can have them again next summer.

Brandywine is an heirloom so saving seeds is a good thing to do. Heirloom varieties are open-pollinated by bees and wind so this means that their seeds will reproduce accurately for as long as people are willing to save seeds and plant them. On the other hand, hybrids are deliberate, man-made cross-fertilization of two different varieties, and when you plant seeds from them, you can't be sure you will get the same tomato you originally had.

To save seeds, choose a nice, healthy tomato and slice it crosswise. Take a spoon and scoop out all the pulp and put into a cup or bowl. Add a couple of tablespoons of water, put on a plastic wrap top, puncture a hole in the plastic and put in a warm location. Each night remove the plastic wrap and stir and then put the plastic back on. This takes about two or three days.

Next, take the container to the sink, remove any scummy substance on the surface and then pour the contests into a fine kitchen sieve. Rinse the seeds with water several times. Pour seeds into a coffee filter and spread them out into a single layer. Stir them daily until dry. You can tell they are dry when they move around freely and are not stuck to the paper. When you are absolutely sure they are dry, store in a paper envelope, not plastic, and put in a cool place. Good luck.

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How do I get rid of morning glory in my flower garden?

We presume you are talking about the weed, morning glory or bindweed. This is a tough weed to get rid of. It is spread by rhizomes so comes up everywhere. It has small white or pink blooms and winds itself around and over many of your plants. When we try to pull it, it only breaks off and comes up even more. You could try a cultural method such as thick layers of newspapers covered with several inches of mulch, but even then, you may still have some come up.

We suggest you use an herbicide such as Roundup and this is the perfect time to spray. During bloom time the plant is weaker because all its strength is going towards reproduction. Spraying in a flower garden takes special care through as Roundup is non-select and will kill any plant it is sprayed on. Use a cardboard to shield your ornamentals. If you do not have many landscape plants in the area, consider removing them and then spray the whole planting bed. Wait before you replant and see if you need to spray it again to get all the morning glory. Check the root area of the plants you dug to see if there are any rhizomes hiding there.

When using a chemical such as Roundup, be sure to read and follow label directions.

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My corn has something strange growing on it. It looks like tiny mushrooms and has some black sooty substance on it. What is going on?

There is smut going on in the corn patch. Corn smut is a fungal disease and once it is there you cannot do much about it. Pick off all affected ears and destroy. Do not leave them lying on the ground as the smut will open and tiny spores will be released in the air creating more problems. Do not compost.

In the fall, do a good job of cleanup in your corn patch and next spring rotate to a different area. Do not plant corn in the same area for at least three years. Also consider planting some new varieties next year that are resistant to corn smut. Four varieties are Blitz, Commander, Goldie and Reliance.

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I am digging some of my carrots and they look like little men. They seem to have two roots on them and some of them are cracked. What is wrong and what can I do?

Those forked roots are caused by the carrot seedling hitting a rock or some hard object. To avoid that next year, rototill deep and clear that area of any rocks. The cracks are caused by uneven watering. Carrots like to have even moisture instead of periods of heavy watering and then drought.

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-- I am interested in composting but have a very small yard and no place to put a big composter. Any ideas on composting on a small scale?

-- I have many limitations that prohibit me from working at a compost bin, but I am interested in recycling my kitchen waste without putting it in my garbage can. How can I do some composting?

We will try to answer both questions with some good ideas for you. There are many ways to compost and we should all find the best that fit our abilities.

When we try to make quick compost, we shred all the material, both green and brown, mix it all together and then we must turn this almost daily to keep it stirred up and the heat going. This is very hard work. Some of the commercial composters are quite small and the idea here is just layer all your refuse and then close it off and use it the next growing season when it is finished. The advantage of this type is that it is covered and allows you to put kitchen scraps into it without worry of rodents.

Composting in rows in your garden can be done too. Simply dig or have someone dig a deep row for you. Each time you have kitchen scraps you dump them in the row and cover it all up well with soil and let it decompose. This works great if you do not have dogs.

Sheet composting is another method. When you harvest this fall, simply leave all the debris, such as pumpkin vines, etcetera, right where they are, or set aside an area in the vegetable garden for this project and add any grass clippings, etcetera, and cover it all with leaves. Next spring, simply pull back and plant and do not till the area. As your vegetables grow, use mulch for a weed barrier as well as to help store moisture and keep layering. The advantage of this is that you do not ever till this area, which disturbs the soil and brings many weed seeds to the surface to germinate and you also will help the quality of your soil, because of the composting.

Another way of composting is vermiculture which is composting with worms. We are talking about red wigglers here and they will eat your garbage and return rich casting for use in your garden. Your worms can be kept inside our house, which allows anyone to tend them. They like cool temperatures and need to be kept where it is quiet and dark. A basement is ideal but they might also live in a spare room or under the sink. You can build your own box for them, or you can purchase worm condos that are specifically designed for them, or use a covered plastic container. You cannot feed them meat or dairy and we don't recommend potato or onion peelings because of possible viruses, but do feed them all scraps of vegetables and fruits. They must have bedding which can be straw or torn-up newspapers. For more information on worm composting, check out Worms Eat My Garbage from the Yakima Library, keyword Vermiculture on the web, or call Judy Adams at 966-7663, who raises worms.

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I took a tour of the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden and was so impressed by the variety of wildlife. How can I achieve that?

Volunteers from the program have only been working on that area for two years, but they have always kept wildlife in mind as they progress. Wildlife, from bumblebees to bunnies, need the same as we do -- and that is food, water and shelter. They have planted so there is constant bloom for the nectar/pollen feeders; have given consideration to shrubs and trees that will produce a berry; and created dense areas by close planting and making brush piles.

They also have a water feature that shows motion to attract birds and have hung several nesting boxes and seed and hummingbird feeders. They have registered their garden with the Washington State Backyard Habitat Program and you can too. When you receive the packet from them, it gives you valuable information about nesting boxes, lists of recommended plant material and ideas to bring more wildlife in your yard. Contact them by going to wdfw.wa.gov/wlm/backyard/

Come visit the Demonstration Garden, located at the Ahtanum Youth Park, near the barn.

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This is my first year to grow tomatillos and I saw a photo that called them husk tomatoes. Are there two names for this plant?

They are two different plants. The photo you saw probably showed the fruit from the husk tomato which is very similar to the tomatillo, but that is where the difference ends. Tomatillos are grown like tomatoes and are not interchanged for green tomatoes, although they look somewhat the same. The plants are tall, from three to four feet, have a yellow bloom and beautiful fruit that is encased in a papery shell. That fruit is used in many Mexican recipes. They give sauces a rich, distinctive flavor. The most popular use is in the salsa verde or green taco sauce. After harvest, remove the papery shells and bag them and freeze for use in the winter.

Husk tomatoes, or ground cherries as they are sometimes called, are grown like tomatoes also and their fruit is about the size of a cherry tomato. Fruits are produced inside a paper-like husk and when ripe turn brown and fruits will drop from the plant. The fruit can be used in pies and jams or could be dried in sugar like raisins. If you have eaten Hawaii's Poha jam, the ingredient in it is husk tomatoes. Both can be grown here, but both take from ninety to one hundred days to mature.

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I have had a dickens of a time with white flies in my greenhouse. It is empty right now and I want to try to do better. I am bringing in some of my tender plants and want to be armed and ready for trouble. Give me some ideas please.

Give your greenhouse a good cleaning and when you bring in any plants that have been outside, give them a good examination to see if you have any insects. Don't stop there, though, but check them often the first weeks. If you have been using an insecticide, whiteflies quickly build up a resistance to them and when you use an insecticide you kill off their natural predators. Try to use a more balanced approach. Hose off all the plants that are affected and be sure to check the undersides of the leaves where the nymphs are usually found. If you find evidence of insects, use an insecticidal soap, which is less harmful to the whiteflies natural enemies. Lastly, install yellow sticky traps near our plants. You can either buy them, or make them yourself by cutting 1/4-inch plywood into 6x6 inch pieces, painting them yellow to attract insects and mounting them on wooden stakes. Cover the boards with a sticky substances such as Tanglefoot and place each stake so that it faces the plant, but out of the sun.

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My neighbor has a bush that he calls "Bluebeard" and it is beautiful right now. What is the Latin name for this plant?

Your neighbor's Bluebeard's formal name is Caryopteris and it is indeed beautiful right now. Caryopteris love sun and are drought tolerant and ideal for this area. Pruning is done in the spring and it is advised to prune clear to the ground. All those beautiful blue flowers are grown on this year's growth.

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I grew gladiolus for the first time this year and they were beautiful. I would like to try to save them over for next season. Can you give me advice?

When your glads have finished blooming, remove the stalk they bloomed from, but not the leaves. The leaves take nourishment to the corms, so wait for the next step when the leaves turn brown. Take a shovel and gently lift the corms from the soil making sure you stay back far enough not to damage or cut the corms with your shovel. Cut the stem off about one inch above the corm and remove any soil clinging to them. Place the corms in single layers in trays or boxes and keep them in an airy, dry place for one or two weeks until they are completely dry. Now sort them, breaking away any shriveled or tiny corms from the larger ones. Inspect them for any rot or other damage too. Store them in a mesh bag in a cool, dry place where they are protected from freezing. Note: The tiny corms you sorted out can be planted the following spring too, but will not be mature enough to bloom. You will be only "growing" larger corms for later use.

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I have left many of my Wonder bell peppers on the plant hoping that they will turn red, but it doesn't seem to be happening. What can I do?

Answer: You might try this ripening trick for this year and we can give you some tips here for next year's growing season. Take six or seven of the mature green peppers that have firm walls and maximum size. Put them in a bag with an apple and store in a medium cool (50 degrees) dark place. The apple will release ethylene gas to mature the peppers and turn them red.

Next growing season, try to warm your pepper plants up a bit. Bell peppersneed warm nights and approximately twenty days beyond the mature greenstage to turn red. Grow them in black plastic mulch, which will warm the soil,and under a floating row cover, which will warm them at night, for the entire growing season.

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Please define what an arbor, trellis and pergola are.

Answer: All of these structures are used for support for plants that are vining, but

there are differences. We looked up this question in a dictionary and here is

the answer for you. An arbor is described as a shaded sitting place, and a trellis is a structure that supports climbing plants. But it says far more to define what is a pergola. A pergola is a structure usually consisting of parallel columns supporting an open roof of girders and cross rafters. It creates a shaded walkway.

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What causes those big web-looking areas in the trees growing along the Yakima river?

Answer: We think you might be talking about the Fall Webworms. This is the time of the year that we notice this insect. They are found in groups, sort of a family, all contained in a big web-like structure. They feed together on the leaves of many plants, consuming leaves and leaving skeletonized areas behind them. They are yellowish-brown with black and orange bumps that have long tuffs of whitish hairs.

They form these large conspicuous tents in late summer. Check your own landscape plants for the fall webworms and if you have them, simply prune out the whole mass and either burn or wrap in a bag and put it in the refuse.

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Seeds have become so expensive that I am thinking of saving my own. Can you teach me how to do this so I am successful?

Answer: We can teach you how to save some seed, but must advise you that not all seed is worth saving. We do not advise you to save seeds from hybrids, which are plants developed by crossing specific parent plants. Hybrids can give you wonderful results, but the seeds you save may not be as good.

We encourage you to save from heirloom seeds, but also remember that these are pollinated by bees and the wind so varieties must be grown distances from one another or they will cross pollinate, and your seeds will not be the same as the parent plant.

When saving seed, always harvest from the best. Choose disease-free, fully matured plants with qualities you like. When saving vegetable seeds such as cucumbers, wait till the end of the season because you must leave them on to mature and that will reduce the vigor of the plant and slow down production. Cucumbers are not mature at the eating stage, but you must wait until they are firm, big and yellow. The same goes for flowers. We always encourage you to deadhead to keep them blooming, but if you want seeds to save you must leave those spent flowers on to make seed, so again wait till the end of the season.

Seeds need to be mature on the plant, not picked and wait for them to 'change.' Seeds are mature or ripe when they appear dry, or have turned color. Remember also that when many seeds mature, birds will like them too.

Seeds such as beans, peas, corn and most flowers are prepared by a dry method. Keep the seed on the plant and let it dry as long as you can, and then pick and dry by spreading out on paper.

Seeds contained in fleshy fruits such as the above mentioned cucumbers, and melons and squash are saved using a wet method. Scoop out the seeds, with the pulp. Add a little water and let this ferment for a few days, drain it all in a sieve and lay the seeds out to dry.

All seeds must be completely dry or they will mold, so don't get in a hurry to store them. When you do, put into a paper envelope, label, and store in a cool place.

Don't entirely rely on this method for your next year's garden. Do a bit of Experimenting, but be prepared to spend some money to buy those new hybrids too. We wouldn't have all the wonderful heirlooms we have today without our ancestors saving seeds to pass on to us.

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I have a large, beautiful coleus outside planted in the ground and I want to pot it up and bring it into the house. How can I do this with little shock to the plant?

Answer: A few weeks before you want to repot it, why not take some cuttings to ensure the continuation of this plant if something goes wrong. Using a clean sharp knife, remove some stems about four to six inches long. Cut each of them just above a node.

Remove all the lower leaves to create a length of stem, and leave only a few leaves at the top. Place a piece of chicken wire on a jar of water, fill the jar with water and insert each stem into the holes of the wire. Place in a shaded place and check often to keep the water up to the top of the jar. In just a short time, you will have rooted stems. Take them one at a time and plant them in four inch pots, using good potting soil. Water well and keep out of direct sun.

You should have enough new plants to share with others, perhaps for Christmas gifts.

Now about that repotting job. Keep an eye on the weather so that you do this digging long before a frost, as coleus is a tender plant. Do this job in the early morning or evening so that it isn't the hottest part of the day. Prepare a large pot with good potting soil, and make sure the pot has a hole at the bottom for drainage. Using a shovel, cut down all around the plant and lift it gently and get it into the pot. Do not cover it with more soil than what the original soil line was. Water well and store out of direct sunlight. Good luck.

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I am forever asking myself “What’s wrong with these plants?” Can you provide an outline of what do look for in my attempt to answer this question?

Answer: A pragmatic approach coupled with some keen observation helps any gardener diagnose plant problems. The following is a guideline that you may find useful in identifying and resolving plant issues:

Identify the symptoms.

· Are the leaves yellow or browning? It is worse on the leaf edges or in the middle of the leaf?

· Are older or younger leaves showing symptoms?

· Are there spots on leaves and stems? Are these spots of a uniform size or are they of many different shapes and sizes?

· Is only the upper or lower surface of leaves showing symptoms or both tops and bottoms/

· Are plants wilting?

Determine if there is a pattern to the symptoms.

· Do all plants show symptoms or is it crop specific, i.e. only the tomatoes and not the beans?

· Does the problem seem worse on the garden’s edge or is it uniform throughout?

· Do the affected plants sit in a low spot or in an area with obviously compacted soil?

Trace the problem’s history.

· When were the symptoms first noticed?
· What rates of fertilizer and/or lime were used?
· What pesticides and/or herbicides were used?
· What was the weather like before you noticed the problems-cool or warm, wet or dry, windy, etc.

Examine the plant carefully to determine if the problem seems to be caused by insects, diseases or management practices.

· Insects: Look for their presence or feeding signs on leaves, stems and roots. Sometimes it is easier to find insects early in the morning or toward evening.

· Disease: Look for dead areas on roots, leaves, stems and flowers. Are the plants wilting even though soil moisture in plentiful? Are the leaves spotted or yellowed? Are the any signs of bacterial or fungal growth (soft rots, mildew, spores, etc)? Look for virus symptoms such as stunted plants or obvious growth malformations.

Could pesticide injury be at fault?

· Were any insecticides or fungicides applied? Remember, copper and sulfur fungicides can burn plants if applied in hot weather.

· Broadleaf week killers applied to lawns can cause abnormal growth or even kill many garden plants nearby. Tomatoes are especially sensitive. Beware of using lawn clipping mulch which may have residual herbicide.

Could there be nutritional problems?

· Nitrogen – light green or yellow older foliage
· Phosphorus – stunted plants and purplish leaves.
· Potassium – brown leaf margins and leaf curling.
· Boron – Growing points die back and leaves are distorted
· Iron – light green or yellow foliage on youngest leaves.

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I planted spinach in late August and have been using some already. Is it true that I can over-winter my spinach and it will resume growth and I will have more spinach again early next spring?

Unless our winter is extremely cold, the roots of your spinach should live and begin growing again in early spring. Many gardeners do not realize that by planting spinach in late summer or early fall they can get a jump-start on next spring’s garden. (This is not true of most other cool season crops, however.)

To insure that your spinach makes it through winter, mulch it with straw or shredded leaves. Three inches of mulch should be enough. And next spring when most gardeners are just planting their spinach, you will be counting the days until you can begin harvesting yours.

You can also outsmart those pesky flies, whose larva are leaf miners, before they have a chance to ruin your crop by covering your spinach with a spun bonded polypropylene fiber row cover, such as Reemay.

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We have several Colorado spruces that we planted year before last. What is the best way to give them a last good watering to get them safely through winter?

All trees, especially evergreens, need to go into winter with a good reserve of water in the soil that surrounds their roots. Moist soil is slower to freeze than dry soil, so moist soil gives your spruces protection against root damage caused when the soil freezes.

Evergreens also need a good supply of water during winter because they do not go into complete dormancy, as do deciduous trees. They continue to respire (give off water through their needles) during winter, though at a slower rate than when they are actively growing.

The root systems of most trees grow beyond the drip line, but if you soak the soil at that point, they should receive an ample supply for at least most of the winter. Encircle just outside the drip line with a soaker hose, the kind made from recycled tires that ooze out water slowly. Leave on the water for several hours.

Check how far down the water has soaked by pushing a spade into the ground about as far as it will go. Then rock your spade forward several inches and remove the spade. This should open up a profile of the soil and show how far down the soil has soaked. Then step on the soil above the spade’s to close it. Keeping in mind that most tree roots grow no deeper than 18 inches, your goal should be to soak the soil down to at least 12 inches.

If our winter turns out to be unusually dry and the soil isn’t frozen, it would be worth the cost to use your municipal water to repeat the watering in late winter.

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We moved from the West side this summer and have just finished installing a wood stove, and we have been to the mountains to cut wood. How much ash can we safely use to improve the soil in our flowerbeds and vegetable garden?

There certainly is an amount of ash you should use in your gardens, and the amount is zero! West of the cascades you could use wood ash with good results, but not in Eastern Washington. The best thing to do is to send all of the ash from your wood stove to the landfill.

The reason? Ashes added to our soils make them more alkaline, and most of our soils are already alkaline, sometimes too much so. Our problem is usually trying to lower the alkalinity. Instead, adding ash would raise the pH. Western Washington has just the opposite problem—their soil is often too acidic. Adding wood ash to their soil works quite well in lowering the pH, or acidity.

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October in the Garden

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” --Albert Camus

October signals the end of the outdoor growing season with its kaleidoscope of leaf colors. Take time to pause and enjoy all the wonders that fall has to offer, then there are many chores in your yard and gardens that need attending to. They needn’t be overwhelming if you plan to take on a few tasks each day.

Those fall leaves, whose colors act as flowers of a second spring, will begin falling and fading soon. And that means they need to be cleared from the lawn. Don’t wait until your trees are bare to start raking. If you do, an early snowfall could turn your lawn into a soggy mess.

But don’t rake them, just yet! Run over them with your lawn mower before they begin to pile up. You may need mow over them more than once, but soon they will just seem to disappear into your grass where the micronutrients will eventually break them down and their micronutrients will work their way into the soil and enrich it.

If there are lots of deciduous trees in your lawn—and those of your neighbors—you will likely need to get out your leaf rakes and gather them up, but don’t send them to the landfill. Instead, bag them and save for use in your compost pile this fall. Set several bags aside to use for composting next spring when you find you have lots of green material but few browns to use in making compost.

While clearing the clutter of leaves may be one of your most obvious fall gardening chores, there are host of other jobs that need to be attended to before the snow flies:

· Make sure you have planted all those spring bulbs have been planted. It’s not too late to get them into the ground so they can develop feeder roots before the soil freezes.

· Clear your vegetable garden and annuals flowerbeds. All garden debris can go directly into your compost pile, except those that might be diseased. Diseased garden debris should be sent out to the landfill.

· Leave flowering plants, such as cosmos, sunflowers and black-eyed Susans standing in your garden until the birds have finished dining on the seed heads.

· Give your trees, especially your evergreens, one last, long drink before your irrigation is shut off for the season. Evergreens do not go completely dormant and will continue to need a reserve of water in the soil to get them safely through winter.

· Get your last, and most important, lawn fertilizing taken care of and watered in before irrigation companies shut down for the season, which is usually about the middle of October.

· Soon after your irrigation system shuts down, winterize your automatic sprinkling system. That includes having your lines blown out to prevent them from freezing and breaking. Your lawn service can do these tasks for you. Also, remember to drain and store your garden hoses.

· Make sure you have dug and stored all tender summer bulbs that include dahlias, glads and cannas. They are unlikely to survive if they are left in the ground over winter.

· Leave heavy pruning of roses until next March, but prune out any broken and diseased canes. Also, remove any extra-long canes that would likely be broken by winter storms.

· Keep a supply of soil handy to mound up around the base of your roses after the ground has begun to freeze.

· The beauty of ornamental grasses is at its height during late fall and winter. Leave cutting back of ornamental grasses until just before growth resumes in the spring.

· Clean and store all your garden tools, except those you may still need, such as leaf rakes. Don’t wait until next spring to have your lawn mower serviced and tuned up—next spring small engine repair businesses will be overwhelmed with work and you may not be able to get your lawn mower back before time for the first mowing.

· Make a colorful Halloween display near your entryway to your house using dried cornstalks, pumpkins. Finish the effect by sprinkling some of the colorful leaves that have fallen from your trees and shrubs.

This is not a complete list of fall garden chores—you will be aware of many others as you complete one task after another. And do take time to enjoy all the beauty that autumn brings.

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Is it too late to spray weeds?

Not at all, at least for perennial weeds that often plague our gardens As for annual weeds, it would be a better idea just to hoe them out or hand pull them. They are at the stage where they have already set seed; so don’t put them in your compost pile. The heat of an active pile may not be hot enough to kill the seeds. Send them to the landfill, instead.

Field bindweed is one of our most pernicious perennial weeds. You may have fought it all summer by trying to dig it out, and all most certainly you lost the battle. Let it grow until it blooms, then spray with glyphosate, such as Roundup. After a week or more it will be translocated to the roots and they will be killed. This doesn’t mean that you will be entirely free of bindweed next spring, but it will be knocked back and weakened considerably. By following this routine for the next several falls, you may actually be able to rid your garden of field bindweed.

Quack grass is another thug in our gardens. Now would be a good time to attack it also with a glyphosate spray. You can battle quack grass anytime during the growing season using glyphosate. Just keep in mind that glyphosate products are broad-spectrum herbicides and will damage or kill almost any plant the spray happens to drifts onto. With this in mind, use herbicides only when there is no wind.

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I was given some garden huckleberry plants this spring. They grew into plants about three or four feet tall. The plants don’t resemble huckleberries, and the black shiny berries don’t, either. What are they and can they be used in place of huckleberries to make pie?

Garden huckleberries are not related to what we know as huckleberries. They are actually annuals that are members of the nightshade family, along with poison nightshade, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and eggplant.

Garden huckleberries are also called wonderberries, which is a better name—gardeners who grow them might wonder why they bothered bothering with them! University of Idaho Extension says this about garden huckleberries: “The flavor is often described as less than palatable….”

Apparently some gardeners do like the taste—several seed catalogs have their seeds for sale. They can be used in pies once the shinny berries have lost their gloss. They can also be used along with grapes, lemons and apples to make jelly. They need a considerable amount of sweetening, however.

One caution: Unripe wonderberries are bitter and are somewhat toxic. Rather than bothering to grow garden huckleberries, why not plan on a jaunt to the Cascades next fall to pick genuine, and very tasty, huckleberries?

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Can I dig my beautiful caladium plant and bring it inside to be enjoyed during winter?

You can carefully dig your caladium and transplant it into a large pot for your enjoyment this winter. Plan on digging your tropical beauty before the first frost is forecast. Be careful not to damage the roots when you dig it and transplant it into a container. Transition it into the warmth of your home gradually. First put it on a sheltered porch or patio for a few days, and then move it into the house. Finally, place it where it will get several hours of sunlight a day.

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Many years ago I read Betty Smith’s book, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn. I have often wondered what kind of tree it was. Can you track that down?

Yes, the tree of the book’s namesake is called the tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima). But don’t run out and buy one next spring! This native of China was brought to France in the middle 1700s and to the United States in 1784.

The tree of heaven will grow just about any place, in vacant lots and even in cracks in sidewalks. It spreads rapidly through its windblown seed. A fast growing tree, the tree of heaven is most often listed as a weed tree. You will find this unlovely tree growing in many vacant lots and alleys in towns throughout our valley.

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Free Gardening Class!

When? Saturday, October 20 at 10:00 a.m., at the Demonstration Garden located in the Ahtanum Youth Park near the barn. Bring the kids and come join us for some fun drawing faces on Jack-Be-Little pumpkins. Master Gardeners will furnish all you need for this fun morning. See you there!

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I planted too many carrots and we won’t be able to use them all before winter comes. Can they be left in the ground and dug when we need them?

Yes indeed! Carrots stored in the ground, covered by a heavy mulch will store quite well through winter. In fact, they are sweeter when stored in the ground than they were during summer or fall.

Wait until the ground begins to freeze before you mulch them. Make sure the soil around your carrots is moist before you mulch them for winter. After you see that the first inch or so of the surface freezes, cut off the tops, but leave the roots undisturbed. Cover your carrots with about a foot of shredded leaves or straw. Or you can throw on bags of leaves you have saved for composting next spring.

It would also be a good idea to put stakes that are at least 1-½ feet tall to mark the location of your carrots, in case we have some heavy snows. Otherwise, you may have a hard time locating just where your carrots are when your garden is covered with a blanket of snow.

Dig the last of your carrots by early April before the soil begins to warm and your carrots begin growing again. Once they resume growing in early spring, they quickly loose their fine flavor as they begin to grow rapidly and set seed.

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When I brought my houseplants inside from my deck, some of the lower leaves turned yellow and dropped. I think most of them will live, but they aren’t a pretty sight. What caused this to happen?

Most of us don’t move our houseplants back inside until the temperatures have cooled in fall. When we move them inside, the temperature indoors is quite a bit warmer than the cooler temperatures they became used to outdoors, especially at night. Your houseplants responded to the shock of sudden temperature changes by dropping some of their leaves.

In most cases, houseplants do eventually adjust to these sudden changes There are, however, some things you can do to help eliminate this shock.

Next year you might want to move your plants indoors earlier -- while the temperatures are about the same outdoors as you keep them indoors. Another way to keep your houseplants from suffering temperature shock is to move them from where they were during summer and early fall to an area that is somewhat warmer than outdoors. You might move them to an unheated garage for a few days, particularly at night. Then move them indoors to one of the cooler areas of your home. After they have become acclimated to warmer temperatures, move them where you plan to keep them during winter and early spring.

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Last fall I bought five beautiful potted mums in full bloom from the floral department at the grocery store. I transplanted them in a flowerbed to enjoy whenever I looked out my kitchen windows. Not one of them survived winter. Why didn’t they live?

Those beautiful potted mums were just meant to add fall color and beauty, not to perennialize and come back year after year. Most of these potted beauties you see in stores during fall aren’t hardy garden mums, which do come back year after year.

Sometimes you can over winter this kind of mums by mulching them heavily so their roots are not killed. Even if they do survive you may be greatly disappointed when they bloom the following fall. It would be better to shop for hardy garden mums at local nurseries or garden centers, instead.

This is not to say you shouldn’t buy ones like you purchased. They may be worth the price for the beauty they give you in the fall.

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Should I cut back my mums now or do it next spring?

Some gardeners cut their mums back to the ground in the fall, while others leave that task for late winter or early spring. By leaving the frosted top growth they get a little extra protection should we have an extra cold winter. Shredded leaves can also be tucked in around the plants that have not been cut back for even more protection. Of course, the dead tops will need to be cut away when new growth appears in the spring.

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What to do in the garden in November.

Well, we look from the beautiful display of fall color in the valley to the clear night sky and we know the frost is upon us, our gardens are moving into dormancy and it’s time to tidy up, protect our plants from possible winter damage and get ready for next year’s growing season.

1. Evergreens need a deep watering before the ground freezes. Some conifer shrubs can be wrapped with a spiral of twine to prevent heavy, wet snow from breaking upright branches.

2. Leaves need to be raked before they mat up and smother the grass. Lawns should be mowed and edged one last time. After two weeks without needing to mow, your lawn is probably sufficiently dormant to apply an organic fertilizer.

3. When the last flowers fade, shrubby or branching perennials (such as mums and yarrow) need to be cut back to encourage bloom next summer. Cut them back one-third to one-half the length of the stems. (Leave clump-forming perennials, such as primroses and gerbera). Remove any material that is diseased or has completed its life cycle. Put old vegetable plants and other vegetative debris that is not diseased on the compost heap. Weeds can be added, if they do not have seed heads. Leaving some flowers and their seed heads as food and habitat for birds and small mammals helps with insect control and adds interest to the winter garden.

4. Mulching prevents soil from alternately freezing and thawing, which can damage roots of half-hardy plants, trees, shrubs and bulbs. Apply a 4 – 6 in. layer of loose organic material—leaves, straw, or compost around the base of plants. To protect roses from temperatures below 10°F, cut back canes, tie together, and then mound soil or mulch one foot high over the base. Additional protection of straw, hay, or mulch secured with mesh cylinders can be added to roses in very cold areas.

5. You may choose to leave some of your root crops such a carrots, turnips, and parsnips in the ground. Mulching these helps to allow for harvest into early winter. Some vegetable crops like Brussels sprouts, cabbage and kale are sweeter after frost, so harvest these as long as you can. Chives, rhubarb and asparagus do not need to be mulched for winter protection. Now is the time to divide rhubarb, chives and perennial herbs. Just dig the whole plant, divide with a shovel and replant the sections, watering them well until the ground freezes.

6. Dig dahlia and gladiola bulbs and store in a cool, dark place over the winter. As long as the ground is not frozen, you can plant crocus, daffodil, tulip, and hyacinth bulbs. Buy bulbs that have not sprouted and plant immediately in holes of the correct depth, cover with soil and wait for spring’s delightful blooms.

7. Pull geraniums that worked well in your containers and flower beds, shake the dirt from the roots and hang upside down in a cool, dark, frost-free location until spring when you can replant them. Once or twice during the winter, you can take them down and soak the roots in water for a couple of hours before replacing them. You’ll have your favorite colors again in the spring!

8. If you planted young trees this year, you may want to paint some white latex paint (thinned with some water) on the lower section of the trunk, about four feet high. This white area reflects the warm south sunlight and prevents the trunk of the tree from warming too much and cracking if it freezes hard at night.

9. This is the time to gather, organize, clean and repair all your garden tools. Bring in those hoses, wands, and irrigation supplies, too. Hoses make for slippery footing under the snow, and you don’t want them to freeze and crack! Make sure your irrigation lines are drained and dry, also.

10. Don’t forget to bring in any house plants you placed outside for the summer and be sure to check them thoroughly for bugs you don’t want in your home.

11. Just to extend your enjoyment of gardening into the winter, buy yourself a potted Amaryllis—for a small investment you get a beautiful flowering plant just when flowers seem to be last summer’s memory.

12. Lastly, grab a notebook, and take some walks—enjoy the fall colors in our beautiful parks, the Greenway and the Arboretum. Then, walk through your house and yard, observing your garden from each window and view point, making notes on what’s working and what needs to be changed, planted, moved, or evaluated for next year. You’ll have several quiet months to research, design, and make plans and decisions for your 2008 garden.

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I’ve added several containers of perennial and annuals to my gardening this year. What can I do to protect them this winter?

Because the roots of container plants are usually only a few inches from the walls of the containers, they do not have the same protection from freezing temperatures that in-ground plantings have. Special measures are needed to protect the perennials you’d like to over winter. If your containers are plastic, they can usually be moved to protected areas and covered with soil and leaves until spring. The larger the container, the better the chances this will be successful. Ceramic or clay pots may freeze and break during cold weather and need some planning to protect them and their plants. Perennials can be removed from these pots in the fall and heeled into vegetable or flower beds for the winter. Be sure to provide good drainage for these plants and cover with available soil. To protect pottery containers, be sure they have drainage holes in the bottoms, and that you have used a lightweight soil and allowed sufficient time for the soil to dry prior to the first heavy freeze. If not, remove wet soil to prevent it from freezing, expanding and breaking the pot.

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Are there any plants that I can leave in my larger containers in the fall?

“Hardy”, “drought tolerant”, “protected” and “mild” are the words here. You want hardy and drought tolerant plants, protected locations (northern/eastern with roof overhangs) and mild weather for as long as possible if you plan to keep your containers planted. Some plantings to try are: dwarf varieties of evergreens such as arborvitae, Alberta spruce, and boxwoods; ornamental cabbages and kale; ivy; hardy succulents such as Sempervivum tectorum (Hen-and-Chicks) and Sedum spurium; New Zealand Flax; blue fescue; and Acorus gramineus ogon (a grass-like plant that will flop over the sides of containers). These have all been used successfully in this area. Hardy geraniums, pansies, lavender and coral bells will often continue to bloom and allow your containers to bring beauty and interest to your patios and gardens well into the fall and early winter. As the weather cools, water lightly to keep the soil from being wet at the time it does freeze. How long your container plantings will survive depends on the type of pot, exposure, severity of temperatures and microclimates in which they are placed—experimentation will determine what works with your pots and locations.

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I’m making my Christmas list! Are there any “must-haves” for the gardener?

1. Shovel or spade—whichever one works for you. A light, narrower (5 ½”) spade is easier to maneuver between plants. If you are tall, make sure it has a long enough handle—they are available in longer lengths.

2. Spading fork—again check for the most useful width of the fork and the length of the handle.

3. Hard-toothed metal rake—the foot wide kind that is very useful for soil preparation. Check handle length!

4. Scuffle hoe—also called the oscillating or stirrup hoe. It cuts both backwards and forwards and slices weed roots right under the surface.

5. Standard hoe—very useful for larger weeds and soil preparation. It should come to just under your nose when held upright.

6. Trowel—stainless steel, comfortable, with sharp blade and bright colored handle so you can find it.!

7. Claw—or hand fork for weeding, planting, and working small areas.

8. Shrub clippers—for tidying up grass where the mower can’t reach, and clipping hedges and other plants. Choose a model with comfortable handles and blades that are notched at the base for cutting stems.

9. Pruners—or garden shears for dead-heading, cutting flowers, and light pruning. It is important that they fit your hand and are comfortable.

10. Loppers—for serious pruning. A curved blade against a curved groove will give you a good grip on the branches.

11. Dandelion lifter or Japanese gardening knife or other good weeding tool.

12. 5.8 in. hose—and spray attachments. Not just for watering—also useful for determining curved lines when designing new planting beds.

13. Watering can—2 gallon, with a long spout, and well-balanced with different sprinkler heads.

14. Wheelbarrow—check its width if you have narrow paths or gates.

15. Plastic or nylon bucket—for mixing, collecting debris, etc.

16. Small tarp--useful for collecting and carrying debris.

16. Gloves—vinyl palms and fabric backs are a great development in gardening gloves—they protect with comfort and flexibility. A pair of gauntlets to protect lower arms when pruning roses are also helpful.

17. Green twine—disappears into foliage.

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I have a lot of leaves and yard waste this year. Is there a way to dispose of them in the city of Grandview?

You can request extra cans for your regular garbage pickup or you can take your loose (not bagged) pickup/truck loads of yard waste to the Public Works Shop at 603 N. Willoughby Road. The loads can’t be more that the height of the top of the truck bed and must be covered with a tarp or netting and must be tied down. The cost is $6.91 per load and you need to stop in the office when you arrive. Hours are Monday through Thursday, 8:00 – 4:00 p.m. and Friday, 8:00 – 3:00 p.m. If you have questions, please call 882-9211.

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I’d like to design a minimum-care perennial flower border garden for planting next spring. Any suggestions?

If you have selected a site that receives at least 6 full hours of sun, and you have approximately 6’ by 20’ of space, a plan called “Beautiful Easy Perennials” in Beautiful Easy Flower Gardens by Laurence Sombke (Rodale Press, 1995.) is one that has worked for me for a decade. All the plants recommended are garden classics that multiply from year to year, have long-lasting blooms and are easy to grow. This plan will provide colorful blooms from early spring to late fall and brighten your border area all year. In this plan 3 – 4 dozen bulbs--crocuses, daffodil, and tulips--are planted in drifts along the center of the border (very visible in early spring, but then hidden as their foliage fades). The front lineup includes sweet Williams (one for each end), daylily, bearded iris, ‘Autumn Joy’ sedum, coreopsis, columbine and garden mums. In the back, behind the bulbs, are a butterfly bush, purple coneflower, phlox, orange cornflower, Shasta daisy and gayfeather. A peony is planted centrally as well. Pick colors that you like, keeping in mind which plants will be blooming together (phlox, daylilies and cornflowers, for example.) The peony and the bulbs will need to be planted in the fall, so if your site is not already prepared, you can plant the rest of the flowers in the spring after you have tilled, tested and amended the soil; then plant the peony and bulbs in the fall. Choose cultivars that are hardy for your microclimate and a phlox that is disease-resistant. A soaker hose and a layer of mulch that will decompose will make watering, weeding and fertilizing a breeze. Like most perennials, many of these plants will need to be divided and/or cut back after about three years and instructions for doing this can be found in the book or by calling your Master Gardener hotline.

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As I’m looking forward to next year’s garden, I’m really wanting to create a more unified landscape, a more natural and comfortable environment. Any suggestions?

While our landscape and garden needs separate areas for different functions, there are some principles that we can keep in mind when our goal is to simplify and unify the space:

1. Use local rock and wood products that seem natural and familiar (Local products are likely to be cheaper, too!)

2. Use your home’s interior decorating materials—repeat slate, tile and color selections outdoors in patio areas. Repeat the style and the details already present in your home when you build projects for the yard and garden.

3. Use the same trees, plants and building materials that are already used in yours and neighboring yards. You’ll benefit from their experiences with hardiness and pest issues and your yard will look as if it belongs on your street.

4. Use no more than two or three different building materials for outdoor structures, paths, patios and retaining walls.

5. Limit the number of species of trees (2 – 3), shrubs (3 – 4) and types of flowers (6-8) when repetition and familiarity are needed.

6. Gradual transitions between the different elements in a landscape will improve a sense of unity. A foundation planting of shrubs and flowers create a gradual transition between house and yard thay unifies the house with its surroundings. Soften other boundaries, such as between the yard and adjacent properties, also.

6. Be judicious when adding landscape accessories, such as ponds, wind chimes, bird feeders, family keepsakes, statuary, trellises, arbors, benches, bird baths, etc. Less is more when simplicity is the goal. A few elements will add interest without disrupting the sense of peacefulness.

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I’d like to recycle my leaves and yard waste this fall. Is there any way I can do this in Yakima when I don’t have a compost pile?

Leaves and yard waste that are contained (not bagged) in garbage cans with lids, or loose (not bagged) but secured, tarped and tied down in trucks, or in paper bags, can be taken to the Terrace Heights Landfill at 7151 Roza Hill Dr. The cost to you to dispose of your unbagged recyclable yard waste is $11.60 per ton. This yard waste is shredded and recycled as compost and can be purchased for compost or mulch. (If you are interested in purchasing shredded yard waste, the cost is $2.00 per ton.)

The important point here is that if you want to pay this reduced fee for recycling shreddable yard waste, it cannot be brought to the landfill in black plastic trash bags. If it is, it can be accepted only as regular garbage and will be put directly into the landfill and not composted or recycled. The cost to dispose of yard waste that is brought in black plastic trash bags is the same as if it were regular garbage--$24.00 per ton.

The Yakima County Solid Waste Division is researching and testing a recyclable alternative to the black plastic bag (a bag made from corn) which may be available in the future. If you have any questions, please call Mikal Heintz at 574-2450.

And speaking of yard waste, in the process of tidying up my herb garden area this week, I picked up an empty soda can. When I brought it inside to crush, I noticed that it seemed to have a lump in the bottom that didn’t easily shake out. Curious, I grabbed a flashlight and peered in. Imagine my surprise at the two little beady eyes looking back at me. I had just picked up the temporary home of a very small frog. So, that’s going on my Christmas list—I need a ceramic pot with a small hole at the bottom to replace the can I carefully replaced in my herb garden!

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How can I decide what trees to plant in my yard?

There are so many issues to consider here that a lot of us just keep putting off making the decisions and years go by without trees! Trees offer welcome protection from sun, wind, and noise. They provide privacy, spring and fall color, winter interest, bird and wildlife habitat, focal points, foliage texture and backdrop, character, beauty and a sense of place. And they take up CO2 from the air to help reduce the global warming. No wonder we like them!

But they also have issues. We need to make sure that we choose the best tree for the functions that are the most important to us while avoiding the potential problems that some trees have. It’s important to research the possibilities and consider:

1. Size at maturity. Large trees need to be sited with care. They will most likely outlive you and maybe even your house, creating shade, taking water and nutrients from the soil, and making it more difficult to plant other plants beneath them. Use photos of your house and sketch in the approximate mature size of your selections to help you understand the long term results of your choice.

2. Species issues. Does your selection have an invasive root system (poplar), a tendency to sprout volunteer offspring (aspen), toxic leaves or berries (locust, yew), susceptibility to diseases and pests (elm, pine), lots of litter (chestnut), pruning problems (locust), or a tendency to produce allergies (cedar)? Do you need conifers or broadleaf species, or both?

3. Site issues. Can you easily provide the watering, the winter, wind and heat protection that the tree may need, especially until it is established? Will it interfere with the neighbor’s property or view? Is there likely to be construction near the tree which will create grade or compaction problems?

With these concerns in mind, some good sources for the information to make decisions are: the Master Gardener Program and the Cooperative Extension Service, the Arboretum, local nurseries, landscape professionals, and books. One of my favorite books is “The Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Book of Lists”, by Ray and Jan McNeilan (Taylor Publishing, 1997.) Sunset Books series of gardening books are also highly recommended. “Sunset Western Garden Book”, and its companion books, “Sunset Western Landscaping”, and “Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver” have detailed information on species characteristics and problems. The “Pacific Northwest Landscape Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Manual” by Bobbitt, Van M., et al. and published by Washington State University (1-800-723-1763) focuses on diagnosis and management or problems with trees and shrubs in the Pacific Northwest. www.arborday.com also has helpful information.

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What is “green” manure? Is it easier to use than compost?

For hundreds of years, farmers have used green manures in rotation with fallow periods as their sole source of nutrients for their crops. Green manures are plants that are grown specifically to be tilled under and thus improve the structure and nitrogen content of the soil. Green manuring is best done either before planting a new area or on a seasonal or rotating basis to renew parts of the garden. It is an easier way to improve soil than making and turning a compost pile. Green manures improve soil drainage in clay soils and improve moisture retention in sandy soils. When the fibrous root systems of annuals such as rye, oats, barley, sudan grass, winter wheat and fescue die, they rot and deposit organic matter much deeper than any type of tilling could. Also, bacteria that live on the roots of legumes, such as clovers, alfalfa and vetch, are able to “fix” atmospheric nitrogen into the soil, reducing (or eliminating) the need for additional fertilizers. The best approach to green manuring is to use both—a ratio of 20% grasses and 80% legumes works well. Prepare the area or bed as if for beans (for legumes) and/or carrots (for small seeds), covering the seeds with a layer of soil three times the diameter of the seeds planted. Turn under (rototill, disc or plow) the young growth into the soil just prior to bloom for legumes and at 4”–12” tall for grasses to maximize the amounts of nutrients available and the ease of decomposition by soil bacteria. In our cold climate, planting will need to be done in the spring, with a fallow (resting) period for that part of your garden that year. Sudan grass can be mowed several times before plowing under. Winter wheat can be planted in the fall and tilled in the spring. In warmer climates, vetch, ryegrass, and bell bean can also be planted as winter cover crops and tilled in the spring.

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Can I feed raw peanuts to the squirrels in my back yard this winter?

Many kinds of raw legumes (including peanuts and soybeans) contain a trypsin inhibitor, a substance that interferes with protein absorption from the intestines of these furry friends. Fortunately, roasting destroys the inhibitor, so that roasted, unsalted peanuts are perfectly safe for them to eat and can be purchased from grocery stores or wildlife feeding sources.

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What to do in the December Garden…

There are probably a few chores to finish up outside before concentrating on the indoor gardening chores.

Roses need to be trimmed back so that winter wind and snow doesn’t break them. Cut rose bushes to about knee high. Mulch 6 to 8 inches around the base of the plants with those late fallen leaves.

Store leftover garden seeds, or the ones you have collected from your plants in a cool, dry location like a sealed jar in the refrigerator.

Clean and oil and sharpen garden tools.

Store any leftover fertilizers or pesticides in a cool (not freezing) dry location, out of the reach of children and pets.

Empty and clean decorative pots and containers and store in side or decorate them for the holidays.

Keep heavy snowfall from damaging the limbs of trees and shrubs by shaking them lightly.

Water newly planted trees and shrubs if dry conditions exist.

Prune branches of evergreens and any other interesting looking foliage for winter decorations.

Turn the compost pile to promote continued breakdown.

Check stored vegetables for spoilage.

Mulch strawberries for winter protection.

Review your mid-winter landscape for any changes you’d like to make such as a bush with colorful berries that hang on into winter.

Feed the birds, especially when a heavy snowfall that has covered their native sources of food. They need water too. If you put out hot water it will soon cool, but cold water may freeze before they get a chance to drink it.

Don’t let your cut Christmas tree dry out and if you have a live one, only keep it in the house for about a week. Then acclimate it to the outdoors and plant in a desirable location.

Work on window boxes, trellises and cold frames in a warm area.

Study the seed catalogs and start planning for next season. Map out your garden and plan for rotation of vegetables.

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Is there a vegetable that grows in Yakima in the winter?

Yes. Amazingly enough, collards, also known as collard greens, tree cabbage or non-heading cabbage grows quite well in the Yakima area. It can be planted in midsummer and left growing in the garden after everything else has been harvested in the fall. This wonderful plant can withstand temperatures down to 10 degrees below zero and still provide you with a fresh, green vegetable in winter. Just be sure to knock the snow off the plants so that the weight doesn’t cause the leaves to break.

Seeds should be sown one-quarter to one-half inches deep. Thin the seedlings to 6 inches apart, and then let them grow until they begin to touch. Then harvest these plants, leaving 18 inches between those remaining. Rows should be 3 feet apart. These plants can become quite large, over 5 feet tall.

You can start harvesting the larger leaves when the plants are about 12 inches tall. Continue to pick the larger, lower leaves on the stalk as the plant matures. The larger the leaves get, the tougher they become. Pick and eat the flower clusters just before they bloom.

The major pest problem for these plants is aphids. Watch for them on the underside of the leaves.

Collards require a bit of time to cook. Depending on the maturity of the leaves, they may take from 20 minutes to an hour of cooking time. To prepare the leaves, remove the though stems and any large central veins. Make a roll of the leaves and cut through the roll, cutting strips about 1 inch across.

Collard greens are traditionally a southern dish and are cooked with seasonings like chili peppers or dried chili pepper flakes, onions, garlic and some bacon, bacon grease or ham hocks. To reduce the fat, try using smoked turkey instead. Boil chucks of the turkey meat in the water for about 15 minutes to soften the meat and flavor the water before adding the rest of the ingredients. Bring the pot to a boil again and then reduce heat to a simmer and cook until greens are tender. Stir the greens, bringing the leaves from the bottom of the pot to the top as they cook.

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More to do in the December Garden…

It is time to finish up the outside chores before settling in for a long winter:

Clean out the gutters and add the debris to the compost pile. Turn the compost pile.

Finish clearing vegetable and annual debris from beds. Turn the soil to interrupt the life cycle of harmful pests.

Apply a layer of green animal manure or mulch to the areas where you will plant vegetables next year. Let the winter rain and snow carry the nutrients down into the soil over winter.

Check winter storage vegetables and bulbs for rot and fungus damage.

Clean tools and oil for winter storage. Clean and organize the tool shed.

Pick up fallen leaves, limbs, and other debris from the lawn to prevent suffocation of the turf during winter.

Store leftover fertilizers out of the reach of children and pets.

If the lawn is frozen, stay off it.

Shake the snow off bushes and plants before limbs are damaged.

Clean and sanitize the bird feeder and then keep it stocked.

Take a walk at the arboretum and see what is happening there.

Check with an elderly friend to see if they need help with putting their yard or garden to sleep for the winter.

Take a well deserved break from outside chores and turn your attention to inside activities:

Monitor houseplants for adequate water, fertilizer and humidity.

Protect poinsettias from the cold. Place them in sunlight, but don’t let the leaves touch the window pane.

Inventory and store leftover seeds in a cool dry place, such as a jar in the refrigerator.

Plan your vegetable garden for next season following guidelines for crop rotation.

Review those seed catalogs that are starting to arrive for your old favorites and something new and interesting. (Don’t forget about the seeds you have stored already. If kept properly, they will be good for next year).

Put a gardening book or tool on your holiday wish list.

Don’t let your Christmas tree dry out.

Take a plant to a shut-in friend and spend some time with them.

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I have some lilac bushes that are overgrown and have become like a thicket. Can I prune them in the winter? And how should I do it?

Regular pruning of lilacs should be done soon after they are done blooming, as the blossoms are formed on new growth. Prune out the spent blossoms to encourage the plant to produce more blooms instead of putting its energy into seed production.

More severe pruning, which it sounds like you want to do, can certainly be done in late winter. March or April is recommended. It takes about three years for buds to form on the new shoots, so if you want to rejuvenate the bush and maintain the formation of blossoms at the same time, trim out one third of the bush each winter over a three year period. Eliminate 1/3 of the shrub by cutting the oldest stalks down to just above the soil level. As you do, allow new shoots to grow up to replace the old ones. Next year, thin out half of the remaining old growth By the end of three years, the entire shrub will have been replaced, and you will not go without lilacs for that period of time.

If your lilacs have become completely out of control and you can’t bear living with them any more, you may want to take the drastic approach of removing all old stock and leave just some of the new shoots. You will be a couple of years without lilac blossoms, but as long as there are a few healthy shoots, they will grow back. Either of these thinning and pruning methods can be done in late winter. If the soil is soft enough, you can pull out the unwanted young shoots and cut the roots where they are connected with pruning shears.

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I am not an expert gardener. Can I still become a Master Gardener?

You don’t have to be an expert to join Master Gardeners and start learning more through the classes and experiences that are offered. Classes for 2008 begin on January 23rd and continue through May 7th. The classes are held at the Barn located in the Ahtanum Youth Park. The address is 1000 Ahtanum Road in Union Gap. The class meets on Wednesdays from 1:00 to 4:00 p.m. You will be encouraged to bring a brown bag lunch and come at noon when Master Gardeners Foundation business is discussed and mini-gardening programs are presented by veteran members. Other learning opportunities take place at the demonstration garden and the greenhouse.

You can obtain a registration form at the WSU Extension offices located on the west end of the second floor of the courthouse in Yakima, or call 509-574-1600 and request to have the form sent to you. Completed registrations need to be turned in as soon as possible as the class size is limited. There is a fee for materials which is partially refunded following the successful completion of volunteer hours.

You will receive 50 plus hours of class instruction covering all aspects of gardening from WSU Extension staff and other highly qualified instructors. All first year members are expected to pay back a like number of hours to the community. This may be accomplished by working in the green house or demonstration garden, presenting programs to clubs and organizations or helping write the Master Gardener newspaper columns. Other ways include helping with the annual plant sale and various other projects sponsored by Master Gardeners. You will also receive a highly informative gardening manual that you will find yourself referring to in subsequent years.

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Every year in the fall we rake the leaves from our yard, bag them up and send them to the landfill. I have heard that leaves can be beneficial in the garden for mulch and compost. How can I use them successfully and keep them out of the landfill?

When falling leaves are drifting by the window, wise gardeners rejoice! Leaves are very useful and beneficial in the yard and garden as a soil conditioner or as mulch. Here are a few ways to use those leaves to make your garden healthier.

* Mulch – When it gets cold enough that the ground begins to freeze, fall leaves can be raked directly into garden beds. Eight or ten inches of loose leaves will form matted mulch around trees, shrubs, roses and over perennials that have been cut back for the winter. The purpose of winter mulch is not to keep the ground warm but to moderate temperature changes and to keep the ground evenly moist. This protects permanent plantings from the freeze/thaw cycle during the winter that can heave and damage roots. To prevent disease and rodent damage do not pile leaves directly against the trunks of threes and shrubs.

A nice thick, continuous layer of leaves will also help prevent weed growth as the weather begins to warm. When bulbs and plants begin to emerge in spring, pull leaves back to let them through.

Mulching the empty raised beds in your vegetable garden with leaves has similar benefits. When you pull the leaves back in the spring you will have a lovely, loose, bare bed ready to plant. As spring progresses into summer any mulch left in place on bare ground or between plantings will help minimize weeds and retain soil moisture. One caution – a thick layer of mulch left in place as the temperatures increase will slow the warming of your soil. For heat loving plants it might be best to remove the mulch until the soil warms sufficiently.

* Compost – Add leaves to your compost pile if you have one. Add some kind of nitrogen to heat up the pile and speed the composting process. A mixture somewhere in the range of 25 parts carbon (dry leaves or other brown stuff) to 1 part nitrogen (manure, blood meal, grass clippings, etc.) by weight will get the pile cooking. Shredding larger leaves will facilitate decomposition. If you don’t have a shredder, mowing leaves into a mower bag can accomplish this, or try putting leaves in a metal garbage can and using a small weed whacker to shred them in the can. BE SURE TO WEAR EYE PROTECTION IF YOU DO THIS! Keep the pile evenly moist and turn it as often as every few days if you can. If you leave it to sit it will still work - just slower.

Leaf mold - Leaf mold is what you get when you compost leaves all by themselves. The cellulose in leaves breaks down rather slowly making them a marvelous water retaining, aerating addition to soil. Although fall leaves add little nitrogen to the mix they are rich in other nutrients including micronutrients that the trees pull from deep within the soil.

Pile the leaves up in some type of enclosure. Fence posts in the ground with wire fencing around work well. Again, shredding will help them break down faster. Keep the pile moist. In our area strong winds can quickly dry out a leaf pile so you might want to line the wire fence with cardboard or plastic. Turn the pile when you can. It will take a long time for your leaves to decompose – be patient. The crumbly, earthy result will be worth the wait. You will probably get a great bunch of worms to add to your garden as well – they love to munch on leaves.

*Give them away – If you are not a gardener but you still want to avoid sending all those bags full of leaves to the landfill find a friend or neighbor who is a gardener and ask if they would like to have your leaves. Chances are they have been eying those bags already. Wise gardeners know that the beautiful fiery orange and gold that enchants us in autumn can truly turn to treasure in the garden

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How can I join the Master Gardener Program?

You can pick up a registration form at the WSU Extension offices located on the west end of the second floor of the courthouse in Yakima, or call 509-574-1600 and ask them to send the form to you. Completed registrations need to be turned in as soon as possible as the class size is limited. There is a fee for materials which is partially refunded following the successful completion of volunteer hours.

Classes for 2008 begin on January 23rd and continue through May 7th at the Barn located in the Ahtanum Youth Park. The address is 1000 Ahtanum Road in Union Gap. The class meets on Wednesday afternoons from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. At noon, before class starts, you are encouraged to bring a sack lunch and attend the business meeting of the Master Gardeners Foundation. There is also a lunch time learning presentation by veteran Master Gardeners during this time.

You will receive more than 50 hours of instruction covering all aspects of gardening from WSU Extension staff and other highly qualified instructors. Topics include Plant Science & Botany, Basic Entomology, Ornamental Grasses, Home Lawns, Waterwise Gardening, Integrated Pest Management and much, much more. You will also receive a highly informative gardening manual that you will find yourself referring to in subsequent years.

All first year members are expected to give back 50 hours in volunteer service through various projects during the year. These opportunities include the annual spring gardening symposium, the plant sale, working in the Master Gardener diagnostic clinic or demonstration garden or writing articles like this for the paper.

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This summer I read that there was an alert about birds getting sick at bird feeders and a request that we stop feeding birds. Now that the snow has fallen and I know the native food is covered, I want to start feeding again. What precautions should I take to make sure the birds at my feeders are safe?

Many avid gardeners enjoy attracting birds to their gardens and landscapes throughout the year through both including plants that will provide food sources for the birds and by using feeders.

Birds can suffer from a variety of diseases and parasites that are easily spread at back yard feeders and water sources, so it is important to employ healthy practices to protect them.

Salmonellosis is a common bacterial infection of the intestines and is spread by infected droppings that contaminate food.

Other diseases like aspergillosis and histoplasmosis are caused by fungi that may grow in damp birdseed or hulls. Birds inhale the aspergillosis spores and become ill.

Histoplasmosis, which can grow in dirt where droppings have built up, does not affect the birds, but can be dangerous to a small percentage of humans. Spores are released when the hulls are raked up and can cause an infection when inhaled.

Avian pox is a virus that is spread by close contact among birds.

There are many more diseases that can plague birds at feeders, but these examples show how the manner in which they spread are enhanced by the feeder situation.

There are simple practices you can follow to ensure the health of your backyard birds:

Provide multiple feeding stations in different areas of the yard. When birds crowd at feeders they can become stressed and more vulnerable to illness. Some diseases are passed by direct contact with infected birds.

Clean your feeders frequently. Weekly cleaning with hot water and soap followed by a soak in a 10% bleach solution is recommended. Rinse and then dry before returning them to use. Special brushes are made for tube feeders.

Keep seed fresh and dry and always provide food in a feeder, not scattered on the ground.

Regularly clean up hulls from under the feeders. Move the feeders periodically to lessen the concentration of droppings.

Provide fresh water daily and clean the water container weekly using the same steps outlined above for the feeders. This is important because besides drinking the water, the birds will be bathing in it as well.

For your own protection, always wash your hands thoroughly after filling of cleaning your feeders and water containers.

Taking these simple precautions will bring you a happy winter of feeder watching.

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My grandchildren are visiting this winter and I would like to do some kind of gardening project with them. Do you have any suggestions?

Putting together a terrarium is an easy project that children enjoy. A terrarium is a transparent container with a miniature landscape of growing plants

Containers:

The container should be made of a clear plastic or glass. Tinted or cloudy material will reduce light and interfere with plant growth. Almost any type of container can be used: fish bowl, glass jar or brandy snifter.

Both open and closed containers can be used for this project. Special consideration is required for both. Plants in closed containers must be tolerant of high humidity. Containers with large openings without covers will require more frequent watering if the plants require high humidity. Open terrariums are drier and less subject to diseases.

Plants:

Low-growing, dense plants are best for growing in terrariums but large plants can be used and kept small by pruning. Choose a variety of sizes, colors and textures. Keep in mind the amount of light required by the plants and do not combine plants with different light requirements. If you need help selecting plants, ask at local nursery.

Light:

Most plants require light near a window or supplemental artificial light. Direct sunlight on a closed or tall, open container will cause heat buildup that will injure most plants. If you do not have a suitable location, a grow light can be used.

Plants will gradually turn in the direction of the light, so in order to keep the container attractive, it should be rotated occasionally.

Soil:

The soil must be high in organic matter, clean and well-drained. Most bagged potting soils found in stores have been sterilized and are suitable for the terrarium. It is not necessary to add fertilizer because plants in terrariums should not grow rapidly.

Planting the terrarium:

The container should also be sterilized before planting. Wash in hot, soapy water or use a 1:15 bleach solution and rinse well.

Plants should be arranged so that taller plants are toward the back. A low-growing, coarse-textured plant would make a good focal point in the front. Let the children try arranging the plants in different ways so they can decide what looks best to them. Setting them on a surface the same size as the container and trying different arrangements is easier than trying to move them after they are in the terrarium.

Generally, about a quarter of the container will be used for drainage material and soil. Place a one inch layer of sterilized pea gravel or aquarium gravel in the bottom of the container. Next, put a ½ inch layer of horticultural charcoal above the pebbles to keep the soil from developing a sour smell.

Next add a layer of relatively dry soil. It should not be so wet that that it sticks to the sides of the container but moist enough that dust is not stirred up. For most containers, a minimum thickness of 1 ½ inches is necessary to provide sufficient volume.

Before adding plants, check them over to make sure they are disease and insect free. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves. Trim the roots of any plants that have a circling root ball.

Any rocks or wood that will be used for visual interest should be added to the container after the soil. Next place the plants in the container. When planting in a container with a wide opening, use a spoon to scoop out the potting holes. Place each plant so the top of the root ball is level with the top of the soil. I should sit in the soil in a container no lower and no higher than it did in the pot. Use something like the handle end of a wooden cooking spoon to gently tamp the soil down around the plants.

Use a spray bottle to clean the soil that may be sticking to the leaves following the planting procedure. This should be sufficient to settle the soil and provide moisture to the environment. Heavy watering is not necessary.

Mist again the next day, observing the water level at the bottom, which should not exceed a quarter inch. Keep the container uncovered until the leaves are dry and then apply the cover if there is one.

The terrarium should last a long time without needing further care. Now the question is, does it stay at Grandma’s house or go home with the grandchildren.

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I want to build a cold frame to use this spring, but I’m not sure what materials to use. Can you give me some ideas?

Basically, a coldframe is a rectangular box with the back higher than the front, covered with a hinged, transparent roof. It is a protected plant bed with no artificial heat added. The temperature difference between the inside and outside of the frame is generally not more than 5 to 10 degrees. Those degrees can make a big difference!

Standard glass sash for a coldframe is 3 feet by 6 feet. When this is used, the bed should be about 5 feet 8 inches in length by 3 feet. You can find used windows that are excellent for constructing your frame from the recycled building materials store. Adjust the dimensions of your construction according to the size of the glass.

The back wall of the frame (north is best) should be at least 18 inches tall, measuring from the top of the soil. The front wall (south) should be at least 12 inches high to allow room for the plants. The sides of the frame should be cut with a slope from the back to the front of about 1 inch per foot.

The walls of the structure may be constructed of various materials. Brick, masonry blocks or concrete make excellent permanent structures but are more costly than wood. Wood is easy to work with and more flexible if the bed needs to be moved or enlarged. For longest durability, lumber should be treated with a preservative that is not toxic to plants. Lumber that has been CCA pressure treated is suitable for this use. Don’t use wood treated with creosote or pentachlorophenol; accumulation of fumes from these materials in a closed frame can cause plant damage.

One-inch-thick lumber may be used for the frame, but 2-inch has greater durability and insulating qualities. If untreated wood is used, the frame can be painted with a white latex-base paint or white greenhouse paint for added light reflection and protection.

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I have heard that snow can bring extra fertility to a garden. Is this true or is it an “old wives tale”?

It is true. There has been recent research that confirms the presence of nitrogen and other nutrients in snow. It is estimated that snow can deposit between two and twelve pounds of nitrogen per acre. Rain brings nitrogen from the air as well but to a lesser degree.

When the ground is frozen solid much of the snow melts and runs off rather than sinking into the soil. This is why an early or late snow, when the ground is more permeable brings more benefit. In days past when there was an early or late snowfall, farmers would plow the snow under to take advantage of the extra fertilizer provided by Mother Nature.

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I have some Fritillaria bulbs that I did not get planted in the fall. They are getting some roots and the beginning of a leaf shoot on them. Is there a way to save them?

Sounds like these bulbs are excellent candidates to go into a pot and be grown inside for winter enjoyment. First, examine the bulbs and discard any that look like they are starting to rot or have mold on them. Plant the good ones close together between 2 and 4 inches deep in moist potting soil. Keep them in a warm, not hot, area with low light. Keep the soil moist and when the leaves start poking through the soil, move them to a sunny location and watch them grow.

After their blooming in the pot, remove the flower stalks and let the leaves die back. When the leaves have wilted and are easy to pull off, remove them and store the pots in a cool, dark place until fall and plant them in the desired place in the garden as you had intended this year.

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I have more leaves in the fall than I can fit in my compost bins. What else can I do with them?

Dry fall foliage added to a compost mix should be the “brown” two thirds of the 2:1 ratio, with high nitrogen being the other one third.

The remaining leaves can be turned into leaf mold by placing them in a large, dark plastic bag over the winter or longer. The length of time will depend on the type of leaf and the size. The only leaves that do not work well for creating leaf mold are from evergreens and conifers. The longer the leaves are kept in the bag the more they will break down. Find a vacant corner of your lot where the leaves can just sit and do their thing.

After one season you will find that the leaves are beginning to break up and are easily crumbled in your hand. At this stage they can be used to mulch around shrubs, annuals and trees. They are also great for winter cover in the vegetable garden or for garden pathways.

After two years you should find well-rotted leaf mold in the bags. It will be a dark brown crumbly, material that will be difficult to identify as the original leaf. The uses for this product are the same as those mentioned for “young” leaf mold. It can also be used on its own or mixed with equal parts sand and garden compost for a seed growing mix. For a potting mix add some loam or garden soil to the previous ingredients.

To encourage a more rapid rate of breakdown of the leaves, chop up larger leaves with a leaf mulcher. Add water to the leaves if they are dry. Pack the leaves tightly in the bags and poke some small air holes around the sides.

Autumn leaves are rotted down mainly by the slow, cool action of fungi - rather than the quicker acting bacteria that are responsible for composting. This is why autumn leaves in quantity are best recycled separately in the bags, or a leaf mold heap. You may also find you need them in the spring to add to the grass clippings and other “green” material in your compost bin.

After using this bag method of creating leaf mold for a year or two, you may be tempted to go ask your neighbors if you can bag up their leaves as well!

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My friend has a beautiful African violet that has ruffled edges on the petals as well as the leaves. I would love to have a plant myself. Is there a way to get a “start” off her plant?

These plants are wonderful to have in the house in the winter because they bloom almost all year round. It is easy to propagate or start a new plant by leaf cuttings. Break off a stem near the base of the plant and put it in a container of water so that the stem is ¼ to 1 inch down in the water. To accomplish this, you could cover a shallow dish with plastic wrap and poke a hole in it to stick the stem through into the water. This is a good method because there is very little water evaporation to worry about. Another thing to try is to stick the stem into a narrow necked bottle like a wine bottle which will hold the leaf up and let the stem hang down in the water. The cutting may be transplanted to a pot several weeks later after roots appear.

We would like to say thank you to and acknowledge all the WSU Master Gardener volunteer writers and editors who have made this regular column a possibility. The contributors for 2007 were: Mike Federman, Barbara Hallauer, Sara Perry, Gary Bailey, Lucinda Cervantes, Diana Pieti, Jim McLain, Virginia Foley, Sam Hines, Patsy Hollingbery, and Debra Kroon, who also served as column coordinator.

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