Maybe this article should be entitled The January Gardener, because really, there's not much going on in the January garden - at least not much that you can see under that blanket of snow. But the January gardener might be very busy indeed! Read on if you dare. The danger is that your cabin fever will break, your green thumb will heat up, your winter blahs will start to thaw and you will be inspired to get-going-already with some winter projects that will help you be oh-so-ready for spring - which is, after all, just around the corner.
Order your seeds now - If you don't have enough seed catalogs borrow some from a friend or go online. Territorial Seed Company, Pinetree Garden Seeds or Johnny's Selected Seeds are just three out of dozens of great seed companies who will send you out a catalog or take your order over the Internet. Don't overlook the specialty companies like Ronniger's Potato Farm or Filigree (garlic) Farms or Totally Tomatoes (which has interesting tomato varieties like "Black from Tula" or "Box Car W illie") all of which have websites.
Start onions from seed - how's this project for a vault into spring!? Nice stocky onion starts will help produce big onions. Seed twenty to thirty seeds in a six-inch pot filled with seed starting mix. Give them lots of light, a cool temperature, water as needed and fertilize with weak, liquid fish fertilizer. If they get too tall and leggy, trim them back and use trimmings for salad or stir-fry. When the weather warms a little, harden off the whole pot by exposing to outdoor conditions gradually. When you get ready to plant them, dump out the whole pot and carefully separate the individual plants by teasing apart the roots. Starting onions this way protects against transported disease and allows you to try lots of different varieties, not just the ones available as starts at the nurseries.
Start perennials from seed - yarrow, hollyhocks, purple coneflower, dame's rocket, blanket flower, salvia, speedwell, pansies and others germinate readily. Some perennials have tricky germination requirement s having to do with cold, light or scarifying (breaking down the hard seed coating). Don't be afraid to try. Do a little research and experiment. When growing plants indoors be sure to provide lots of light either from sunlight or grow lights and harden them off before planting them outside. It is best to plant young perennials in a "nursery bed" the first year where you can keep track of them and baby them just a little. The next year they can be planted in their permanent home. Many will not bloom until the second year. This is a cheap way of adding perennials to your yard - if you have the patience.
Watch for a break in the weather when you can apply dormant oil spray. A well-timed application will help control over-wintering insect such as aphid eggs and scale. Avoid spraying when temperatures are below freezing, when it is raining or when the wind is blowing. Always read the labels for garden chemicals and follow all instructions.
A second application close to bud break is advisable.Now is a good time to get your lawn mower tuned up and have its blades sharpened. Chances are there will be a shorter wait at the repair shop than during the spring rush when you could be out mowing the lawn. A sharp mower blade cuts the lawn evenly and prevents damage to grass blades.
It's not too late to build a cold frame to use this spring. A glass window or door set atop four bales of straw arranged in a rectangle makes a quick, nicely insulated place to harden off plants and start cold weather veggies and greens like lettuce and broccoli. Provide a way to prop up the top when it's sunny. A little sun on a cold day can warm up a cold frame enough to damage plants unless vented.
Do some pruning while fruit trees are dormant. If you're inexperienced ask a knowledgeable neighbor or friend for advice. Well-pruned trees are easier to spray and maintain. For spring flowering shrubs like forsythia, put off pruning until after flowering.
Purchase a notebook that can serve as a garden journal and begin making notes. This will become an invaluable tool for planning for the future and remembering the past. Write down the names of shrubs and when you planted them. Keep track of how many pounds of tomatoes you harvested from the dozen plants you grew last year. Write down homemade fertilizer recipes and composting tips. Who knows but what it will become a family heirloom.
What is the best way to use
horse manure in the garden?
This is a topic that is sure to get folks excited. Horse manure that has been composted in an area out of the elements is a good fertilizer to use in all areas of your garden. Keep in mind that some key elements, such as nitrogen, potassium and sulphur might be missing since mammals secret those elements through their urine. You might want to mix in some grass clippings or other yard waste to build up these other elements.
There is a debate about whether fresh horse manure is such a wise choice however. This is probably one of the biggest reason gardeners have turned their noses up at using what is most certainly a readily available and free source of fertilizer. We live in an area that is home to many horses and horse farms. If you don't know someone with a horse, some one you do know does know of a person who would give you all the free horse manure you desire simply for the hauling.
Since horses tend to be inefficient "composters" any hay or grass they eat that contains weed seeds provides an opportunity for those seeds to pass right on through the horse in their waste. Using the fresh manure that contains weed seeds would then provide the opportunity for those weeds to sprout and grow in your garden - something I'm confident you would not want to encourage. This is easy to remedy however. Simply compost the fresh manure for a period of time in the same way you would compost other garden waste.
Build yourself a 3 foot wide by 3 foot deep by 3 foot high bin to contain the droppings. Allow it to reach internal temperatures of ~140 degrees Fahrenheit for 3 days, turning as often as necessary to keep the temperature up. This will kill the weed seeds and pathogens. You will need to keep turning the pile so that material on the outside can be moved to the inside of the pile resulting in everything getting well composted.
If your pile smells foul, it has gone anaerobic and you need to turn it right away. A healthy compost pile should smell - well… healthy. You will need to keep the pile moist, like a wet sponge but not so wet it is dripping. Cover the pile with some old cardboard to keep it from drying out or getting too wet and to keep the heat up in the pile.
Are microclimates and
gardening zones the same thing?
Microclimates are areas that differ from the temperature of most surrounding areas. The zone refers to the plant hardiness as to whether a plant species can be cultivated outdoors in a particular location due to the extremes of winter weather and cold. Here in Yakima we tend to be zones 5 and 6. However, with a microclimate you might be able to push the zone edge to a 4 if you are lucky. Plant hardiness is what allows a plant to survive winters in harsh climates. Perennials growing in this zone are considered hardy if they do not die over the winter due to the cold ground temperatures. Most people are familiar with annuals, but perhaps not why they are called annuals. It is simply that in this area plants like petunias, marigolds, fuchsia, etc. are not hardy enough to survive a winter here. We enjoy the bold color and versat ility they offer us, so we put up with the annual purchase of new plants. In a different zone, say a zone 10, these plants would be considered perennials.
An obvious microclimate in your yard would be located on the south side of your house and other structures. The south side warms up faster and stays warmer longer that other places in the yard. Compare this to the north side of your house. Just walking from the north to the south will quickly show you the difference in microclimates.
An easy way to identify microclimates in your yard is to observe your yard in the morning after a heavy frost. Areas that have already warmed up would be warmer microclimates while the opposite would indicate a cold microclimate. Knowing your garden's microclimates and zone will help you become a more successful gardener. You will be able to make wiser choices in the selection and location of your new plants.
There is much hunger in the world. It can be frustrating to hear about hunger in far off places because we feel powerless to feed the children we see on the television screen. Sometimes we send money to charitable organizations but we seldom feel the satisfaction of hands on service.
During the S econd World War, families across the country were encouraged to grow a Victory Garden during a time when goods were in short supply. Some folks still remember those days and if you ask them they will tell you about the memories they have of that patriotic effort. It was the first gardening experience for many young people. It felt satisfying and purposeful. It was a way to be proactive in taking care of themselves, friends and family in need.
Fast forward to today. Times are again hard. All around us there are people who are suffering because of the receding economy. With unemployment numbers rising I think it is safe to say that the need for help in our communities will be greater than ever this year. Is it time to panic? No, it's time to go to work.
What would happen if every gardener in this country dedicated a portion of their vegetable garden as a "Giving Garden"? What if every gardener in the country made it their business to keep the local food bank, homeless shelter or out-of-work neighbor supplied with fresh vegetables and fruit?
As you plan and plant your garden this year, consider a "Giving Garden". It won't cost but for the seeds, fertilizer and lots of good satisfying work. It's a way of getting right to the heart of the need without any middleman taking his cut (except for your little four-year-old grandson who gobbles up strawberries on the way to the basket).
Here are a few tips for success as you get started:
*Involve the whole family. Give everyone their own spot or vegetable to tend. Doing service helps children to get outside of themselves and notice others needs.
* Pick and deliver on the same day - call the food bank or shelter to find out what day they distribute food. If possible pick produce early that morning so it is fresh and wholesome and will keep for several days after it's distributed.
* Pick produce at the peak of quality - pick zucchini when it is eight inches or less, cucumbers when they are young and crisp, peas and corn while they are still sweet and te nder, and green beans while they are crisp and before the seeds develop.
* Keep track of how many pounds of produce you pick and donate. Go for a family record (that shouldn't be hard the first year!). Then you can work on breaking the record next year.
* Keep track of how many plants you planted of what. This will help you with your planning next year.
* Plant things that are universal favorites. Go light on the lima beans and heavy on the lettuce, tomatoes, green beans and corn.
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*Use succession planting techniques to ensure a good supply over time.
* Grow some jack-o-lantern type pumpkins, decorative gourds and lots of extra flowers. A simple bouquet of flowers or a pumpkin to carve for Halloween, are sweet embracing luxuries that can brighten up life.
If you decide to start a "Giving Garden" would you keep in touch with the Master Gardeners and let us know about your experiences? You can send written correspondence to: Master Gardeners, Giving Garden, 104 N. 1st St., Suite 204, Yakima, WA. 98901 or E-mails to: gardener@co.yakima.wa.us.
What to do in the March
Garden
Having these symptoms? You get shaky when you pass a seed display at your favorite store, your heart speeds up when you get a whiff of overturned earth, and you are a bit dizzy when you read your latest nursery catalog?
Well, Master Gardeners have the diagnosis at hand: you are suffering from Spring Fever. And what is the fix? Check out the list below for the remedy to your ailments.
It's time to cut back the ornamental grasses that were so beautiful last winter, and to trim up the perennials that you left for winter interest and bird feed.
And speaking of birds, continue to feed them. There is little left in the wild and these little guys are your friends in the garden munching on many insects. They also need water, both for drinking and bathing.
Take a close look at your trees. We get many calls about trees with
problems. Often a problem has been developing for year s before the homeowner notices, and by then it might be too late to save the tree. Check for injured branches, or holes that can signify borers, aphids, mites and scale.
Did you get the pruning done on your fruit trees and grapes? It is not
too late. For help with these tasks, call 574-1600 for a Master Gardener to guide you.
Start your garden journal today. It doesn't have to be anything fancy,
a theme notebook or calendar will do. Note the temperature of the day and any activities you did that applied to your gardening. Your journal will be invaluable when you look back on it next year. Take some photos, write notes about changes you want to make or new plants to try. Be sure to note w hat variety of vegetable seeds you plant so you know whether to repeat those same varieties next year.
Get the kids out into the garden. Shut off the TV and video games and let them explore the yard. Create a 'finder's list' for them and hand out a prize for the completed list. The list could include finding the first pill bug, locating a bird nest and spotting a praying mantis egg case. Next have the kids create a list of which vegetables they want to grow this year, purchase those seeds and then have them research recipes to use those veggies.
Order or buy locally, your vegetable seeds for this year. Try a new
variety but plant some old trusted friends too. And please buy and
plant a little extra this year so you can=2 0donate to the food banks.
They need extra help this year.
How does your lawn look? Those pink/whitish patches are snow
mold. Simply rake out the dead looking grass and new grass will appear. Rake off leaves, pine needles and debris and put into your compost pile.
Hungry? There is a free lunch offered by the Yakima Area Arboretum. Yes, you heard it right. Simply come to the arboretum with gloves and rakes in hand, donate your time to help spruce up the grounds and lunch will be served. This all takes place on Saturday, March 14th from 10:00-2:00 and Yakima County Master Gardeners will be there. Come join us.
A man came to my door and wanted to cut out the tops of my trees because he says they are a hazard when the wind blows. Should I have this done?
We are always reminded of the reader board at the Yakima Arboretum one spring. It said, "Topping is for Ice Cream" and it is a good slogan to remember.
Ideally we should research what we plant so we put the right plant in the right place. Will the tree grow too large, too wide, or have roots that break sidewalks or get into septic tanks, etc. Unfortunately we inherit many plantings that took place years ago by someone else who didn't think about plants at maturity.
Every spring homeowners are approached about topping trees and our recommendation is always a loud no. Cutting the tops out of trees opens them up to disease and insects, ruins the look of the plant itself, and also promotes more growth so there will be more to deal with later.If a tree in your yard, has become a hazard, it is better to remove it completely and then research to see what a better choice would be for that area.
My lilacs are very old and brushy because they haven't been pruned in years. Is spring the time to do this?
Spring is the time to prune, but only after they have bloomed. If they haven't bloomed, you are cutting off this year's blossoms. It is a rule of thumb that all spring blooming shrubs should be pruned right after bloom so they have time to put on new growth and new buds for the next year's color.
Begin pruning by cutting out a third of the oldest wood and do this near ground level. Once lilacs become large and woody, they are a target for the lilac borer. During the summer if you see a dead branch in your lilacs, follow it down and look for small holes with sawdust around it and simply cut that branch out. Cutting out the 'tree type' wood needs to be done about every three or four years.
Continue pruning out the many suckers that appear each year, leaving a few to replace those large branches you cut out. Stand back and look to see if you are leaving a shrub that is eye pleasing. Do not shear the top off of your plant, but snip only to retain the look you want. Lilacs are a long living plant and will bring you pleasant fragrance for years to come.
I have not had the best luck in finding a service to provide a fertilizer and weed control program for my lawn. They are typically in and out without taking due care for my gardens, sometimes doing harm by dragging their hoses across flower beds or leaving stained spots on my driveway, etc. I need the service, but a prerequisite to that is finding someone that does not injure my property in the process. Any suggestions?
As you interview prospective service providers: (1) Outline your expectations. (2) Ask them to memo your contract so that each time your service date comes up, an outline of the provisions/guidelines you made in entering your agreement, is given to the service tech. (3) Review and update your standards and expectations each time you renew your agreement. (4) Many times the environment/design of your garden space may change mid-term, i.e., you add a garden gate that needs to be kept closed; you have a new pet, etc. Be sure to keep your service provider aware of these changes. (5) Promptly correct your provider if you endure issues that could have/should have been avoided. (6) Equally important, when you have good experience, show recognition.
To-do List for the April Garden
The record cold temperatures of March have left many of us pondering if spring would ever come. However, as each day passes the season seems more respectful of the calendar and with that, the pulse of the garden quickens.
April could easily be defined as a "preparation month." The emphasis of garden activity revolves around th e preparing for the rapidly approaching summer season.Soil preparation - It is hard to overemphasize the importance of good soil preparation. Clean up your garden spaces, remove winter debris, add, fluff and top off existing mulch, spading-in compost to your vegetable garden.
In turning your soil, "less is more" is a good rule to follow, always remembering the complex microbial balance your soil is attempting to achieve. If you choose to use a roto-tiller in your garden, it is generally advised that you keep the number of passes to a minimum.Plant Preparation - It is time to reintroduce those plants held in their winter reserve to their natural environment for the late spring, summer and fall seasons. Bring out those "stored" geraniums, fuchsias, begonias, etc, and encourage their renewal process by placing them in a warm, light filled location for progressively longer periods of time.
Lawn Pr eparation - If you enjoy having a massage or your back scratched, so too does your lawn. Take the time to rake your lawn and through this process raise the nap, remove debris and bring light and life back to your turf. After you have sharpened your mower blade and as you contemplate mowing the first time, remember to adjust your cutting height so no more than 1/3 of the grass length is cut.
Perennial Preparation - If you did not have time to divide your perennials last fall, now is a great time to do it.
Irrigation Preparation - Winter gremlins enjoy testing the integrity of your irrigation system. Take a moment to check and test your system before warm weather returns to the valley and you have many other garden priorities bidding for your time.
Garden Preparation - Minimize disease and pest build up in your vegetable garden through a regimented rotation practice. Notes from last year, regarding your garden layout, are a great help in rebooting the me mory. If you missed maintaining a log on last year's garden, plan to do so this year.
Tree and Shrub Preparation - If your busy winter and spring prevented attending to your trees and shrubs, there is still time. Remove winter damaged branches and prune to allow good light penetration. Wait, however, in the pruning of your rhododendron, forsythia and other spring blooming shrubs and allow them to complete their bloom cycle.Prepare for the negative: "weeds"- Weeds are persistent and enduring residents in our world. A quick start in controlling them will pay huge benefits as the season progresses. If your first line of defense, a weed inhibitive blanket of mulch, needs help, your hoe and hand pulling are great backups for common annual weeds. For perennial weeds such as quackgrass and dandelions the limited and careful application of an herbicide may be in order. Remember, glyphosate based herbicides are non-selective and will basically take out any plant. 2,4-D based herbicides, however, are selective and target broad leaf plants. April is generally considered too late for effective use of a pre-emergent herbicide. Whenever you apply herbicides of any type, be sure to read and follow the label directions closely.
Prepare for the positive: early "cool weather" vegetables. April is the perfect time to plant your "cool weather" vegetables such as lettuce, peas, radishes, spinach and cabbage.
Prepare to share - In you planning, please remember to plant a row for the needy and to share your garden bounty generously.
And finally, prepare to celebrate and relish spring.
I always enjoy the tastes of summer and this year made a resolution to plant heirloom tomatoes. I see nurseries are beginning to offer plants, but I would rather start selected varieties from seed. Can you coach me regarding starting the seed?
Summer indeed offers the opportunity of sweet, juicy tomatoes, sun-warmed to the core and hand-picked moments before eating; a wonderful dream that easily can come true. Bringing your dream to reality will start with good healthy young plants. Here are some tips for starting your seed:
1) Plan to start your seed indoors, 6-8 weeks before the last anticipated frost in your growing area. Sure, starting seeds directly outdoors will produce plants but that approach typically will limit your yield due to a shorter production season.
2) Obtain some seed starting mix from your local garden store. The mix should contain peat moss to help retain water during seed germination.
3) If you are starting several varieties, it is useful to have a separate starting container for each variety. This can be as simple and economical as a ½ gallon cardboard milk containers cut down their length with the ends stapled to hold them together. As you will want to evaluate your varietal choices as the plants produce, start your identification/tracking process as you plant your seeds.
4) Place your planting mix in a bucket or similar container and moisten the mix with water.
5) Fill your containers with approx. 1 ½" inches of your moistened starter mix and distribute seeds over the surface. Cover seeds with ¼" of starting mix and gently firm the surface.
6) Check seed trays every 2-3 days to make sure they are moist. Covering the tray with a loose fitting piece of plastic wrap helps maintain moisture. Typically the seeds will take 10-14 days to germinate. As germination occurs, place your trays either on a sunny window sill or equivalent, or under grow lights. To do well, provide your seedlings 12-16 hours of light each day. If you use natural light, turn your trays daily to keep the seedlings from bending toward the light. If you use grow lights, make sure to keep plants within 6" of the light, otherwise they will become leggy.
7) Once your seedlings are showing a second set of leaves, it is time to allow them their independence of having their own pot. Either plastic or peat pots work well, but peat pots may take extra care to maintain moisture. Fill your pots with mois tened starter mix, create a hole in the in your medium with a pencil and simply insert the seedling into the hole up to the second set of leaves. Gently firm the soil around the seedling and again moisten once you have finished transplanting.
8) Perhaps one to two weeks before you intend to plant your seedlings outside, you will need to harden off the plants, adjusting them to the reality of living a less sheltered life. As you do this, make sure to place your plants in a shaded area the first few days of hardening so they do not get sun-burned. Return your plants to a controlled environment inside each evening. This may seem like a lot of additional work but pays huge dividends in stronger, healthier plants. This "hardening off" usually takes 7-10 days.
What-to-do list for the May Garden
The warm weather is never so welcome as when it comes after a lingering, chilly winter as it has this year. Our gardens are waking up all at once so get ready for the wonderful muscle stretching, sun-on-your back, mind-clearing, food-producing, bright flowers waving in the breeze months of summer gardening!
Pruning - Spring blossoming shrubs are a little late blooming this year because of the cold weather. Enjoy their beauty these next few weeks and then give them a good pruning as soon as they are finished flowering. Once they start putting on new summer growth you will not be able to prune without compromising next years blooms.
Deadhead spring bulbs when they finish blooming. Leave the foliage until it yellows to allow the bulbs to store nourishment for next year's blooms. This is a must even for bulbs you will be digging and storing to replant in the Fall.
Perennials can still be divided or moved if you do it quick before consistent hot weather is here. Replant in new spots in your garden, or share with friends and family. Remember to keep them well watered until they are established.
Plant dahlias, gladiolus and other summer bulbs. Dahlia and gladiolus that you dug up in the fall need to be taken out of storage and examined to make sure they are healthy and firm for replanting. Put dahlia stakes in as you plant the tubers to avoid damaging roots later on. Stagger planting time when planting gladiolus to extend the bloom season.
Plant your vegetable garden now with the exception of warm weather crops such as corn, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, etc. In the upper valley it is better to wait until the end of May or beginning of June for these heat loving plants. If you're determined to get a head start warm your soil with a plastic mulch before planting these starts or seeds, then watch for frost warnings and provide nighttime protection with floating row co vers or Wall-of-Waters.
Feed fall planted garlic. A side dressing of nitrogen rich fertilizer such as cottonseed meal will encourage good spring growth which in turn promotes good clove formation.
Weed, weed, weed! - Those pesky rascals that are so small right now will grow up quickly to torment you later so quickly rough them up while they're little and a some hoeing or rubbing with a gloved hand will do the job. Many annual weeds are busy setting seed right now even though it seems impossibly early. Get them out of your garden quick before they spread their thousands of little seeds everywhere!
Powdery mildew - Now is the time to spray phlox and other susceptible plants with a good fungicide. Early prevention is important for control of powdery mildew.
Set out tender bedding plants after danger of frost. Your starts will be hardier if you take the time to harden the plants off first. This is a process of exposing them to the outdoor environment gradually so they can build up their defenses a little at a time. Set them out for increasing amounts of time each day for a couple weeks. Covering them with floating row cover will help prevent sunburn.
Control aphids when they first appear by washing them off with a spray of water on a regular basis. If you develop a severe problem try a soap-spray product available from your garden center.
As soil warms, mulch your garden beds to save moisture and help prevent weeds.
Turn your compost heap. If the pile is not composting fast enough or hot enough the problem might be too much moisture, not enough moisture or not enough nitrogen. The pile should be moist but not soggy. If the pile seems too wet, turn the drier outside material to the inside as you move it exposing the wetter ingredients to the outside air. If it seems dry, spray a little water on each layer as you turn it. If the moisture seems right the problem could be a lack of nitrogen, which can be added as you turn. Try some fresh grass clippings added to each layer or a commercial nitrogen fertilizer.
I would like to grow hydrangeas. Would you review how to manage the color of the flower, where to place it in my garden and how I should prune it?
Hydrangeas come in many different colors, heights and styles. The Oak Leaf hydrangea, for example, can grow to the height of eight feet. Other varieties typically range 3 to 5 feet in height.
Hydrangeas thrive in filtered light, or, if planted in direct light, where20exposure is limited to morning sun. If your filtered light options are limited, you may wish to consider the Annabel hydrangea as it can tolerate more direct light.Planting your hydrangea in rich, porous soil, you may wish to initially influence the direction of color through the purchase of varieties that are predisposed towards various colors. Nikko Blue, Pink Delight and Red-N-Pretty are three options to consider if you have a color preference. You then can enhance the color through nudging your soil pH. Bluest color is produced in strongly acid soils (below pH 5.5), pink or red in neutral to alkaline soils (pH 7.0 and higher). The flower of your plant can be made (or kept) blue by applying aluminum sulfate to your soil. Reds and pinks are enhanced by liming the soil or through applying super phosphate. This process of manipulating the soil pH must start well ahead of bloom to be effective in impacting your plant.
Many of the best looking hydrangeas aren't pruned at all but you may choose to prune your hydrangea to control its sh ape and size. Generally speaking garden hydrangeas and lacecaps can be made to look "better" by following the rules of selective pruning: First, take out the dead wood. (Be careful as you do this. Hydrangea canes often look hollow and dead when they are not. A cross-section of stem that has some green showing is still alive.) Next, take out a few of the worst rubbing/crossing canes, especially in the center. Finally, cut off canes that are too long or that touch the house or ground. There is also the "Shot Gun Method." Briefly, this means some canes are cut to the ground, some canes are shortened to just above the first bud (these will branch out and grow next year) and some canes are left entirely. Leaving the majority of canes unpruned ensures blooms in the coming season. Generally this pruning is done in the early spring, with tidy-up pruning in the summer.
In the late fall, it is tempting to cut off the fading flower heads. However, it is recommended that you leave the flowers on to protect the buds beneath. Then in early spring, after the danger of severe frost is pa ssed, but before new growth has started, cut off the old flowers. Look for the three or four pairs of buds just beneath the old flower. If cut back to the lowest or second lowest, plumpest set of buds, the shrub will have larger flowers.
How can I introduce my children to gardening?
The reward for working with your children in establishing and caring for a garden is multi-faceted and can provide an enriching experience for the entire family. Here are some suggestions that may help.
Upcoming events at the Arboretum - call - (509) 248-7337 for more information
May 17, 2009 (Sunday) - Bonsai Exhibit , 10 am - 3 pm. Cost: Free, everyone welcome.
May 23, 2009 (Saturday) - Iris Flower & Design Show, Noon to 3 pm. Free.
May 28, 2009 (Thursday) - Audubon Lecture, 7 pm - 9 pm. Cost: Free, everyone welcome.
I want to plant a garden but have so little xtra money, and seeds and irrigation water are so expensive. Do you have some tips for me?
We do have some tips. Don;'t purchase seeds of vegetables that you really don't like, and don't waste space planting something that will produce too much for your family. Consider going in with someone else when you purchase seeds. Splitting a package of carrot seeds will still give you a lot of carrots. Check the local dollar stores which sometimes have seeds that are ten for a dollar. You won't get a lot of choice on varieties but there will be some of the basics. Watch the newspaper for coupons for seed packets at area stores.
Even though you don't have much money it might be a good idea to think about perennials. They can be expenisve to purchase, however, if you have a generous gardener friend or neighbor, many perennials can be grown from divisions or cuttings which will then produce for years. Asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, raspberries, and grapes can all be strarted this way.
There are perennial herbs, too, that can do a lot to flavor your meals and will come back each year. Some of these include sage, chives, oregano and thyme. Many of these perennial herbs can be started from seeds or grown from division.
Irrigation water is expensive, but we can offer some suggestions to help save water. Irrigate early in the morning when it is cool, not during the heat of the day. Use mulch to help keep moisture in. You can use your grass clippings for mulch as long as there is no herbicide on them.
How can I go more 'green' this year in my garden?
What a great question! It is so popular to help save Mother Earth, and each and every one of us can have an impact. Keep thinking about the prefix, 're'' recycle, replace, re-plant, reduce and re-think.
Try to replace some of your lawn with other choices and you will cut down on a lot of water waste. Those choices could be planting a drought tolerant ground cover or converting the new area into a patio.
Replace some of your perennials with native plants or at least those that requrie less water. Consider those that will attract birds, bees and insects into the area. Birds will help with insect pest control and you will be able to avoid using pesticides. Bees and insects will be the pollinators fot the new vegetable garden you will install. You want that new veggie garden so that you do not contribute to the use of so much fossil fuel to haul store produce from distant places.
Get in shape by getting the old push mower and a rake out of the garage and replacing the gas powered lawn mower and leaf blower.
Recycle all your garden waste such as grass clippings, spent flower blooms, and fallen leaves into your compost. This saves landfill space and will benefit your garden as well. Recycle in the garden by using what you have such as used brick for garden paths and used lumber for creating benches.
Trying to have a perfect 'green' yard will take time and we encourage to go slow with this task. Get the whole family involved, including the children. They might be your best teachers.
Is there a foolproof way of
hardening off plant starts? I usually end up forgetting them outside until
they're frozen or sunburned.
Set your alarm and get up with the birds to avoid that middle of the day heat in July. It's a good time to walk around your yard and take stock of what is going on. Check how things are growing and don't forget to look up at your big trees for any problems, and up close at landscape plants for aphids. Mornings are also a good time to do your watering because it gives the plants time to dry off before night time temps set in; Mildew is caused by the humidity around plants and drying off will help.
Raise the blade on your lawn mower so that you do not scalp the crowns during these hot times. Remember to water deep to promote long healthy roots. Daily short periods of water keep the roots close to the surface and can contribute to a buildup of thatch.
Every evening take a leisurely stroll around the garden with a pair of sharp scissors in your hand and deadhead as you go. By cutting off all the spent blooms of both perennials and annuals, you will extend your bloom time.
Get harvesting. It is time for those early radishes, lettuce, and peas and the zucchini is not far behind. Decide the best way to share your wealth from your garden. It might be to put a shoebox full of extra produce at the curb with a FREE sign on it, or deliver to your favorite food bank. To use up all that zucchinis you have, stop by the WSU extension office and pick up the free zucchini handout
Snip some herbs for tonight's dinner and a few more to dry. After picking a 'bouquet' of herbs, slip a rubber band around the stems and hang in a dark area. Remember that cutting herbs will encourage them to keep producing for you. Come join Yakima County Master Gardeners at their demonstration garden on July 18th at 10:00 a.m. for a free class on growing and using herbs. The
garden is located at the Ahtanum Youth Park and parking is free.
Use the last of the rhubarb in your favorite dessert and then let it rest until next spring. Do not cut off those beautiful ferns from your early harvest of asparagus. That top growth will take nutrients down to the crowns and give you a good harvest next spring.
Keep weeding. Get those weeds when they are small and haven't had a chance to set seeds. Use mulch around your plants to help suppress them. An added benefit is that mulch holds in some moisture too.
Spend a Sunday at the Yakima Farmer's Market and enjoy all the beautiful produce, nice selections of plant material, and art for your garden. Make it a point to spend some money for the upcoming week's menu and by doing so you will be supporting local growers. Be sure to stop by the Master Gardener table for answers to all your gardening questions.
What is mesclun and how do I grow it?
Mesclun is just a fancy name for mixed baby salad greens.
Mixes vary so you need to read the ingredients on the seed package.
Mild mixes might contain familiar kinds of lettuce with greens such as purslane an d chervil. Other mixes might have a peppery bite and could include seeds of mustards, red and green chicories and endive. All of them are tasty and have good eye appeal for the plate - and of course they are good for you too.
Mesclun is a spring crop but can also be planted late in July for a fall harvest. Barely cover the seeds and keep them moist until they germinate. When they are four to six inches tall, take scissors and snip leaves about an inch above the soil. Do not cut into the crowns of the plants. By using the cut-and-come-again method, you will get a second and third harvest.
Where do all the weeds come from in my yard and now that they are here, how do I deal with them?
Weeds come from many sources. A plant start from a neighbor, commercial nursery stock, birds and animals, seeds that blow in on the wind -- you might even bring in seeds attached to your socks or shoes.
Whenever we disturb the soil such as rototilling, spading and even weeding, we turn up more weed seeds that have been just waiting in the soil for a spark of light to get them going.
We will probably never eliminate the plants we do not desire but you can get in charge. Here are a few tips.
- Get after them when they are small. It is easier to use a hula hoe and go back and forth to disturb the roots than to wait until they are as high as you are and have set seed.
- Keep in mind that one thick crop pushes out another. This means to fertilize your lawn and get a good watering practice going so weeds are crowded out. This also means planting your veggies close together to create shade between the rows so weeds can't grow well. Keep your perennial beds full. When you leave open spaces it just signals Mother Nature to 'plant' something in that space.
- Use your mower and mow down weeds in large areas that are not currently planted. Set the mower low so that it cuts the crown of the plants which will kill or stunt them.
- Use a thick mulch to smother weeds. A thick layer of bark, straw or grass clippings can work as a great deterrent.
- And do not forget that you do have the option of using an herbicide. Products such as glyphosate work well in large areas, along fence rows and in and around the driveway. Remember that they are non-selective and cannot recognize a good plant from a bad one. Read the label and follow properly for best results.
I planted some bok choy this
year, a long row of it, and it was wonderful but quickly had flowers on it and I
had to pull most of it up for the compost pile. What can I do to get better use
of this good vegetable?
One of the down sides of growing bok choy is that it does tend to bolt at the first sign of stress, and that stress can be that it is too hot, too cold, or too dry.
Here are some tips to help you grow and use bok choy.
I see a mass of white bubbly stuff in the tops of my golden rod and yarrow. What is it? It looks like spit.
That 'bubbly stuff' comes from the nymphs of the spittle bug and of course that is where they get their name. You will usually see this in a leaf node or at the tops of plants.
The spittle bugs are small insects that are related to aphids. As they feed they mix air with fluid excretions but not from their mouths, so technically that sticky, frothy substance is not 'spit'.
They cause little damage but if you are turned off with the appearance you can use a strong spray of water to wash it off. Beneath that mass is a feeding insect and spraying off this protective cover exposes it to predators.
Upcoming Events: Look for the Iris Rhizome Sale on Saturday July 25th from nine a.m. to three p.m. in the Jone's Center at the Yakima Area Arboretum.
What to do in the August Garden
August isn't the busiest month in your flower or vegetable garden, but there are tasks that need tending to. Because of the hot weather we can expect this month-the thermometer will routinely read in the high nineties and even higher from mid-morning to early evening-you need to avoid work during the heat of the day.
Choose to get up early and greet the sun as it rises and work for an hour or so during the early morning coolness, or wait until just before sundown and work in the refreshing cool of the evening. Either way, you will avoid the possibility of getting overheated, sunburned and cranky.The following are some of the garden tasks you may need to take care of this month:
Why do some of my cucumbers
taste bitter?
Cucurbitacin B and Cucurbitacin C are compounds that cause bitterness and are present in all parts of the cucumber plant in varying amounts. However, only occasionally does this bitterness spread from the plant into the cucumber itself. Then it is usually found mainly in the stem end and is generally limited to just under the skin. Cutting off the stem end and paring a thick layer of the skin20off will usually take care of the problem.
Protracted cool weather generally brings more complaints about bitter cucumbers. Research has shown the fertilization, plant spacing or irrigation have small effect on the number of bitter cucumbers. Some of the newer hybrid varieties have less of a tendency to produce bitter fruit.
I love red sweet
peppers, but I never seem to get them to turn red before frost. Have any
suggestions?
Sweet peppers, such as California Wonder, need at least 20 days after they have reached the mature green stage before they turn red. Since peppers come from the tropics and semi-tropics, they don't really start to actively grow until the soil and air temperatures are quite warm.
There are, however, a couple of things you can do to get fully mature red peppers before frost. Walls 'O Water are most commonly used to get tomatoes off to a head start growing before the soil and air have thoroughly warmed. Peppers also get a head start with the assist of these circular plastic tubes filled with water. Another idea is to cover the soil with black plastic sheeting at least two weeks before setting out your peppers. This will warm u p the soil considerably. Using this technique along with Walls 'O Water will speed things up even faster.
This year you can harvest your peppers in the mature green stage and then put them in a paper bag with a ripe apple. The apple will release ethylene, which is a ripening hormone. Keep the closed bag in a cool, dark place. Check every few days and you will find that your peppers will ripen much earlier than if left on the plant to ripen
Can I leave the gladiolus
bulbs in the ground, or do I need to dig them this fall? Any special things I
need to do?
Gladiolus must be dug up every fall and replanted in the spring. After your glads are through blooming, cut off the flower stalk near ground level. However, leave the sword-like leaves. They are needed to take up nutrients and to carry out photosynthesis until they die back later.
Although often called bulbs, what you plant are actually corms. When you dig them this fall, gently lift them using a shovel, spade or garden fork. Be sure you dig far enough away from the plant that you don't destroy or injure your corms, which under good growing conditions will multiply. (The n next spring you will have more corms and more potential glads.) Then cut the flowering stem about an inch above the ground and remove any clinging soil.
After breaking off the old corm from the bottom of the new one, inspect the corms for possible damage or rot. Store your corms in mesh bags, panty hose or in one layer in shallow boxes in a cool, dry place that will not freeze.
You may notice that there are quite a number of tiny corms clinging to the larger ones. Save the ones that are the size of a pea or larger. Plant them next spring in an out-of-the-way area that receives six or more hours of sunlight a day. They can be planted just a few inches apart. They won't likely bloom the next summer, but they should produce corms that will bloom the following year.
Two years ago I cut down a
small elm tree. Last year a bunch of suckers came up. I have continued cutting
them down, but they keep coming up. Help!
To get rid of these saplings, which can grow into a small jungle if left unattended, use a commercial product such as Ortho Weed-b-gone or Lily Miller Lawn Weed Killer. Using a paintbrush, paint the freshly cut stump with one of these undiluted herbicides. The paint job should cover the cambium, which is next to the bark. Wear gloves for your protection. If any new suckers reappear, cut them down and follow the same procedure you used before. Two applications will usually take care of the problem.
Fall with its cooler weather is a particularly good time to plant trees in Central Washington. Their roots will have a chance to get established through the fall and prepare for the stress of next summer's heat.
Some of the following transplanting techniques may seem contradictory to practices suggested by even good nurseries, however extensive research supports these processes taught by the extension educators at Washington State University. By following these suggestions, you will avoid many problems and even save money.
First, choose a species that fits your needs. If you want a tree to shade your home and lawn and if you have the room to splurge on a spectacular specimen, look at the hundreds of suitable large trees available. If you need a smaller tree, keep that in mind. Too many large trees are planted where they simply won't fit-and that results in the ugliness of topped trees or damaged roofs.
Go to the Yakima Area Arboretum to see how hundreds of tree species grow in our environment. The staff there can give you great ideas and tips. Using the scientific names of the species you prefer, search for the particulars of each tree of interest. How tall will it grow, how wide, will it like our hot, dry summers and cold winters?We don't have many disease problems in our area, but learn what the varieties are susceptible to. If they attract aphids or box elder bugs, you might want to look for another variety, especially if y ou want to locate the tree near a patio or driveway. Do the roots grow near the surface and do they tend to buckle sidewalks? If so, don't create an expensive problem that will haunt you in the future. All trees lose their leaves, but some are messy twelve months a year. They might be drop-dead gorgeous, but they would be a terrible choice if you have a pool or pond-or if you simply don't like to rake your lawn from January through December.
You can speed your search by asking advice from a trusted nursery, but it may limit your selection to what that nursery carries. Many people like something a little different, so if you find a great tree you want that is not available at local nurseries, you may have to order it and wait. So plan ahead.
Once you choose your tree and you bring it home, it's important to find just the right spot. Set the pot or burlapped root ba ll where you think the tree should go, then view it from various vantage points. When you have found the spot, dig a hole the height of the root ball and about twice as wide. Remove the container and all burlap and twine. With a hose and your fingers, remove soil from the roots. If the soil is dry, soak the root ball in a basin filled with water to loosen it. Prune excessively long roots and damaged roots. Loosen or prune roots that are growing in a circular manner around the root ball and cover with wet cloth while you do the next step. If possible, this process should be done in the shade and in the evening or on a cool day.
In the center of the hole, form a raised mound. Arrange the roots over the mound then backfill with the native soil. Do not use soil amendments. Water the area thoroughly. If you soaked the ball in a basin of water, use that water first and add additional water to keep the area wet. Add soil as necessary to fill holes. Do not stomp soil, but gently firm soil with your hands. Wait until early spring to fertilize fall planted trees. Tender new growth promoted by fall fertilizers will make your tree susceptible to winter damage. Oftentimes special transplant formulas of nutrients and vitamins are recommended but there is no evidence that they work.
To keep the ground moist, place four inches of mulch around the tree, but not against the bark.
Most trees do not need to be staked. However, in a windy area or for crown-heavy trees provide support by staking trees low and loose for no longer than one year.
For the next year, make sure your tree roots get ample water and a balanced fertilizer as a top dressing around the perimeter of the planting hole. By the next fall, your "perfect" tree will be well on its way to being a healthy, and beautiful, part of your environment.
What to Do in the October
Garden
Shorter days, longer nights, and crisp morning air signal Fall's arrival. The waning daylight hours urge us to make the most out of the final stretch of this season's gardening. So don't put away your work gloves quite yet, and read on for some Fall gardening ideas.
What are cover crops and why would I want to use them in my home garden?
We all know that the foundation of a great garden is healthy, nutrient-rich soil. There are many ways to improve the productivity of your garden's soil, but planting a cover crop in the fall can give you a jump start on spring gardening. Cover crops can add much needed organic matter and nutrients to your soil in lieu of using fertilizers.
Cover crops provide a bunch of side benefits including: capturing nutrients that would be lost during the winter, reducing runoff and soil erosion, suppressing weeds, and supplying nitrogen (legumes only).
Unfortunately, there is no single cover crop that provides all of these benefits, but you can plant several varieties together in the same garden.
There are several varieties of cover crops that are available for the home gardener's use. Varieties suited for the Yakima Valley include cereal rye, spring barley, winter triticale, and winter wheat. Legume (nitrogen fixing) varieties include Austrian winter pea, common vetch, crimson clover, and hairy vetch.
How and where do I use cover crops in my flower or vegetable garden?
Cover crops can be used in either vegetable or flower gardens. They can be planted between rows of harvested corn, in open areas of your flower garden, bloomed out tulip patches, and wherever else you think would be a suitable spot. The key to success is to plant the cover crop in an area that won't be disturbed until the cover crop is f ully grown and tilled under.
For instance, in a vegetable garden you may have multiple varieties of vegetables produced and harvested at different times. Start planting your cover crops first for those vegetables harvested earliest in the season. You could use cover crops such as spring barley, cereal rye, common vetch, crimson clover, or hairy vetch. For those vegetables that are harvested later, just simply add in your cover crop as you go. You may choose to use cover crops such as, cereal rye, crimson clover, common vetch, winter triticale, winter wheat, or Austrian winter pea.
Cover crops require very little maintenance and minimal water, especially during a wet fall and winter. Some cover crops can be planted as early as September and ot hers can be planted well into the fall. Be sure to till cover crops under before they go to seed in the spring.
How do I retain nutrients in the soil once I have built them up with winter cover crops?
Something to ponder over the fall and winter….irrigation practices greatly affect retention of nutrients in the soil. Excess watering not only establishes conditions favorable to growing mold and bacteria, but leaches nutrients beyond the root zone of plants before they can be used. Begin in the spring by only adding the amount of water needed by your plants. Check your soil's moisture by digging a test hole below the depth of your plant's root zone with a shovel to se e the depth of water penetration in your soil. Closely monitor soil moisture depths as you apply water and be sure to only maintain moisture in the plants root zone. This is an easy way to conserve both nutrients and water. One word of caution - plant health and productivity will be compromised if the soil is allowed to dry out too much, resulting in immediate wilting of the plant. Applying the appropriate amount of water will allow you to reap the benefits of the cover crops sown in the fall; you don't want your efforts to go to waste!
What to do in the Garden in November
We look from the beautiful display of fall color in the valley to the clear night sky and we know the frost is upon us. Our gardens are moving into dormancy and it's time to tidy up, protect our plants from possible winter damage and get ready for next year's growing season.
Evergreens need a deep watering before the ground freezes. Some conifer shrubs can be wrapped with a spiral of twine to prevent heavy, wet snow from breaking upright branches.
Rake leaves before they mat up and smother the grass.
Lawns should be mowed and edged one last time.
Shrubby or branching perennials, such as mums and yarrow, need to be cut back. Remove one-third to one-half the length of the stems. Remove any material that is diseased or has completed its life cycle.
Clean out vegetable beds and put vegetative debris that is not diseased on the compost heap. Weeds can be added if they do not have seed heads. Leaving some flowers and their seed heads as food and habitat for birds and small mammals helps with insect control and adds interest to the winter garden.
Mulching prevents soil from alternately freezing and thawing, which can damage roots of half-hardy plants, trees, shrubs and bulbs. Apply a four-to-six-inch layer of loose organic material-leaves, straw, or compost around the base of plants.
Protect roses from winter damage. Prune canes back slightly, removing about one quarter of their length. Tie or wrap canes together with soft, fat string to prevent breakage from wet, heavy snow and ice. After plants have become dormant and cold weather has set in, mound soil or mulch one foot high over the base of plants. Mulching too early can delay dormancy and make plant more susceptible to the cold,
Root crops such a carrots, turnips, and parsnips can be left in the ground. Mulching these helps to allow for harvest into early winter. Some vegetable crops like Brussels sprouts, cabbage and kale are sweeter after frost, so harvest these as long as you can. Chives, rhubarb and asparagus do not need to be mulched for winter protection.Now is the time to divide rhubarb, chives and perennial herbs. Just dig the whole plant, divide with a shovel and replant the sections, watering them well until the ground freezes.
Dig dahlia and gladiola bulbs and store in a cool, dark place over the winter.
Plant crocus, daffodil, tulip, and hyacinth bulbs until the ground freezes. Buy bulbs that have not sprouted and plant immediately in holes of the correct depth, cover with soil and wait for spring's delightful blooms.
Geraniums can be overwintered by digging them up, shaking the dirt from the roots and hanging them upside down in a cool, dark, frost-free location. Once a month during the winter, take them down and soak the roots in water for a couple of hours, discarding any that are overly shriveled or dried out. Shake off excess water and re-hang. You'll have your favorite colors when you replant them again in the spring.
If you planted young trees this year, you may want to paint some white latex paint (thinned with some water) on the lower section of the trunk, about four feet high. This white area reflects the warm south sunlight and prevents the trunk of the tree from warming too much and cracking if it freezes hard at night.
This is the time to gather, organize, clean and repair all your garden tools. Bring in those hoses, wands, and irrigation supplies, too. Hoses make for slippery footing under the snow, and you don't want them to freeze and crack! Make sure your irrigation lines are drained and dry, also.
Don't forget to bring in any house plants you placed outside for the summer and be sure to check them thoroughly for bugs you don't want in your home.
Buy yourself a potted Amaryllis-for a small investment you get a beautiful flowering plant just when flowers seem to be last summer's memory.
As cold weather sets in take some time to walk through your yard, observing your gardens from different vantage points. Make some notes about what's working and what needs to be changed, planted, moved, or evaluated for next year. You'll have several quiet months to research, design, and make plans and decisions for your 2010 garden.
Now that the growing season is over and all of our beds are cleaned up, the plants are mulched, protected and tucked in for the winter, and the irrigation has been blown out, and all of our tools are oiled and hung on their hooks, and the lawn mower and weed eater are winterized and slumbering in the shed - it's time to think back over last years efforts and spend a little time reveling in and feeling gratitude for the tremendous blessings that our gardens bring.
In the garden we function within a system that brings a pure, natural experience. We put our energy into the soil along with our hopes, dreams and a measure of faith that the sun will rise and call the seedling out of the ground, that the rain and snow will provide water, and that the beautiful earth will give sustenance to the seeds we sow.
There is a supreme sweetness in the harvest, whether it be beautiful flowers that please our senses or wholesome sustaining food, when that harvest is full of the energy of the gardener. No rose is so satisfying as the one watched and nurtured from a bud, no lettuce is so crisp and sweet as the leaf that is coaxed from the ground and watered with care.
Life lessons are learned in the garden; patience, diligence, renewal, faithfulness, dependability and hope. Practical knowledge is gained in the garden; when to plant, what to plant, how to feed the soil. And gardening gives us something that is in short supply in our fast-paced world - time to think. We all need time to think and sort out life's issues and challenges. Time in the garden is physically, mentally and spiritually productive.
The generosity of nature teaches us to share with and serve those around us. It is easy to give generously when we reap such a generous harvest. It takes little extra time and energy to plant and tend a few extra plants that will go to homeless shelters or food banks or friends and family that we love. Children learn lessons of gratitude and generosity when they participate in family acts of service.
Gardening can be a relationship building activity. Working together as a family in the garden can reinforce bonds and teach character building principles. Time to talk to and teach our children can be a rare commodity, making time together in the garden priceless. Many an avid gardener recalls being introduced to the joys of gardening by a beloved grandparent, who pressed a few pumpkin seeds into a chubby little hand and then helped them dig a hole. Neighbors become friends while visiting over the garden fence sharing tips and starts.
Then, as if all of these overflowing blessings are not enough, the garden gives to us also the healthy food our bodies need to thrive; vegetables and fruits that sustain us and delight our appetites. What candy has ever been produced that does not hang its simple-sugar head when faced with a raspberry - plump and juicy with a sweet-tart loveliness that makes us close our eyes and smack our lips. All that and anti-oxidants too. Health for our bodies is truly a blessing of the harvest.
Few gardening years pass without challenges. Insects and disease, late frosts, strong winds, hail, early frosts - what gardener has not experienced these to some measure? Every experience whether positive or negative gives us experience and teaches us more about the world and life and ourselves.
The season of Thanksgiving that we celebrate at this time of the year was born in the garden and in the fields. It grew out of the gratitude a group of people felt for the harvest that they knew would sustain them. Today most of us do not have to depend on our gardens to sustain life - but time in the garden will always sustain us in other ways as we engage in its rhythmic, seasonal dance.
Each year it seems there are fewer honeybees in my garden, however, it seems like I am seeing more bumblebees. Are my observations correct? Regardless, how do bumblebees differ from the honeybee?
With the colony collapse disorder (CCD) impacting the honeybee, the ratio of the honeybee vs bumblebee could easily be changing. However, where data do exist, trends of the broad spectrum of the pollinator group, including the bumblebee, are demonstrably downward.
Unlike social honeybees, imported from Europe in the 1600's, the bumblebee is indigenous and approximately 50 species are known in North America. The bumblebee is one of nature's most industrious and generally harmless workers. Unlike the honeybee, that dash about everywhere, the bumblebee is gentle and slow. Round and furry, it trundles around the garden collecting pollen and nectar. There are three kinds of bumblebee, the large queen, the smaller imperfectly formed female worker bee and the tiny male or drone bee. All are seen at different times of the year. Only the queen and the worker bees have a sting. Drones (smaller male bees that hatch in mid-summer) have no sting at all.
Important facts to know about bumblebees include:
While bumblebees and honey bees are the 800 pound gorillas of the pollinator world, pollinators comprise a diversity of wild creatures, from birds and bats to butterflies, moths, beetles, etc. Bees and pollinators are essential to human survival. Without them, we would lose most of our plants and everything else. To produce seeds and reproduce, three-quarters of the world's flowering plant species rely on animal pollinators. The others use the less precise methods of wind or water to transfer pollen. Further, animal-pollinator dependent plants comprise more than two-thirds of the world's crop species, whose fruits and seeds provide more than 30 percent of the foods and beverages we consume. It is generally the opinion of various scientific groups that on an ecosystem level, "losing a pollinator can have a domino effect on countless other species."
Indisputable evidence is presently showing declines in almost
all pollinator groups. A recent National Academy of Science report notes
serious tailspin declines in butterflies, hummingbirds, bats and bumblebees
and honeybees in particular. The jury is still out as to the cause of the
respective declines, however scientists speculate the most likely culprit for
the reduction in the bumblebee population is an exotic disease introduced by
commercially reared bumblebees. Beyond disease, suspected blame for pollinator
declines runs the gamut: habitat loss and fragmentation, introduced species,
pesticides and global warming.
What to do in the December Garden
The monochromatic tones of winter can, and often do, diminish our immediate interest in gardening. However, the vibrant colors of spring lie below the frozen crust and that promise, as always, sustains.
December is normally our valley's coolest and wettest month, use this time to your advantage.
If you purchase a live Christmas tree this year, remember to
keep the "indoor time" for your tree to a minimum (7 - 10 day max.) and always
keep your tree well watered. After Christmas, transition your tree, allowing
it several days in a cool sheltered area, then plant your tree as soon as
convenient, removing the burlap from the root ball and watering
well.
Memo your calendar to either service your lawn mower yourself
or to take the mower to a commercial service technician in January. In either
case, be sure to include a sharp mower blade as part of the service. A January
appointment for your mower should assure it is ready to meet the task of a new
season in a timely manner.
Share, as you can, the spirit of the
season.
Holiday Events at the Yakima Arboretum
Celebrate the Christmas season with a luminaria lit stroll through the Yakima area Arboretum on Friday, December 11th and Saturday, December 12th from 6:00 PM to 9 PM. This is a magical event filled with carols from the bell tower, a candlelight walk through the grounds, hot cider, live music and childrens activities in the Jewett Interpretive Center. The event is free and everyone is welcome.
Then on Saturday, Dec 12th from 10 am to 1 pm, Jheri Ketcham, Arboretum co-executive director, will hold a class on how to turn fresh greens, berries, and cones into an evergreen wreath worthy of your front door. All participants will take a completed project home.
To register for this class or for more information on either of these events contact the Yakima Area Arboretum at 248-7337.
Join Yakima's WSU Master Gardeners
Classes are starting soon for 2010 WSU Master Gardener training. If you are interested in gardening and community service you can become a Master Gardener. Call 509-574-1600 for application information.
"To make a prairie, it takes a clover and one bee." - Emily Dickinson - 1830-1886
I understand the important role pollinators play in our ecosystem. Can you provide some suggestions as to how I can make my yard more pollinator friendly?
The great thing about pollinator conservation is that anyone and everyone can do something to help. In general, all it takes is providing appropriate food and habitat for bees, butterflies and other pollinating species and avoiding the use of pesticides that harm them.
Here are a few suggestions to get started:
To provide pollinators with the best sources of food and to prevent the spread of invasive species, choose as many plants native to our region as possible. One convenient source is Pollinator Partnership's free eco-regional planning guide…. www.pollinator.org .
Select plants that provide an abundance of nectar and pollen. Often many ornamentals have been specifically bred to produce little or none of these essential foods.
Plant a diversity of species so your yard will provide the various pollinators with food source from spring through fall. To attract bats and nocturnal moths, consider night-blooming plants in addition to day-bloomers.
Be a "messy" gardener, i.e. leave some patches of uncultivated soil and brush piles that bees, birds and other animals can use to construct nests. Consider purchasing a bee house for wood-nesting wasps and bees.
During hot, dry periods, provide water in shallow birdbaths or pools where pollinators can easily alight. Some wasps and bees need mud to build their nests, and butterflies like to gather in muddy puddles.
If at all possible, do not use pesticides and encourage your neighbors to reduce their reliance on these chemicals. According to Kimberly Winter, National Wildlife's habitat program director, more pesticides are used in urban areas today than in agricultural regions of the United States.
My neighbor calls it "Goats Head," personally, I have my own name for it. Please provide some guidance in controlling this obnoxious weed.
Puncture Vine (a.k.a. Goat Head, Texas Sandbur, Mexican Sandbur, bull's head, etc.) is a plant designed to survive. Patience will be your key action in controlling this noxious weed. The time period between initial sprouting and when it blooms and starts to form seeds can vary, but usually it is only two to three weeks and the plant will continue to grow and produce seed until it is stopped. While the first freeze will kill the plant, do not wait for that as it will produce an army of seeds during the growing months.
The seed is an amazing product of natural selection. Extremely durable, in the right conditions it can last up to twenty years. Typically, however, three to seven years is the period most of us will be dealing with. Each fruit or burr separates into five separate segments and each segment has two to four seeds inside. To add to the control equation, each of the individual seeds has a varying degree of dormancy, i.e., one portion of the seed may be past its prime, but there will be a couple of others just coming into theirs.
Control of this plant is difficult at best. Diligence and determination are needed to win the fight and the fight will not be won in a season. It typically takes several years to deplete the seed bank in the soil and if you take a season off, you will be back where you started.
A few well timed sprays of a herbicide such as Roundup is one approach to control. However, it is best to pull plants that already have seed. Should you choose to use a herbicide, be sure to read and follow the instructions on the label. Be aware, should you choose the herbicide route, that herbicides such as Roundup normally do not kill the seeds, so you must plan several applications as the seeds sprout.
An alternative is to use a shovel or hoe to sever the stem. Take great care not to shake seeds loose from the green plant and then place the plant in a proper location such as a trash receptacle. If you simply allow the severed plant to dry on the ground, the seed will detach and begin its march to provide as much misery as possible.
Talk to you neighbors and enlist their support in control. An extended, focused and joint effort, will greatly improve your level of success.
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